you can get a rod knock and have the PERFECT amount of oil

i use to have a 69' plymouth sport statelite w/ a fully built 383 rv cams dual quads .30 over and a high volume oil pump then one day while racing on highway 80 i got the car to sideways and i sucked the pan dry of oil when i looked at the oil press gauge and saw it drop so did my heart

good luck and i hope its not a knock :o

You may try retarding the timing a few degrees to see if that helps.

how would that help? i think that would hurt it causing, detonation early?

Actually, a friend of mine (Shaeff) and I were talking about this. He said that he got it without the oil being low.

Another guy I chatted with got it also and his oil was also not low but from a bad build.
I have heard of many cases of rod knock where there was plenty of oil in the crankcase, but the results were still the same.

You know I somehow got it in my head when I first got a car that when the oil gets dark to a certain point, that is a good time to change it. I guess I thought of the very dark characteristic as being carbon.
I guess I always assumed that the degree of how dark the oil is would determine how much carbon and blowby got into the oil.
So I just try to keep it from getting dark, more or less.
Usually on older cars, the oil change interval would be less (according to my logic) because of the sealing of the combustion chamber and allowing for more carbon to get to the oil.

Well either way, I like to keep it from getting too dark, and sometimes 3000 miles would be too long because the oil would be too black for me.



As far as knowing if it is rod knock:
I have not done extensive testing by any means on this, but only reciting what I have heard:
If you remove the spark plug wire to the cylinder that has the knock, it would quiet the knock down. So if you go through the wires and can find that removing one of them quiets things, you have a major operation on your hands.

Having rod knock means that you need to replace the rod because the indentation for the bearings’ tangs would be damaged. And I sell rods by the piece dirt cheap for folks in need due to knocking.
When people use the same damaged rod....that is a huge no no.

quote from tony...
If you remove the spark plug wire to the cylinder that has the knock, it would quiet the knock down. So if you go through the wires and can find that removing one of them quiets things, you have a major operation on your hands.

True....I look for rod knock by letting it idle, then raise the R's up to about 1500 and back and forth it to 1000 to 1500 to 1000 to 1500. You'll hear it if it is a rod.

Poor 18 year old girl let her oil get all gone last month. Car died in intersection, was towed in. 5 qts added. TOO LATE !!!

As far as retarding the timing goes it may be a long shot but the knock sensor detects knock and retards the timing. WHen the knock sensor malfunctions it will throw a check engine light and retard the timing 10 degrees. If your knock sensor is fine and you still get a knock then retarding the timing probably won't help. You might have to dig into the block to fix it.

Like I said earlier, rod knock=engine rebuild. Nothing else will help!

Russ

thanks for all the input guys, i appreciate it a lot.

oddly enough, I havent heard anything from the engine in a day or two since I posted my problem. kinda odd for it to not be there anymore. but I am definetly keeping an ear out for the noise.

did you try checking the crank pulley?

just curious ;)

are you sure it a rod knock and not pinging?