Rod knock??
 

i was thinking about buying an MKIII supra.. and the guy who was going to sell it to me said its perfectly fine but it has rod knock. i was just wondering what is rod knock, is it hard to fix and how do you fix it?? thanks.. if it requires alot of money, what kind of stuff do i need to buy to fix it??

Rod knock is not perfectly fine. How much is he sellin it for? And instead of tryin to fix it, just get a JDM 7M-GTE.

I would take that car in a heartbeat if a spun bearing was the only problem with it and if the chassis was good and rust free.


As far as spun bearings (aka rod knock), check my posts out (posts 4 & 6).

http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ead.php?t=3461

rod knock
 

can the car be run, even tho it has rod knock? the guy was gonna sell it to me for $800 and the body is in excellent condition, its 5 speed and turbo'd..

Driving a car that has a spun bearing is a degree or two worse than driving a car with no oil in it...if not more damaging...you will have metal shavings all over in your oil supply. Metal shavings in the oil supply is not a good thing.


Just the 5 speed part are worth $500-600.
I sold my 5 speed conversion parts for just over $500.
I suppuse it may be harder for you to sell part though since you are on an island...

It is a deal, but may be only a deal for a mechanic or a skilled fellow, or one that can manage others to do a motor swap/engine repair.

In this area, a good chassis with no rust is a very rare find!

How much is a 7MGTE?

thnx

All kinds of 7M-GTE's: all apart, all apart but inspected and cleaned and good (what I am selling :)), old and worn, JDM lower mileage ones, recently built, etc...

This link has some more info on pricing:
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...ead.php?t=3552

Rod Knock
 

I Should Be Getting My Car Back Today . .. I Had A Rod Knock Also My Car Was Drivable Besides The Loud Ass Sledge Hamer Noise Coming From The Engine =) H E He Well I Got A Mech Install Crank Kit New Block And I Was Set . . . .=) I Saw The Old Block Some Parts Werent Even Working He Said Maybe 1 Or 2 Rds Of The Engine Was Not Working .....

Well I Paid A $800 For The Services That Includes Part And All This Other Shit New Clutch N Stuff

If you are talking about just driving it so you can get it to a mechanic and it still runs then I would do it. Provided you don't push the engine and make sure the oil level is up with some 50 wt oil. You already have metal everywhere in the engine so I wouldn't worry about that part. It will all be cleaned when you have it rebuilt. You might want to replace the oil filter while you are at it.

Again, this is only to get you to a place to fix the engine, NOT for normal driving around at all. You should trailor it, but if you have to drive it then go slow. You just don't want that rod knock to break the connecting rod and then put a hole in the side of the block. Worse case with good block is new crank, rods and pistons, but many times and machine shop can just grind the crank and save that. It will probably have to be bored out so new pistons and rings, but even the connecting rod can be saved if it hasn't turned blue do to heat.

It is all worth it if the rest of the car is in pretty good shape. The engine should last a very long time after rebuild if the water and oil are kept up with.

Let us know how it goes.

Russ