please help me diagnose these three problems!

suprra_girl · 01-06-2006, 09:30 PM

bullz eye you hit the bulls eye

vacuum leak.. get carby cleaner or whatever you call it over there and spray it around all your air pipes.. when your idle changes rpm theres your leak

never had the "stuck on full beam" before so i guess the switches have dirty connections.. try replacing it

never counted the teeth on the timing belt before so can't answer that one

do you have a light on the far left on? looks like a birdcage, roman building etc?
check your coolant level

kikwear002 · 01-07-2006, 03:43 AM

im thinking your cooling problem is the fan clutch, is the fan real easy to turn when the car is hot?

stumpjumper · 01-07-2006, 09:19 AM

Check your TPS for the unstable idle speed. Happened in my pickup and it solved the problem.

Maybe get your radiator pressure tested and cleaned. YOu aren't having to give it coolant periodically are you?

As long as it's not overheating at speed I'd say it's safe to drive.

TONY! · 01-07-2006, 07:14 PM

You know for the teeth of the timing belt, I thought there was only one belt for the 7M motor/s...?
On my 7M-GTE motor, I have a 159 tooth timing belt.
If someone can confirm they are the same as the N/A models, then it would be 159.

I would be interested in knowing if N/A's have different belts than Turbos.

Edit: I would be very cautious of a heating problem. Overheating can crack blocks (seen it happen on a 7M) and can warp the head too.

If you are on a road and you have a temp spike, it may be so fast and you may not even notice, while the needle could be beyond where the gauge reads or intended to even measure.

mrnickleye · 01-08-2006, 04:22 AM

This reminds me to let you know. BEWARE !!!

The temp sending unit is located on the thermostat housing. It is one of the highest points on the engine with coolant. If your coolant level drops below the sender, your gauge will not raise up, because it needs coolant touching it to send an accurate signal to the gauge.

Your gauge will usually drop down a bit, and make you think your engine is actually running cooler.

So learn your car, and know where your gauge normally operates at. Look at it often when you drive.

And make sure your radiator cap holds 13lbs, they do get weak as the years go by. ( I almost lost a freshly rebuilt motor in my '65 Mustang due to a cap that was supposed to be 14lbs, but only held 7lbs).

All of the above happened to the Mustang.

01-06-2006, 09:30 PM	#1
suprra_girl 7M POWAH! ;) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Zealand Posts: 2,312	bullz eye you hit the bulls eye vacuum leak.. get carby cleaner or whatever you call it over there and spray it around all your air pipes.. when your idle changes rpm theres your leak never had the "stuck on full beam" before so i guess the switches have dirty connections.. try replacing it never counted the teeth on the timing belt before so can't answer that one do you have a light on the far left on? looks like a birdcage, roman building etc? check your coolant level __________________ Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first!

01-07-2006, 07:14 PM	#4
TONY! 12psi boost Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Troy, NY 12180 Posts: 353	You know for the teeth of the timing belt, I thought there was only one belt for the 7M motor/s...? On my 7M-GTE motor, I have a 159 tooth timing belt. If someone can confirm they are the same as the N/A models, then it would be 159. I would be interested in knowing if N/A's have different belts than Turbos. Edit: I would be very cautious of a heating problem. Overheating can crack blocks (seen it happen on a 7M) and can warp the head too. If you are on a road and you have a temp spike, it may be so fast and you may not even notice, while the needle could be beyond where the gauge reads or intended to even measure. Last edited by TONY!; 01-07-2006 at 07:21 PM.

01-08-2006, 04:22 AM	#5
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	No water, no gauge reading This reminds me to let you know. BEWARE !!! The temp sending unit is located on the thermostat housing. It is one of the highest points on the engine with coolant. If your coolant level drops below the sender, your gauge will not raise up, because it needs coolant touching it to send an accurate signal to the gauge. Your gauge will usually drop down a bit, and make you think your engine is actually running cooler. So learn your car, and know where your gauge normally operates at. Look at it often when you drive. And make sure your radiator cap holds 13lbs, they do get weak as the years go by. ( I almost lost a freshly rebuilt motor in my '65 Mustang due to a cap that was supposed to be 14lbs, but only held 7lbs). All of the above happened to the Mustang. __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08.

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01-07-2006, 03:43 AM	#2
kikwear002 Intake Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 30	im thinking your cooling problem is the fan clutch, is the fan real easy to turn when the car is hot?

01-07-2006, 09:19 AM	#3
stumpjumper 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 74	Check your TPS for the unstable idle speed. Happened in my pickup and it solved the problem. Maybe get your radiator pressure tested and cleaned. YOu aren't having to give it coolant periodically are you? As long as it's not overheating at speed I'd say it's safe to drive.