Which is More Difficult to Remove?

Bullz_EyE · 12-17-2005, 04:18 AM

Which is More Difficult to Remove, the turbo or the intake manifold?

I am steadily making progress on my head gasket replacement. So far I've
gotten as far as removing the turbo. Whoa, was that a pain in the ass?!
I can't imagine trying to put the turbo oil-feed line back on.

Anybody
have suggestions on that?

Just an FYI, about half the studs came out of the exhaust manifold when I was removing the nuts.

I also want to remove the crank pulley to replace the main seal, but I'm
scared I won't be able to Torque it back on. I'm assuming there's a special
tool, but I don't know if I'll have it when it comes time to put it back on.
Is there a technique to get proper torque when putting the crank pulley back on?
Can I just put it in gear?

joel w · 12-17-2005, 05:35 AM

ive had my turbo off several times. its not to bad, just try not to bend the oil lines during removal so they dont fight you going back on. i leave them on the turbo.. then its just a matter of getting the lower line with the 2 studs started. the other line with the 2 copper washers can be a bitch..

if the threads pulled out on the exhaust studs, plan on helicoiling them all..may be a good idea even if they havent yet..

intake is pretty easy also, except for the wires, vac lines, and egr..

crank bolts is easy if you know the trick. breaker bar on the ground and bump the key over.... tightening it? , is 180 lbs i think? yes in gear w/ a buddy on break pedal....

Bullz_EyE · 12-17-2005, 08:37 AM

I doubt I could move the 3600lbs car while it has jack stands on the front, by turning the motor over, trying to torque the front crank bolt.

I thought that might be the trick.

As for the oil line, you're saying that I should remove it from the block? And then when I install, I should put the line on the turbo then reattach it to the block?

I bought a rebuilt head, and it has all the studs necessary to bolt everything backup. Whhheeewww.....

joel w · 12-17-2005, 04:44 PM

on the ground or on stands, in gear w/ ebrake on, the cank bolt torqueing will turn the wheels, the ebrake is not strong enough to hold it.... from my experience...

yes disconect turbo lines from the block...the turbo will come off with the lines attatched to the turbo..

and on the studs, it still may be a good idea to heli coil them as they often pull the threads when you tighten the manifold nuts on the studs..

it can be done with the head on with the right tools, but its definately easier off the car..

Bullz_EyE · 12-17-2005, 06:36 PM

Hmmmm, would you happen to know how much shops charge for that?

joel w · 12-17-2005, 06:45 PM

you mean the heli coils? goto the parts store, they sell a kit, make sure you use the correct kit and the correct drill bit? take a stud or nut w/ you? its easy...just put some tape on the drill bit so you dont go too deep as a reference,
no clue on what shops charge, ususally 45-75 per hour.. i did all mine w/ the head on, in about an hr.. but mine were pulled loose or the threads removed with the stud..

12-17-2005, 04:18 AM	#1
Bullz_EyE 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 238	Which is More Difficult to Remove? Which is More Difficult to Remove, the turbo or the intake manifold? I am steadily making progress on my head gasket replacement. So far I've gotten as far as removing the turbo. Whoa, was that a pain in the ass?! I can't imagine trying to put the turbo oil-feed line back on. Anybody have suggestions on that? Just an FYI, about half the studs came out of the exhaust manifold when I was removing the nuts. I also want to remove the crank pulley to replace the main seal, but I'm scared I won't be able to Torque it back on. I'm assuming there's a special tool, but I don't know if I'll have it when it comes time to put it back on. Is there a technique to get proper torque when putting the crank pulley back on? Can I just put it in gear? Last edited by Bullz_EyE; 12-17-2005 at 04:20 AM.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
how do i remove the stereo pannel	mikenm05	Car Audio and Alarms	2	03-22-2012 01:56 PM
engine removal	mizuboi	MKIII Supra	11	06-10-2011 06:25 AM
how to remove tierod	ebang	MKIII Supra	4	02-22-2007 04:26 PM
How can I remove Front Spoiler/Bumper Cover 85-86?	droptopsupra	MKII Supra	4	04-27-2006 12:26 PM
Remove rear bumper????????	interloper393	MKIV Supra	3	11-01-2005 03:11 PM

12-17-2005, 05:35 AM	#2
joel w Lexus & 550's Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: In the shadows Posts: 506	ive had my turbo off several times. its not to bad, just try not to bend the oil lines during removal so they dont fight you going back on. i leave them on the turbo.. then its just a matter of getting the lower line with the 2 studs started. the other line with the 2 copper washers can be a bitch.. if the threads pulled out on the exhaust studs, plan on helicoiling them all..may be a good idea even if they havent yet.. intake is pretty easy also, except for the wires, vac lines, and egr.. crank bolts is easy if you know the trick. breaker bar on the ground and bump the key over.... tightening it? , is 180 lbs i think? yes in gear w/ a buddy on break pedal....

12-17-2005, 08:37 AM	#3
Bullz_EyE 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 238	I doubt I could move the 3600lbs car while it has jack stands on the front, by turning the motor over, trying to torque the front crank bolt. I thought that might be the trick. As for the oil line, you're saying that I should remove it from the block? And then when I install, I should put the line on the turbo then reattach it to the block? I bought a rebuilt head, and it has all the studs necessary to bolt everything backup. Whhheeewww.....

12-17-2005, 04:44 PM	#4
joel w Lexus & 550's Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: In the shadows Posts: 506	on the ground or on stands, in gear w/ ebrake on, the cank bolt torqueing will turn the wheels, the ebrake is not strong enough to hold it.... from my experience... yes disconect turbo lines from the block...the turbo will come off with the lines attatched to the turbo.. and on the studs, it still may be a good idea to heli coil them as they often pull the threads when you tighten the manifold nuts on the studs.. it can be done with the head on with the right tools, but its definately easier off the car..

12-17-2005, 06:36 PM	#5
Bullz_EyE 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 238	Hmmmm, would you happen to know how much shops charge for that?

12-17-2005, 06:45 PM	#6
joel w Lexus & 550's Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: In the shadows Posts: 506	you mean the heli coils? goto the parts store, they sell a kit, make sure you use the correct kit and the correct drill bit? take a stud or nut w/ you? its easy...just put some tape on the drill bit so you dont go too deep as a reference, no clue on what shops charge, ususally 45-75 per hour.. i did all mine w/ the head on, in about an hr.. but mine were pulled loose or the threads removed with the stud..