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#1 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 238
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I'll be taking most of my expierence for this "?" from my 1981 Landcruiser FJ60 but engines all need oil for the same reason, and I do run 20w-50 in my 89' 7MTGE. The Supra owners manual shows ranges of operating temperatures, if your in those ranges you can pick any of those oils. Now lets think about turbos for a second. Spinning a ridiculous RPM on a single shaft that is lubricated with that same engine oil. I think i'd rather not risk the melt down and lost the 3hp or whatever that thicker oil supposedly takes from you. Plus the car will last longer overall.
I base the lasting on the fact that my 81 cruiser has had 20w-50 synth in it since the day it had its first oil change and doesn't burn ANY oil now with no repairs to the engine what so ever. I'll agree it doesn't rev as high but i'll also say it has 200K on it, 200K of hills, sand, and off road use. Thats tough on an engine. Regular air filter cleaning and oil changes at 2500 like the manual says for rought driving saves the engine. You can go 5K between changes but c'mon, you and me both know your not driving that thing like granny on her way to church, at least I know i'm not. Just how I would treat my babies. I'm going to be posting on the forum about redline oils since i'm about to run redline in every oil needing space in my 7MGTE as far as how they perform. Edit: Also as far as synthetic goes. The earth never expected you to put dead dinosaurs in your car. The boys over at R&D (research and development) expected you to put synth in your car. Just a thought. Last edited by Burn N' Up; 10-20-2005 at 01:13 AM. |
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#2 |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bossier City LA
Posts: 556
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Actually the dinosaurs didn't have anything to do with the petroleum oil we use. You hear all sorts of claims about the use of synthetic or not, just like you do with different brands of autos.
If you change your oil every 3000 miles or so and filter, your engine should last a very long time. I think the synthetic is a more pure oil supposedly and won't break down as quickly, but in the every day stop and go world we live in, just changing your oil religously is your best bet, synthetic or not. I have used both in street cars and race cars and all brands of oils. I have never had an oil type failure. I have used the additives with no problems either. The problem is not changing the oil and filter regularly. Sludge builds up with either type and clogs the oil galleries and filter, and then disaster sets in. If you ride in freezing cold weather, use a lower viscosity and just the opposite for warm and hot weather. You could get more technical, but the oils these days are all very good. Just keep it changed. Russ |
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#3 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 78
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All right, thanks for the information thus far.
Now in regards to remaining with it or not, which is my better bet? The chassis has ~300k on it, but the motor and the tranny were swapped out at about ~240k. I'd like to see about moving back to conventional. Russ, you'd mentioned something about using oil with petroleum in it. Could you elaborate on that please?
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Black '87 N/A Auto |
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#4 |
Lexus & 550's
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bossier City LA
Posts: 556
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I just meant that oil from the ground is a petroleum product. The labs make the synthetic, but not sure what all they use and if any of it is part petroleum. I meant things like Slick 50 and Dura Blend and the other additives. The NASCAR guys use the thinnest viscosity they can esp in qualifying to reduce the drag that comes with thicker oils. We can do that too, but our engines have to last a bit longer and don't get changed quite as often.
Hope that clears it up for you a little. Russ |
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