Rebuilding 87 7m-gte

Reeves · 04-21-2006, 07:09 PM

Hey guys!

Bad news... My engine took a crap! I'm not sure exactly what the problem is, but its making this rattling sound thats coming from the engine and my mechanic says I need a new engine. The previous owner (my brother) took really bad care of it and actually ran it without oil for i dont know how long due to busted valve covers.

So anyways I have decided im gonna get it rebuilt.. Im only 18 and have just gotten into cars not even a year ago (see my post history) so I need to know a few things.I want to put on a metal head gasket with some ARP studs while im getting it rebuilt. So here are the questions..

1.What kind head gasket should I get?
2.What is the purpose of the different thickness of headgaskets?
3.How do I know which one I want?
4. I have heard of composite headgaskets, would that be a better choice since they don't really require a machine shop? But im gonna have to go to the machine shop with a rebuild anyways... soooo??
5. I have also read about retorquing the studs, doesnt that involve taking the engine apart again (labor $$$$)? Is this necessary? Any alternatives?
6. What should all be included in the rebuild? I dont want them charging me for expensive stuff I don't need. These guys are trustworthy (family friend who owns a tire shop next door knows them), but still..

This is going to be my daily driver for awhile and I don't plan on getting too crazy with the horses. Just plan on doing exhaust, downpipe, boost controller, IC pipes, hks ssqv bov, maybe upgrade the turbine in the future, and whatever else goes with it, like injectors and anythign else I cant think of. But of course this will not all happen at the same time, it will be done gradually.

Thanks guys and please feel free to add anything you think I should know, im like a sponge waiting to absorb supra info!

P.S. Anyone in the San Diego area?

Benesesso · 04-22-2006, 12:23 AM

Good idea to pull the engine and get it rebuilt. It shouldn't cost too much to get real good flat surfaces on both block and head--AFTER they are tested for cracks.

I'd use a metal HG in that case. The nuts on the head studs can be rechecked by rmoving a few items and the cam/valve covers--you don't need to remove the cams too.

Reeves · 04-22-2006, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benesesso

AFTER they are tested for cracks.

Is this standard procedure for a rebuild/headgasket replacement or do I need to tell them to do this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benesesso

I'd use a metal HG in that case.

What thickness and brand headgasket though? Im sure it all depends.. but what does it depend on?

Whats the purpose of the different thickness'?

Reeves · 04-22-2006, 05:17 AM

What type of headgasket would be best? Bead, stopper, or grommet? Im thinking bead?

This is basically what I plan on telling the mechanic: I want to get the engine rebuilt, I want this here HG with these here ARP studs installed, test the head and block for cracks and THEN get some nice flat surfaces on the head and block. After it's done ill come in 2 weeks later and have them retorque (or whatever it is they do) the studs.. Am I missing anything?

Also, am i going to need to tell them the torq specs? (did I say that right?)

Supragirl available for comment?

Thanks for the quick responses so far!! I wouldnt know much about supras, or any car, if it wasnt for this forum!! =D.

rnoswal · 04-22-2006, 07:05 PM

Studs, 82 ft lbs.

Russ

ddmcse · 04-22-2006, 08:31 PM

I went with the stopper 2mm
been that way for 3 years
not cheap
the diff thickness is to compensate for how much you shaved off the block and head .(basically)

i have a few pictures on my website here is a shot of the gasket in question
http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/images/mhg.JPG

Reeves · 04-25-2006, 01:10 AM

The stopper HG is a good $100 more than the bead HG at least.. Why would I choose the stopper over the bead? Im leaning towards the bead simply because of the price.

Will I be okay just buying a 2.0mm HG or should I wait and see how much needs to be shaved off the head and block? My mechanic is the one dealing with the machine shop, thats why I ask.

~$4000 sound about right for labor and parts on a rebuild?

04-21-2006, 07:09 PM	#1
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	Rebuilding 87 7m-gte Hey guys! Bad news... My engine took a crap! I'm not sure exactly what the problem is, but its making this rattling sound thats coming from the engine and my mechanic says I need a new engine. The previous owner (my brother) took really bad care of it and actually ran it without oil for i dont know how long due to busted valve covers. So anyways I have decided im gonna get it rebuilt.. Im only 18 and have just gotten into cars not even a year ago (see my post history) so I need to know a few things.I want to put on a metal head gasket with some ARP studs while im getting it rebuilt. So here are the questions.. 1.What kind head gasket should I get? 2.What is the purpose of the different thickness of headgaskets? 3.How do I know which one I want? 4. I have heard of composite headgaskets, would that be a better choice since they don't really require a machine shop? But im gonna have to go to the machine shop with a rebuild anyways... soooo?? 5. I have also read about retorquing the studs, doesnt that involve taking the engine apart again (labor $$$$)? Is this necessary? Any alternatives? 6. What should all be included in the rebuild? I dont want them charging me for expensive stuff I don't need. These guys are trustworthy (family friend who owns a tire shop next door knows them), but still.. This is going to be my daily driver for awhile and I don't plan on getting too crazy with the horses. Just plan on doing exhaust, downpipe, boost controller, IC pipes, hks ssqv bov, maybe upgrade the turbine in the future, and whatever else goes with it, like injectors and anythign else I cant think of. But of course this will not all happen at the same time, it will be done gradually. Thanks guys and please feel free to add anything you think I should know, im like a sponge waiting to absorb supra info! P.S. Anyone in the San Diego area? Last edited by Reeves; 04-21-2006 at 07:14 PM.

04-22-2006, 12:23 AM	#2
Benesesso 3" Exhaust Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 145	Good idea to pull the engine and get it rebuilt. It shouldn't cost too much to get real good flat surfaces on both block and head--AFTER they are tested for cracks. I'd use a metal HG in that case. The nuts on the head studs can be rechecked by rmoving a few items and the cam/valve covers--you don't need to remove the cams too. __________________ "You see, wire telegraph is like a very long cat. You pull his tail in New York and his head is meowing in Los Angeles. Do you understand this? Radio operates the same way: You send signals here, they receive them there. The only difference is there is no cat." A. Einstein 1988 and 1990 Turbo Supras

04-22-2006, 08:31 PM	#6
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	I went with the stopper 2mm been that way for 3 years not cheap the diff thickness is to compensate for how much you shaved off the block and head .(basically) i have a few pictures on my website here is a shot of the gasket in question http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/images/mhg.JPG __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS Last edited by ddmcse; 04-22-2006 at 08:35 PM.

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04-22-2006, 05:17 AM	#4
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	What type of headgasket would be best? Bead, stopper, or grommet? Im thinking bead? This is basically what I plan on telling the mechanic: I want to get the engine rebuilt, I want this here HG with these here ARP studs installed, test the head and block for cracks and THEN get some nice flat surfaces on the head and block. After it's done ill come in 2 weeks later and have them retorque (or whatever it is they do) the studs.. Am I missing anything? Also, am i going to need to tell them the torq specs? (did I say that right?) Supragirl available for comment? Thanks for the quick responses so far!! I wouldnt know much about supras, or any car, if it wasnt for this forum!! =D.

04-22-2006, 07:05 PM	#5
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Studs, 82 ft lbs. Russ

04-25-2006, 01:10 AM	#7
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	The stopper HG is a good $100 more than the bead HG at least.. Why would I choose the stopper over the bead? Im leaning towards the bead simply because of the price. Will I be okay just buying a 2.0mm HG or should I wait and see how much needs to be shaved off the head and block? My mechanic is the one dealing with the machine shop, thats why I ask. ~$4000 sound about right for labor and parts on a rebuild?