7MGTE and 7MGE engine blocks ??????????? - Page 2

rnoswal · 03-09-2006, 06:42 AM

I think there are differences, like 2 knock sensors, boost sensors and I think an even different air flow meter. I know my N/A and turbo 87 models have different afm's. Just to name a few. I know there are more in depth postings here somewhere.

Russ

Takahashi_46 · 03-09-2006, 06:45 AM

Just FYI the reason i posted the tread is because i have a black 91 MKIII N/A and i was rebuilding the motor when my house got flooded out (I only had the car 2 weeks and the valve stem broke i was told it was due to overheating thats why the rebuild). The water was half way up my door and my interior is messed up. so i was looking for another shell, i found one for 1500 its a 91 turbo MKIII but the guy broke one of his piston rods. So i was asking about the blocks. what do you guys think about buying his shell? the car is in great shape just the block is messed up. help about this much appreciated. thanks

Takahashi_46 · 03-09-2006, 06:46 AM

So russ you have both a turbo and non turbo. what would you recammend i do. about this situation

rnoswal · 03-09-2006, 03:51 PM

IF the turbo block didn't receive any internal damage then I would just go with that package, car and all. Pull the engine and take it apart. If you aren't qualified to make sure that engine is sound enough for a rebuild then let a shop make that determination. If a rod broke, then to me that means it probably spun a bearing and got hot and snapped the rod. Usually the broken part or parts cause the damage from beating around, like a hole or cracked block. If the block is salvagable then get it rebuilt or have the machine shop machine the parts and rebuild it yourself.

Get ARP rod bolts and unless the cylinders are new or almost new, get it bored and deck the block and mill the head some to make sure they are perfectly flat, then DEFINATELY go with a metal head gasket and ARP head studs. With those things done you can make some serious and reliable horsepower.

Check out both heads. See which one has the best looking water jackets/pockets under the head. They are both the same except the cam profiles are a little different. Also look at the cam journals and see which one has the best looking journals. This is a weak spot as far as having cam journals that are clean and having a cam bearing surface that is not etched. If they are both good then go with the turbo. If the N/A is better then swap the cams and use it.

I know there is more but go with these things for a starter.

Russ

Isphius · 03-09-2006, 05:13 PM

the wiring harness and ecu are different. there shouldnt be any problem usign the n/a block at low boost...as long as you get an oil cooler. ive also seen seperate oil coolers/tanks for superchargers, maybe you could use one of those? it comes with lines a cooler and a pump. that way you never even need to tap into the block or heat up the engine oil. also the lower compression pistons help a lot to prevent detonation. about 8:1 would be perfect if you can find those. Im sure the motor doesnt have an oiling problem, my motor has 186k miles on it and it still has about 28-30 psi of oil pressure once its warm. lol.

rnoswal · 03-10-2006, 08:12 AM

You are right about the oiling systems in the engines, they are good. The thing with the oil squirters in the turbo engine is that they are used for cooling the pistons even more than the oil holes in the rods. The cooler and the lines help keep the oil cooler ever so slightly and really are there to help transfer some of the heat from the pistons under long boosts or hard boosts.

Use a synthetic oil in the engine and that will help too. I try to use the old 10 psi per 1000 rpms guage with oil pressures. Everyday driver cars usually don't quite make it, but should be close. A manual guage is best for keeping track of that.

Suprra girl told of an N/A with a turbo and stock N/A compression. Just keep the max boost down a little more. Instead of 15, go for 8. The N/A revs up so much quicker because of the compresion, but I just don't know if the stock N/A pistons can handle the abuse. Maybe a quality aftermarket piston, but most go for lower initial compression, but it is not a rule. More compression equals more power, just watch for detonation and use very good fuel and make sure your knock sensors are working. That is why the turbo engine has 2 of them and the N/A only has 1.

Russ

Takahashi_46 · 03-11-2006, 04:43 PM

So since the turbo block more oil valves what do people do that do bolt on turbos to there n/a blocks? how do they get more oil cooling? Also one of you guys said that both n/a and turbo motors have the oil squirters just one hase more than the other?

03-09-2006, 05:13 PM	#15
Isphius 500whp yet? Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Long branch, NJ Posts: 1,006	the wiring harness and ecu are different. there shouldnt be any problem usign the n/a block at low boost...as long as you get an oil cooler. ive also seen seperate oil coolers/tanks for superchargers, maybe you could use one of those? it comes with lines a cooler and a pump. that way you never even need to tap into the block or heat up the engine oil. also the lower compression pistons help a lot to prevent detonation. about 8:1 would be perfect if you can find those. Im sure the motor doesnt have an oiling problem, my motor has 186k miles on it and it still has about 28-30 psi of oil pressure once its warm. lol. __________________ Yay the supra assistant is gone!!! WEEE!!

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03-09-2006, 06:42 AM	#11
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	I think there are differences, like 2 knock sensors, boost sensors and I think an even different air flow meter. I know my N/A and turbo 87 models have different afm's. Just to name a few. I know there are more in depth postings here somewhere. Russ

03-09-2006, 06:45 AM	#12
Takahashi_46 Stock Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Honolulu,Hawaii Posts: 21	Just FYI the reason i posted the tread is because i have a black 91 MKIII N/A and i was rebuilding the motor when my house got flooded out (I only had the car 2 weeks and the valve stem broke i was told it was due to overheating thats why the rebuild). The water was half way up my door and my interior is messed up. so i was looking for another shell, i found one for 1500 its a 91 turbo MKIII but the guy broke one of his piston rods. So i was asking about the blocks. what do you guys think about buying his shell? the car is in great shape just the block is messed up. help about this much appreciated. thanks

03-09-2006, 06:46 AM	#13
Takahashi_46 Stock Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Honolulu,Hawaii Posts: 21	So russ you have both a turbo and non turbo. what would you recammend i do. about this situation

03-09-2006, 03:51 PM	#14
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	IF the turbo block didn't receive any internal damage then I would just go with that package, car and all. Pull the engine and take it apart. If you aren't qualified to make sure that engine is sound enough for a rebuild then let a shop make that determination. If a rod broke, then to me that means it probably spun a bearing and got hot and snapped the rod. Usually the broken part or parts cause the damage from beating around, like a hole or cracked block. If the block is salvagable then get it rebuilt or have the machine shop machine the parts and rebuild it yourself. Get ARP rod bolts and unless the cylinders are new or almost new, get it bored and deck the block and mill the head some to make sure they are perfectly flat, then DEFINATELY go with a metal head gasket and ARP head studs. With those things done you can make some serious and reliable horsepower. Check out both heads. See which one has the best looking water jackets/pockets under the head. They are both the same except the cam profiles are a little different. Also look at the cam journals and see which one has the best looking journals. This is a weak spot as far as having cam journals that are clean and having a cam bearing surface that is not etched. If they are both good then go with the turbo. If the N/A is better then swap the cams and use it. I know there is more but go with these things for a starter. Russ

03-10-2006, 08:12 AM	#16
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	You are right about the oiling systems in the engines, they are good. The thing with the oil squirters in the turbo engine is that they are used for cooling the pistons even more than the oil holes in the rods. The cooler and the lines help keep the oil cooler ever so slightly and really are there to help transfer some of the heat from the pistons under long boosts or hard boosts. Use a synthetic oil in the engine and that will help too. I try to use the old 10 psi per 1000 rpms guage with oil pressures. Everyday driver cars usually don't quite make it, but should be close. A manual guage is best for keeping track of that. Suprra girl told of an N/A with a turbo and stock N/A compression. Just keep the max boost down a little more. Instead of 15, go for 8. The N/A revs up so much quicker because of the compresion, but I just don't know if the stock N/A pistons can handle the abuse. Maybe a quality aftermarket piston, but most go for lower initial compression, but it is not a rule. More compression equals more power, just watch for detonation and use very good fuel and make sure your knock sensors are working. That is why the turbo engine has 2 of them and the N/A only has 1. Russ

03-11-2006, 04:43 PM	#17
Takahashi_46 Stock Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Honolulu,Hawaii Posts: 21	So since the turbo block more oil valves what do people do that do bolt on turbos to there n/a blocks? how do they get more oil cooling? Also one of you guys said that both n/a and turbo motors have the oil squirters just one hase more than the other?