how fast should my engine use up its oil? - Page 2

rnoswal · 03-25-2006, 03:21 AM

As far as the cost of a good rebuild, it depends on if you let the machine shop do all the work or if you do it. The machine work will have to be done by a shop, but getting the block bored and checked for cracks, surfaced and replacing the freeze plugs is relatively cheap, between 1 and 2 hundred. The pistons are around 200 for the set with rings and the bearings are probably around 100 bucks. I rebuilt my 7MGE last year, but I am just kind of guessing with my prices as I can remember them.

The head cost close to 300 to do the valves and mill the head WITH the front timing cover. After the machine work I built the engine myself, so there was no labor, but if the shop does it you can figure that it will cost as much as the parts do. If you have the head done then you will have to redo the valve clearances, which means shims and most shops don't have these. You might get lucky at the dealer and find a mechanic that would be willing to let you borrow some.

After ARP head studs and the expensive complete gasket set I had close to 800 in parts and machine work. My N/A turned out very good and feels very strong and should be good for another several hundred thousand miles again. The difference in power is very noticeable with everything new again and sealing properly. It is not an impossible job for a beginner, but it is very involved and can turn into a nightmare if the bearings are put in right or the rings not installed right or the main or rod caps not installed correctly.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Russ

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03-25-2006, 03:21 AM	#11
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	As far as the cost of a good rebuild, it depends on if you let the machine shop do all the work or if you do it. The machine work will have to be done by a shop, but getting the block bored and checked for cracks, surfaced and replacing the freeze plugs is relatively cheap, between 1 and 2 hundred. The pistons are around 200 for the set with rings and the bearings are probably around 100 bucks. I rebuilt my 7MGE last year, but I am just kind of guessing with my prices as I can remember them. The head cost close to 300 to do the valves and mill the head WITH the front timing cover. After the machine work I built the engine myself, so there was no labor, but if the shop does it you can figure that it will cost as much as the parts do. If you have the head done then you will have to redo the valve clearances, which means shims and most shops don't have these. You might get lucky at the dealer and find a mechanic that would be willing to let you borrow some. After ARP head studs and the expensive complete gasket set I had close to 800 in parts and machine work. My N/A turned out very good and feels very strong and should be good for another several hundred thousand miles again. The difference in power is very noticeable with everything new again and sealing properly. It is not an impossible job for a beginner, but it is very involved and can turn into a nightmare if the bearings are put in right or the rings not installed right or the main or rod caps not installed correctly. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Russ