Should I buy this car advise

1933beer · 01-28-2016, 10:24 PM

Hi I am new to this forum but not new to Toyotas. I have an opportunity to buy a 1987 supra base model. Has 157k miles no rust great interior. Some of the car has been sanded is the hood and fender part of rear bumper. The owner removed the engine about 8 years ago because it had seals leaking. He replaced seals bearings rings and wp. Put it back together. Put it in the car and stopped work.
He has agreed to $650
He has owned the car to 17 years it is in a storage garge . it is rust free.

I am not worried about paint but I am concerned about the enigine. He never got the accessories back on so he never started it. Also worries me about the fuel.

What do you guys think?

I own a 1985 gts Celica cab
1990 Porsche 944s 2 cab
1997 bmw z3
2002 Toyota 4 runner
Owned a 1980 supra back in the day I

I do all my own work so many with a wrench.

1933beer · 01-30-2016, 02:21 AM

Well people are looking at this but no reply I am just lookin for other thoughts.
What are 87 non targa non turbos going for ?
2/3 update. I have decided to buy the car 675 is the agreed price. I would still like information on what these cars go for.
What are the hardest parts to find if I need it.

I am beginning to think this forum may be dead��

bills1988 · 02-06-2016, 07:14 PM

I just saw this 88 Supra on eBay that is in excellent condition compared to the one you are looking at although he is asking $2300. I was interested because I have one exactly like the one he is offering. He even has an excellent walk-around video that shows every blemish, tires, engine, instrumentation, radio, etc. Please visit the site and watch the 10-min video:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121885631546...1546&viewitem=

Bru · 03-12-2016, 03:21 AM

Unless the person is a reputable mechanic with experience on 7M engines, tear the engine down and check every thing yourself against the service manual or have a qualified Toyota mechanic with the proper measurement tools do it. Find a good local machine shop if you need one.

Things to be aware of:
Check the thickness of the head and the block(from the crankshaft bearing saddle to the deck) and compare to the specifications. Toyota allows 0.010" total removed from stock before having to replace it with a shim gasket or a thicker head gasket to get back to stock dimensions, especially with a turbo. You may have to repair some of the exhaust studs with Helicoils. If any of the camshaft caps bolts strip at 14 ft. pounds then the head has been overheated and the metal is soft. Find another head that is in proper condition.

Torque stock head bolts to 72 ft. lbs. unless you're using ARP studs/ nuts then you can go to 90 ft. lbs. I have used a 0.020" shim gasket (silver seal) under a standard head gasket with ARP studs/nuts torqued to 90 pounds with good results. Some people prefer a metal head gaskets but you really have to have polished flat surfaces to do that.

Other things worth checking are
Oil Clearances using plastigauge. (The crankshaft surfaces may need to be polished)
Cylinder bore diameter and taper. (along with piston diameter and oil Clarence difference)
Compression ring end gaps.
Valve lash on the intake and exhaust camshafts.
Piston wrist pin to connecting rod oil clearance.
Torque everything to specification except the head bolts and use ARP torque lubricant and Permatex assembly lube.
Follow the factory manual to set the engine timing with the timing belt and installation of the cam position sensor or distributor.
Where ever copper crush washers are used: the fuel system, turbo oil connection, get new ones from the Toyota dealership. It's a bitch but every time you tighten them down they get harder and seal less easily.
You can check for a fuel leaks without starting the engine by jumpering the fuel pump in the diagnostic block with the key on. (see the service manual)
I have had good results with Permatex Black Ultra silicone for sealing oil pans, water pump housings, the coolant bypass pipe around the block, valve covers, ect.

When you do the work yourself you know what you've got and where the problems are.

1933beer · 06-04-2016, 02:05 AM

Update
Last week I bought the car. In march the guy did not have the title. I said forget it. 2 weeks ago he texts me and says I got the title.

I will need help figuring out where electrical goes on the engine. I have no positive battery cable and I don't think I have a coil. Grubbs my plan is to see if the car runs. The work that the guy did seems good he is older say 50. He seemed knowledgeable. If the car runs then I will retorted the head. If the car won't start I will pull the engine out and tear it down. ( that would be a this fall project). For my son's sake.

01-28-2016, 10:24 PM	#1
1933beer Stock Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: iowa Posts: 3	Should I buy this car advise Hi I am new to this forum but not new to Toyotas. I have an opportunity to buy a 1987 supra base model. Has 157k miles no rust great interior. Some of the car has been sanded is the hood and fender part of rear bumper. The owner removed the engine about 8 years ago because it had seals leaking. He replaced seals bearings rings and wp. Put it back together. Put it in the car and stopped work. He has agreed to $650 He has owned the car to 17 years it is in a storage garge . it is rust free. I am not worried about paint but I am concerned about the enigine. He never got the accessories back on so he never started it. Also worries me about the fuel. What do you guys think? I own a 1985 gts Celica cab 1990 Porsche 944s 2 cab 1997 bmw z3 2002 Toyota 4 runner Owned a 1980 supra back in the day I I do all my own work so many with a wrench.

01-30-2016, 02:21 AM	#2
1933beer Stock Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: iowa Posts: 3	Well people are looking at this but no reply I am just lookin for other thoughts. What are 87 non targa non turbos going for ? 2/3 update. I have decided to buy the car 675 is the agreed price. I would still like information on what these cars go for. What are the hardest parts to find if I need it. I am beginning to think this forum may be dead�� Last edited by 1933beer; 02-04-2016 at 02:58 AM.

02-06-2016, 07:14 PM	#3
bills1988 Intake Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Plano, TX USA Posts: 33	1987-88 supra on eBay. I just saw this 88 Supra on eBay that is in excellent condition compared to the one you are looking at although he is asking $2300. I was interested because I have one exactly like the one he is offering. He even has an excellent walk-around video that shows every blemish, tires, engine, instrumentation, radio, etc. Please visit the site and watch the 10-min video: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121885631546...1546&viewitem= __________________ 1988 MK3 Supra; 7M-GE; Automatic; Sport Roof; Factory Original

03-12-2016, 03:21 AM	#4
Bru Bone Stock w Upgrades ;-) Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 210	Unless the person is a reputable mechanic with experience on 7M engines, tear the engine down and check every thing yourself against the service manual or have a qualified Toyota mechanic with the proper measurement tools do it. Find a good local machine shop if you need one. Things to be aware of: Check the thickness of the head and the block(from the crankshaft bearing saddle to the deck) and compare to the specifications. Toyota allows 0.010" total removed from stock before having to replace it with a shim gasket or a thicker head gasket to get back to stock dimensions, especially with a turbo. You may have to repair some of the exhaust studs with Helicoils. If any of the camshaft caps bolts strip at 14 ft. pounds then the head has been overheated and the metal is soft. Find another head that is in proper condition. Torque stock head bolts to 72 ft. lbs. unless you're using ARP studs/ nuts then you can go to 90 ft. lbs. I have used a 0.020" shim gasket (silver seal) under a standard head gasket with ARP studs/nuts torqued to 90 pounds with good results. Some people prefer a metal head gaskets but you really have to have polished flat surfaces to do that. Other things worth checking are Oil Clearances using plastigauge. (The crankshaft surfaces may need to be polished) Cylinder bore diameter and taper. (along with piston diameter and oil Clarence difference) Compression ring end gaps. Valve lash on the intake and exhaust camshafts. Piston wrist pin to connecting rod oil clearance. Torque everything to specification except the head bolts and use ARP torque lubricant and Permatex assembly lube. Follow the factory manual to set the engine timing with the timing belt and installation of the cam position sensor or distributor. Where ever copper crush washers are used: the fuel system, turbo oil connection, get new ones from the Toyota dealership. It's a bitch but every time you tighten them down they get harder and seal less easily. You can check for a fuel leaks without starting the engine by jumpering the fuel pump in the diagnostic block with the key on. (see the service manual) I have had good results with Permatex Black Ultra silicone for sealing oil pans, water pump housings, the coolant bypass pipe around the block, valve covers, ect. When you do the work yourself you know what you've got and where the problems are. Last edited by Bru; 03-12-2016 at 03:36 AM.

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06-04-2016, 02:05 AM	#5
1933beer Stock Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: iowa Posts: 3	Update Last week I bought the car. In march the guy did not have the title. I said forget it. 2 weeks ago he texts me and says I got the title. I will need help figuring out where electrical goes on the engine. I have no positive battery cable and I don't think I have a coil. Grubbs my plan is to see if the car runs. The work that the guy did seems good he is older say 50. He seemed knowledgeable. If the car runs then I will retorted the head. If the car won't start I will pull the engine out and tear it down. ( that would be a this fall project). For my son's sake.