7MGE like-for-like engine swap

yale · 03-06-2018, 12:24 PM

So we just completed swapping out my worn 7MGE for rebuilt short block. Stayed with another 7MGE to keep things simple. Got everything swapped over and the car running. Along the way several items were replaced, because I was there. And added a Pacesetter header with 2.25" pipe to the rear (eliminating the cat).
Replaced the u-joints on the driveshafts and replaced the center bearing. Have to work out a way to tilt the center bearing on the mounts to get the shafts to run perpendicular to the bearing - they currently pass through at a slight angle.
Engine starts up nicely (installed a starter push-button switch to bypass either the neutral safety switch and/or the security system) and idles well. Still need to work with the timing (I have that procedure and that is the first task this morning).
On takeoff she shudders until reaching 10-15 MPH, then everything is smooth as silk. Hoping that is the timing.
I have one vacuum line unidentified that comes off the vacuum rail that runs under the plenum. It is short hose so couldn't reach far. Just blocked it off for now. Anyone with thoughts on that would be appreciated.

yale · 03-06-2018, 11:35 PM

Quick update.....
Timing was fine. The shuddering was due to the replacement center support bearing I used. Wrong one. I will order a replacement, single drive shaft next week.
Car runs great but at idle the RPM bounces from 500-700. Probably due to that vacuum line for which I can't find a home.

yale · 06-13-2018, 10:41 AM

Some updates on the woes encountered with the engine swap.
Replacement driveshaft from ShaftMasters.....best thing since sliced bread! Highly recommend that to anyone. Pulled that heavy split driveshaft out of there and lifted the shiny, light-weight aluminium one into place. Perfect fit.
No vibrations, no noise. Runs down the highway as smooth and quiet as my Volvo XC90.

She has developed a cold start issue. Checked the cold start injector and it appears to working okay (resistance checked, but on the high side). Temp sensor maybe? I haven't been able to see where the CSI gets it's signal. Also seems like the she is starved for fuel when first starting. The fuel pump doesn't start until the engine is spinning, right? Not like newer cars where the pump comes up to pressure with the ignition on, right?

Still idle "hunting" that she does when first starting. Idle bounces between 700-1100 RPM, and will eventually die if left alone. Just a bit of throttle (really just resting your foot on the pedal) is enough to even out the idle. Or turning on the AC.

However, after a sprint down the highway to work there are no idle issues.

Definitely running rich in all situations, cold or warm. Thinking this might be related to the O2 sensor. One improvement I made was to put on a Pacesetter header, which moved the O2 sensor farther down the pipe, right in front of where the catastrophic converter used to be. It sits very high on the pipe, barely extending into the exhaust flow. I got a check engine code early on that the O2 sensor wasn't getting warm enough (don't recall the number), but haven't had another check engine light in the last 3 months. Are there longer O2 sensors that are compatible?

03-06-2018, 12:24 PM	#1
yale Intake Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: CT Posts: 38	7MGE like-for-like engine swap So we just completed swapping out my worn 7MGE for rebuilt short block. Stayed with another 7MGE to keep things simple. Got everything swapped over and the car running. Along the way several items were replaced, because I was there. And added a Pacesetter header with 2.25" pipe to the rear (eliminating the cat). Replaced the u-joints on the driveshafts and replaced the center bearing. Have to work out a way to tilt the center bearing on the mounts to get the shafts to run perpendicular to the bearing - they currently pass through at a slight angle. Engine starts up nicely (installed a starter push-button switch to bypass either the neutral safety switch and/or the security system) and idles well. Still need to work with the timing (I have that procedure and that is the first task this morning). On takeoff she shudders until reaching 10-15 MPH, then everything is smooth as silk. Hoping that is the timing. I have one vacuum line unidentified that comes off the vacuum rail that runs under the plenum. It is short hose so couldn't reach far. Just blocked it off for now. Anyone with thoughts on that would be appreciated.

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03-06-2018, 11:35 PM	#2
yale Intake Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: CT Posts: 38	Quick update..... Timing was fine. The shuddering was due to the replacement center support bearing I used. Wrong one. I will order a replacement, single drive shaft next week. Car runs great but at idle the RPM bounces from 500-700. Probably due to that vacuum line for which I can't find a home.

06-13-2018, 10:41 AM	#3
yale Intake Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: CT Posts: 38	Some updates on the woes encountered with the engine swap. Replacement driveshaft from ShaftMasters.....best thing since sliced bread! Highly recommend that to anyone. Pulled that heavy split driveshaft out of there and lifted the shiny, light-weight aluminium one into place. Perfect fit. No vibrations, no noise. Runs down the highway as smooth and quiet as my Volvo XC90. She has developed a cold start issue. Checked the cold start injector and it appears to working okay (resistance checked, but on the high side). Temp sensor maybe? I haven't been able to see where the CSI gets it's signal. Also seems like the she is starved for fuel when first starting. The fuel pump doesn't start until the engine is spinning, right? Not like newer cars where the pump comes up to pressure with the ignition on, right? Still idle "hunting" that she does when first starting. Idle bounces between 700-1100 RPM, and will eventually die if left alone. Just a bit of throttle (really just resting your foot on the pedal) is enough to even out the idle. Or turning on the AC. However, after a sprint down the highway to work there are no idle issues. Definitely running rich in all situations, cold or warm. Thinking this might be related to the O2 sensor. One improvement I made was to put on a Pacesetter header, which moved the O2 sensor farther down the pipe, right in front of where the catastrophic converter used to be. It sits very high on the pipe, barely extending into the exhaust flow. I got a check engine code early on that the O2 sensor wasn't getting warm enough (don't recall the number), but haven't had another check engine light in the last 3 months. Are there longer O2 sensors that are compatible?