Brakes are acting WEIRD + Oil leak?

Rommy · 05-16-2006, 04:24 AM

I asked my friend, he said I might need new rotors.

It's more than likely likely that I need new pads as it is (That's no problem, $15 a pair at AutoZone), but I'm scared that my car won't stop when I need it to, right now. I press the brakes, and I get a sick vibrating, almost like the ABS is constantly engaged, but I don't even think it has ABS. Are the rotors warped or something? It's like, a "BRRRRRTTTTRTRTRTRTRTRTRRT" when I press the brake. Please bear in mind that I'm a retarded 18 year-old who means well, but doesn't know much about cars.

Also, as for the oil leak, my father and I were changing the spark plugs (Really helped, just changing two of them, lol) and the whole thing where the spark plugs are was like, 1/4th full of dirty oil. Is it possible for oil to leak into there from somewhere?

(I have a 1990 Supra, non-turbo, if that helps any. I'm just really lost here.

)

mrnickleye · 05-16-2006, 04:33 AM

Oil in spark plug holes = valve cover gaskets leaking. NOT the center one, over the spark plugs. It only there to help keep debri out of the holes.

Brakes = DO NOT use those cheap ass pads from the zone. You will be sorry. Your life depends on how well your car stops. Get some good (not necessairly the very top) pads and rotors from Carquest, Napa, etc.

The ABS light comes on in dash when key is first put into 'on' position. No light, no ABS. Also check under hood on passenger's side for a block the size of your hand with several lines coming out. That is tha ABS system.

Rommy · 05-16-2006, 04:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrnickleye

Oil in spark plug holes = valve cover gaskets leaking. NOT the center one, over the spark plugs. It only there to help keep debri out of the holes.

Brakes = DO NOT use those cheap ass pads from the zone. You will be sorry. Your life depends on how well your car stops. Get some good (not necessairly the very top) pads and rotors from Carquest, Napa, etc.

The ABS light comes on in dash when key is first put into 'on' position. No light, no ABS. Also check under hood on passenger's side for a block the size of your hand with several lines coming out. That is tha ABS system.

In regards to your response to the valve cover gaskets leaking: Confirmed. That's what my dad suspected.

As for the brake pads and such, my friend uses them in his Supra, and they work fine. I'm on a budget.

Do you think the rotors are screwed though? It's like a grinding, vibrating, thumping on the brake pedal.

Burn N' Up · 05-16-2006, 05:11 AM

Its that or both, if you've been stopping hard the rotors could have hard spots in them and that will make the car feel like it kinda brakes hard and not so hard, hard not so hard in very fast action. Never hurts to turn the rotors and change the pads. You will be sorry with those autozone pads...

Rommy · 05-16-2006, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burn N' Up

You will be sorry with those autozone pads...

Are they that bad? $15 a pair is a really nice deal. Can I pay $50 or less for a good pair? If so, where?

Also, would turning the rotors be cheaper than buying a whole new set of rotors? ($80+15 shipping on ebay, both front and rear)

Here's another interesting one. When I turn the wheel, earlier today, it would screech like a banshee at the slightest turn of the wheel. Then it stopped, after the car seemingly warmed up. Needs power steering pump?

I mean damn. This car is freaking me out, I'm starting to think it was a bad buy. It peels out in reverse, but won't peel out in drive. Lol.

stumpjumper · 05-16-2006, 05:52 AM

Autozone pads are complete garbage.

They sound like shit, stop like shit and wear out quik.
Best bet is ceramic pads. They are expensive but quiet and last a good while.
But ya, screw autozone.

kewlcoconut · 05-16-2006, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rommy

Here's another interesting one. When I turn the wheel, earlier today, it would screech like a banshee at the slightest turn of the wheel. Then it stopped, after the car seemingly warmed up. Needs power steering pump?

Flush your power steering fluid, and rinse out the Power steering resevoir nice and good. I had the exact same problem. Crazy screeching, but went away when warmed up. The resevoir was dirty and clogged. I bet it hasnt been flushed at all, I dont think mine ever was. 20yr old dirt and grime = bad.

worked great though, doesnt make a sound at all. just needs a good fluid change and cleaning.

Rommy · 05-17-2006, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kewlcoconut

Flush your power steering fluid, and rinse out the Power steering resevoir nice and good. I had the exact same problem. Crazy screeching, but went away when warmed up. The resevoir was dirty and clogged. I bet it hasnt been flushed at all, I dont think mine ever was. 20yr old dirt and grime = bad.

worked great though, doesnt make a sound at all. just needs a good fluid change and cleaning.

I don't know if mine has been flushed, but when I looked inside, it was super clear. Might have just been refilled.

How do I rinse out the resirvoir? Thanks very much for the help! I really appreciate it.

mrnickleye · 05-17-2006, 02:18 AM

Just remove the P/S resevoir by getting the hoses off and lifting it out. Spray clean it with brake cleaner and a small cheap paint brush. Replace it and then top up to full line with DexIII tranny fluid (thats the factory fill stuff). Run the car a day, then suck out the fluid with a turkey baister with a 6' piece of fuel line stuck on the tip. refill againe with DexIII. Do this again in a week. Now you'll have flushed the entire system.

Is you car a turbo ?? A stock N/A automatic will NOT burn rubber in the forward gears. These cars were designed as a road race type car, so the tires grab the road and the suspension works to give you traction, not tire spin.

Brake rotors....it costs about $10-15 to turn each. Since you are having problems that seem to be rotor related, I would opt for new ones. You can't "turn" out the hot-spots in the rotor.

Bummer to spend the $, then have to buy rotors to get them right. And many places that turn rotors don't know, or care, if they don't work out for you.

Fronts take all the abuse. My back ones are still on the same "good" pads for 4 years now, about 40k miles, and still have 50% pads.

I've done the fronts, pads and rotors, 2x in 4 years. About 60% pads left, now. I get mine from Carquest. Bendix Pads. Next time I'm gonna use ceramics, because they are quieter, and don't leave as much dust on my rims. Same $$ as good semi-metalics.

Read this,too.....

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

Rommy · 05-17-2006, 04:27 AM

Apparently my friend's N/A automatic burns rubber if done properly. :P

I'm having trouble telling if my car is losing power... I give it gas, and it goes... but at a certain point, it stops going any faster, and that's barely 1/3rd of the way down. My friend's N/A automatic is running better, as far as I know. I did something that might've helped, though. The valve cover screws were apparently SUPER loose. I could nearly take them out with my fingers. I still would like to have a mechanic change the valve cover gaskets. I got a quote from my friend's mechanic, $120 including parts. Sounds good, seeing as it looks like a lot of work, if I were to do it.

I need to have a really good look at the rotors tomorrow... I looked at them through the wheels today, and the front looked terrible. The rear didn't look too bad, however.

On another note, I paid $1,500 for the car. Would it be worth it to fix it up, or should I just sell it for what I paid for it, and buy a turbo stickshift Supra in good condition for $3k+? Lol.

Hell, might as well ask another question, I'm full of them.

The spark plug wells are half full of oil. That's obviously not good, but will it affect the performance of the car significantly?

Sorry for being obnoxious, but another question. The P/S fluid well is perfectly clean as it is, but it's really low. Should I just add fluid and call it a day? Or consider getting a new pump put in?

I really don't want to put more than $500 into this car to get it running decently again.

05-16-2006, 04:24 AM	#1
Rommy Stock Join Date: May 2006 Location: California Posts: 21	Brakes are acting WEIRD + Oil leak? I asked my friend, he said I might need new rotors. It's more than likely likely that I need new pads as it is (That's no problem, $15 a pair at AutoZone), but I'm scared that my car won't stop when I need it to, right now. I press the brakes, and I get a sick vibrating, almost like the ABS is constantly engaged, but I don't even think it has ABS. Are the rotors warped or something? It's like, a "BRRRRRTTTTRTRTRTRTRTRTRRT" when I press the brake. Please bear in mind that I'm a retarded 18 year-old who means well, but doesn't know much about cars. Also, as for the oil leak, my father and I were changing the spark plugs (Really helped, just changing two of them, lol) and the whole thing where the spark plugs are was like, 1/4th full of dirty oil. Is it possible for oil to leak into there from somewhere? (I have a 1990 Supra, non-turbo, if that helps any. I'm just really lost here. )

05-16-2006, 04:33 AM	#2
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	Oil in spark plug holes = valve cover gaskets leaking. NOT the center one, over the spark plugs. It only there to help keep debri out of the holes. Brakes = DO NOT use those cheap ass pads from the zone. You will be sorry. Your life depends on how well your car stops. Get some good (not necessairly the very top) pads and rotors from Carquest, Napa, etc. The ABS light comes on in dash when key is first put into 'on' position. No light, no ABS. Also check under hood on passenger's side for a block the size of your hand with several lines coming out. That is tha ABS system. __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08.

05-17-2006, 02:18 AM	#9
mrnickleye 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Mojave Desert, Calif. Posts: 1,705	A little more info Just remove the P/S resevoir by getting the hoses off and lifting it out. Spray clean it with brake cleaner and a small cheap paint brush. Replace it and then top up to full line with DexIII tranny fluid (thats the factory fill stuff). Run the car a day, then suck out the fluid with a turkey baister with a 6' piece of fuel line stuck on the tip. refill againe with DexIII. Do this again in a week. Now you'll have flushed the entire system. Is you car a turbo ?? A stock N/A automatic will NOT burn rubber in the forward gears. These cars were designed as a road race type car, so the tires grab the road and the suspension works to give you traction, not tire spin. Brake rotors....it costs about $10-15 to turn each. Since you are having problems that seem to be rotor related, I would opt for new ones. You can't "turn" out the hot-spots in the rotor. Bummer to spend the $, then have to buy rotors to get them right. And many places that turn rotors don't know, or care, if they don't work out for you. Fronts take all the abuse. My back ones are still on the same "good" pads for 4 years now, about 40k miles, and still have 50% pads. I've done the fronts, pads and rotors, 2x in 4 years. About 60% pads left, now. I get mine from Carquest. Bendix Pads. Next time I'm gonna use ceramics, because they are quieter, and don't leave as much dust on my rims. Same $$ as good semi-metalics. Read this,too..... http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm __________________ Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. Last edited by mrnickleye; 05-17-2006 at 02:23 AM.

05-17-2006, 04:27 AM	#10
Rommy Stock Join Date: May 2006 Location: California Posts: 21	Apparently my friend's N/A automatic burns rubber if done properly. :P I'm having trouble telling if my car is losing power... I give it gas, and it goes... but at a certain point, it stops going any faster, and that's barely 1/3rd of the way down. My friend's N/A automatic is running better, as far as I know. I did something that might've helped, though. The valve cover screws were apparently SUPER loose. I could nearly take them out with my fingers. I still would like to have a mechanic change the valve cover gaskets. I got a quote from my friend's mechanic, $120 including parts. Sounds good, seeing as it looks like a lot of work, if I were to do it. I need to have a really good look at the rotors tomorrow... I looked at them through the wheels today, and the front looked terrible. The rear didn't look too bad, however. On another note, I paid $1,500 for the car. Would it be worth it to fix it up, or should I just sell it for what I paid for it, and buy a turbo stickshift Supra in good condition for $3k+? Lol. Hell, might as well ask another question, I'm full of them. The spark plug wells are half full of oil. That's obviously not good, but will it affect the performance of the car significantly? Sorry for being obnoxious, but another question. The P/S fluid well is perfectly clean as it is, but it's really low. Should I just add fluid and call it a day? Or consider getting a new pump put in? I really don't want to put more than $500 into this car to get it running decently again. Last edited by Rommy; 05-17-2006 at 04:53 AM.

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05-16-2006, 05:11 AM	#4
Burn N' Up 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 238	Its that or both, if you've been stopping hard the rotors could have hard spots in them and that will make the car feel like it kinda brakes hard and not so hard, hard not so hard in very fast action. Never hurts to turn the rotors and change the pads. You will be sorry with those autozone pads...

05-16-2006, 05:52 AM	#6
stumpjumper 3" Exhaust Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 74	Autozone pads are complete garbage. They sound like shit, stop like shit and wear out quik. Best bet is ceramic pads. They are expensive but quiet and last a good while. But ya, screw autozone.