02-22-2006, 05:12 PM | #1 |
Stock
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: South Gate, CA
Posts: 14
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need help replacing 89 supra front and rear brake pads
can someone please give me info on how 2 replace my brake pads.it probably sounds stupid but im only 18 and i want 2 learn how to do all the maintnance on my car myself. thank you.
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02-22-2006, 07:28 PM | #2 |
12psi boost
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Troy, NY 12180
Posts: 353
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Well, that is explained in the TSRM:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/librar.../br/BR_01.html Off the top of my head... First crack the lugs loose Jack the car Take the wheel off For the front--remove the brake hose from where it is mounted (I think it is a 10mm?) Unbolt the the lower part of the caliper from the bracket Lift the caliper up and then slide if off Remove brake pads Apply Brake Quiet to the backside of the pads, NOT the friction side (this keeps them from squeeling) Insert pads The rest is the reverse of taking them off. At least that is one version from memory...
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02-23-2006, 12:34 AM | #3 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mojave Desert, Calif.
Posts: 1,705
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And a little more.
Also, before putting the caliper back down on the new pads, you will have to use some very big channel lock pliers (or a big 'c' clamp) to squeeze the caliper piston all the way in.
IMPORTANT.... You should crack open the air bleed screw to do this, to let the fluid release out so the piston will go in. The reason for this is to NOT force the fluid back up the line, which may send debri into the antilock brake solenoids, and/or master cylinder. NOTE.... Also, do not ever let the caliper hang by the flex line. It can crack the inside of it, and cause a NO brakes situation (and/or leak). If you ever have the caliper all the way unbolted, use a coat hanger to wire it up on the chassis so you don't damage the line. Note...me, I've only done 500+ brake jobs. Also....for nice hands, better hours, more $$, ...become a doctor or lawyer (like Waylon Jennings said, "mommas, don't let your babies grow up to be cowboys, let 'em be Drs. and lawyers and such".) Its too late for me, I'm a cowboy !
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Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. Last edited by mrnickleye; 02-23-2006 at 12:47 AM. |
02-23-2006, 12:51 AM | #4 |
7M POWAH! ;)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2,312
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ohhhhhhhh so you mean when i took my hubs apart etc and just let me calipers hang around that's a bad thing? LOL
well they don't leak yet guess it's an excuse to get the pretty braided lines then i never gave it a thought about backing in the cylinder with the bleed nipple cracked, my poor abs lol heh we all learn something everyday
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Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first! |
02-23-2006, 02:05 AM | #5 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mojave Desert, Calif.
Posts: 1,705
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ABS cars should be xtra careful
I have ABS. It works too, cause its come on a few times when I had to stop quick on a bit of a slippery surface.
I pray I never have a problem with it. Diagnosing the fault, and then pinpointing the exact part needed can be very time consuming, and just plain PITA. And possibly very expensive. I like everything to work as it was designed, but in case I have an ABS problem, and it costs alot to fix, I'll probably unplug it. The brakes will work like a car that didn't come with ABS, so safety is still good.
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Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. |
02-23-2006, 02:58 AM | #6 |
Stock
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 16
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How much exactly is a full brake job? and are parts easy to come by?
thnx |
02-23-2006, 03:01 AM | #7 |
500whp yet?
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Plantation, Fl.
Posts: 1,052
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Parts are easy. I payed about 400 for plain brembo rotors, calipers, pads, brake lines (rubber), and a master cylinder from a junkyard. Just for the front tho. Haven't done the rears. Sears wanted 880 to get the parts and install everything. Rip off like crazy so i took it into my own hands.
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05-22-2007, 08:15 PM | #8 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Canada
Posts: 99
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""Off the top of my head...
First crack the lugs loose Jack the car Take the wheel off For the front--remove the brake hose from where it is mounted (I think it is a 10mm?) Unbolt the the lower part of the caliper from the bracket Lift the caliper up and then slide if off Remove brake pads Apply Brake Quiet to the backside of the pads, NOT the friction side (this keeps them from squeeling) Insert pads The rest is the reverse of taking them off. At least that is one version from memory""... Ok I am trying to change the brake pads and I got the hose bracket bolts off and the caliper bolt off the front but the caliper will not come off...I dont want to pull too hard and rip the hose....how do I get it off??
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1987 N/A Targa 5 speed no mods as yet |
05-23-2007, 01:44 AM | #9 |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mojave Desert, Calif.
Posts: 1,705
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If you are JUST changing the pads, you just take the bottom bolt out, and swing the caliper up.
If you are gonna remove the rotor, you then have to take the 2 bolts out that hold the caliper mount bracket.
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Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. |
05-24-2007, 02:27 PM | #10 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 63
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I bought loaded calipers instead of trying to redo all the cylinders. I found something funny. You can accdentally (by not readint the big 'r' and 'l' on the caliper) put them on upside down in the front.
Needless tosay it took me many days to figure itout. I'll never under estimate my own stupidity again.
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Its broke, it could be anything, and cost of repairs will greatly exceed the value of the car |
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