Introducing myself/Help?

Hellion179 · 07-05-2006, 11:29 PM

The engine is definently holding up to the small bursts in the 20-25 psi range. A lot of low compression engines can do that, so don't get too excited :P And at that boost, it feels like a slug still. I'm really thinking rich.

The turbo from my understanding is larger than stock, so removing all of the aftermarket stuff would surely lean out the A/F ratio right? God I wish I could have found my damn meter at my parents house...

I'll just have to wait until Monday to really get into playing with it. The engine definently has potential if it's hanging around with that. I'm wondering what the difference is going to be between american and japanese specs. I know that in most vehicles the amount the engines can handle is often pretty large..not sure with this particular car though.

I'll keep you guys updated and I'll mess with it a bit on the way to work and back.

Isphius · 07-06-2006, 06:38 AM

It definatley shouldnt feel slow at 20 psi lol. I would say you have a fuel problem, If your sure the air is getting there. Make sure your timing isnt off, Or any of your sensors arent off. (cam position, Throttle position) and make sure youre not leaking boost still. Is it smoking black at all? if it was running that rich it would leave some black smoke.

suprra_girl · 07-06-2006, 01:10 PM

hey

and welcome to the forum

i assume you have done the basic of basic and have done a diagnostic?
there is a walkthough in the faq section for this

i suggest removing the boost controller for a start or disabling it so you run stock wastegate boost and see how the spiking issue is

is there a screw in the lexus afm as this is also used to control a/fs a wee bit to control idle n stuff
as for the password lock i have no idea, maybe the memory can be reset somewhere

1am now.. i'm tired, if i think of anything miraculous i'll post it up later hehe

IHateHacks · 07-06-2006, 01:59 PM

"Just take the safc out"

Yea ok. Too bad its soldered into the ecu harness. They dont sell a patch harness for a supra. Trust me Ive looked.

Im not surprised it feels slower at higher boost levels (20 in your case) Ive seen writeups where at the current state of tune, the motor hits a sweet spot, a level of boost where it is maximizing the efficiency of the engine. Any more boost and power falls off, why? Probably because its getting too hot and running lean at 20psi but thats purely speculation at this point.

I still stick to my theory, get a new afc or get your password and put it on a dyno with someone who has had experience tuning AFC's. You'd be surprized how much you can fuckup your car with it being set incorrectly. The AFC is there for a reason, do NOT take it out that would be a hack move.

Usually in my case the tuner is the owner of the car so there is no need to lock the AFC. So Im speculating that who ever set the password tuned the car, meaning not your Father. Have you asked him who did the work or did he receive the car in this state? There is a lithium battery backup so you dont have to always set it after disconnecting the car battery but im not sure if its removable.

Yes manual boost controllers are the only way to go (in my opinion) Old skool bra.... Thats why I didnt know what it is I dont pay attention to electronic bullshit. Thats for lazy ass i dont know how to set a manual boost controller mofukas.

Get that wideband in there, that will help tremendously for tuning.

Like she said (if you havent already) run diag on the engine, and check/set the timing. Its really not hard, you just have to disable the electronic advance at the diagnostic port. If you need to know how just ask.

And by the way, yea that turbo is f'n huge compared to the wimpy CT26 stocker.

07-06-2006, 06:38 AM	#2
Isphius 500whp yet? Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Long branch, NJ Posts: 1,006	It definatley shouldnt feel slow at 20 psi lol. I would say you have a fuel problem, If your sure the air is getting there. Make sure your timing isnt off, Or any of your sensors arent off. (cam position, Throttle position) and make sure youre not leaking boost still. Is it smoking black at all? if it was running that rich it would leave some black smoke. __________________ Yay the supra assistant is gone!!! WEEE!!

07-06-2006, 01:10 PM	#3
suprra_girl 7M POWAH! ;) Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: New Zealand Posts: 2,312	hey and welcome to the forum i assume you have done the basic of basic and have done a diagnostic? there is a walkthough in the faq section for this i suggest removing the boost controller for a start or disabling it so you run stock wastegate boost and see how the spiking issue is is there a screw in the lexus afm as this is also used to control a/fs a wee bit to control idle n stuff as for the password lock i have no idea, maybe the memory can be reset somewhere 1am now.. i'm tired, if i think of anything miraculous i'll post it up later hehe __________________ Please use the forum to ask your questions as they will get replied to much faster than pming me Pics of my build. "Good girls are just bad girls that don't get caught" Do a diagnostic first!

07-06-2006, 01:59 PM	#4
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	"Just take the safc out" Yea ok. Too bad its soldered into the ecu harness. They dont sell a patch harness for a supra. Trust me Ive looked. Im not surprised it feels slower at higher boost levels (20 in your case) Ive seen writeups where at the current state of tune, the motor hits a sweet spot, a level of boost where it is maximizing the efficiency of the engine. Any more boost and power falls off, why? Probably because its getting too hot and running lean at 20psi but thats purely speculation at this point. I still stick to my theory, get a new afc or get your password and put it on a dyno with someone who has had experience tuning AFC's. You'd be surprized how much you can fuckup your car with it being set incorrectly. The AFC is there for a reason, do NOT take it out that would be a hack move. Usually in my case the tuner is the owner of the car so there is no need to lock the AFC. So Im speculating that who ever set the password tuned the car, meaning not your Father. Have you asked him who did the work or did he receive the car in this state? There is a lithium battery backup so you dont have to always set it after disconnecting the car battery but im not sure if its removable. Yes manual boost controllers are the only way to go (in my opinion) Old skool bra.... Thats why I didnt know what it is I dont pay attention to electronic bullshit. Thats for lazy ass i dont know how to set a manual boost controller mofukas. Get that wideband in there, that will help tremendously for tuning. Like she said (if you havent already) run diag on the engine, and check/set the timing. Its really not hard, you just have to disable the electronic advance at the diagnostic port. If you need to know how just ask. And by the way, yea that turbo is f'n huge compared to the wimpy CT26 stocker. Last edited by IHateHacks; 07-06-2006 at 02:56 PM.

07-05-2006, 11:29 PM	#1
Hellion179 Stock Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 3	The engine is definently holding up to the small bursts in the 20-25 psi range. A lot of low compression engines can do that, so don't get too excited :P And at that boost, it feels like a slug still. I'm really thinking rich. The turbo from my understanding is larger than stock, so removing all of the aftermarket stuff would surely lean out the A/F ratio right? God I wish I could have found my damn meter at my parents house... I'll just have to wait until Monday to really get into playing with it. The engine definently has potential if it's hanging around with that. I'm wondering what the difference is going to be between american and japanese specs. I know that in most vehicles the amount the engines can handle is often pretty large..not sure with this particular car though. I'll keep you guys updated and I'll mess with it a bit on the way to work and back.