Balancer Removal Tip
 

I asked a question similar to this one before, though this time, the circumstance is different.

I am looking to remove the harmonic balancer off of the block.

This time, however, there is a twist. This is on a freestanding engine on a pallet. I'm trying to figure out how to immobilize the engine so I can actually get some torque on the bolt itself. Someone pointed out to me that I could try and have someone hold the flywheel in place and get some leverage on the main bolt.

I don't have an impact at my disposal, nor do I have the SST that is specifically designed for the job. I just need that one bolt off. Getting the balancer itself off is the easy part, I have the tool for that.

Suggestions?

remove the head. take the valves out of one cylinder. place a good size block of wood in that one cylinder with the missing valves. install the head back on. the block of wood will stop the crank from turning so you can break that bolt free. or maybe the head will crack with all the pressure... i don't know. i haven't tried it.


Just kidding, do not try this.


yeah... have a friend help you keep the flywheel from turning. use at least 1/2" drive ratchet and long breaker bar. eat you wheaties first then have at it.

I was like, WTF!!! lol

Use an impact wrench, if you don't have one, get one, It'll come in handy for so many things!

Removing the Crank Pulley Bolt
 

1) If the engine is out of the car, use a piece of wood to jam it between the first counterbalance of the crank and the engine block so that the crank will not spin, and then use a breaker bar and the 19mm socket.
Have someone help by holding the block from not spinning on the ground.

2) If the engine is bolted to the car, use an impact wrench and some patience.
(It took me some time for it to break free.)

3) Another way that I heard of is to set up the breaker bar handle pointing towards the left hand side of the car, and then starting the car up for a second. Never did it that way though.



Crank pulley bolt remove removal

well, a shade tree mechanic friend of mine went out and bought an electric impact wrench when his compressor motor gave out. he used it temporarily for a couple of weeks. just plug it into an outlet and start impacting. don't remember if it was a 110v or 220v. see if your local rental shop has one.

ok, this might be hard to understand but what i did was use one of the stock pully belts and put one end around a strong pully,(alt., water pump,....) and put the other end around the crank in a way the when you turn the pully it takes the slack out of the belt, like its winding up. the belt will get really tight until it wont let the crank spin, then go to town on the bolt. sorry if confuising, but it does work. just mess around with it until you figure it out. hope this helps!
-Brian

Buy an impact wrench! The breaker bar on the bolt and up against the frame works very well too when you turn it over. Putting a wooden block between a rod journal and the case works well too. But you have to get something the pry with and even a torque wrench set to about 100 lbs should work fine.

Russ

Okay, thanks for all of the responses; I think I am going to look into an impact wrench.

Now for a slight deviation in topic.

I have an 87 N/A Auto and this engine that I have gotten my hands on is most definitely not an 87. I'm not even sure if it is a Supra. The reason I say this is that the motor mounts are not the same. I cannot bolt my 87 mounts to this new engine; did the newer models of the MKIII use different mounts? If I am looking for a way to make this work, are there any tips? Or will I need custom mounts?

Yep, I think starting in the '89's, they used different mounts.
I know there are two types for the 7M-GTE.
Maybe buy some off someone parting a '89-92 Supra or make your own.
Some have made their own solid mounts.
You may or may not like solid mounts...

The JDM actually came with the '89 mounts...

The problem is that they look to be unable to bolt to the chassis of the 87; we considered shimming them to where it meets the block, but that would likely be a permanent weld to the newer mounts.

The 87 mounts just don't bolt up to the block, though they will meet the chassis.

If your engine is still in the crate and the balancer still on, you could try sharply striking the end of the breaker bar with a big hammer/wood block.

Thanks again for the tips. A brief update...

We've decided to leave the balancer on for the time being. If there's a problem with it down the road, then we'll address it, but the motor is rather new in terms of mileage. Figured out that the newer engine had the fuel filter mounted along the left side of the block - after removing its mounting bracket, the mounts worked.

However, what impact will this have when the 87 filter is all the way back by the tank? I am wondering whether or not that is the usual location or if someone managed to relocate it somehow.

Thanks in advance,
Nick