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this was a non abs type too.. perhaps that was partially the problem
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well if your just replacing the break 'pads' then you can get them all at your local parts store for under 100 bucks. then it's as simple as they said, you take off the wheel, loosen the lower caliper bolt, twist up, remove old pads, depress caliper with c clamp or channel locks, might want to release the bleeder screw, put new pads in, place over rotor, tighten caliper bolt, then test them bad boys.
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it's not always that easy.......I removed the wheel and the lower caliper bolt...but the caliper would not budge (slide up)...seems that the top bolt that is supposed to swivel was seized up...I had to hammer the caliper up and take the whole assembly off...then again hammer the caliper off the part the holds the pads on the rotors...grease all parts and put back together...( oh yeah had to get new top caliper bolts cuz the hammering bent the old ones)..this was for both sides...now i had to bleed them...well the bleeder screws were rusted to hell and both broke off...removed all parts again and drilled off the broken bleeder screws...made sure the thread were fine...one was good and tapped the other. I ordered new bleeder screws and will be back at it again tonight...
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man that must have been one dirty brake system, if all those things were seized and breaking, that sucks, well looks like your handling it just fine by replacing all neccessary things. good luck.
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yeah it is something alright!!...it is going to be three afternoons with a total of 15hours and hopefully I can get the 2 front ones done....then it is time for the back...lol....I just got this car in February it was bought as is so alot of work is needed
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I replaced almost everything on my car with no lift and it took me like 10 hours... Also NEVER BUY THE 10mm Flare wrench from NAPA ITs shitty... I found that out the hard way... part of my gas tank shield is missing |
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