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Old 07-05-2006, 05:21 AM   #1
Hellion179
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Hi all, I was just given a 1989 Toyota Supra turbo. It was more of a trade really. Anyway, it was my old mans car that he bought two years ago. It has not been used in over 1 year. As best he can remember, it has an upgraded turbo(I checked, 20G TD05), a Profec B, and a Super AFC II. What I was told about it is that it's supposed to have around 400hp..I got it fired up, fluids changed, etc..and it doesn't feel like that, lol. I have a wideband that's going in there tomorrow but I'm having several problems with controls that I'm not familiar with.

1. The Profec B is not controlling boost. I haven't messed with it much, but my dad said it was running at around 12 psi on lo setting, 18 on high. Now, in low setting it has gone up to 20...very quickly..I let off, but I'm sure it would have gone higher. I've adjusted everything I can on it..and it still is not functioning.

2. The AFC is locked, and I have no password. Anyone have like a key password that'll work out?

The engine is a japanese motor that I was told has less than 30K kilometers on it. Everything about the car has been meticulously kept up to shape. There is nothing that does not work. Even though my dad neglected it..it was because of an injury..so I'm not holding it against him.

I think the power issue might be due to it running rich..I'll find out for sure tomorrow. Just wanted to say hi to everyone and see who can give me a hand.

Anything you guys can suggest to me about my new vehicle? It's auto has 187K miles, has upgraded shocks and has been lowered 1 or 2 inches.

Thanks.
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Old 07-05-2006, 08:06 AM   #2
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Welcome to the Supra family, and to the toyota-supra.com community. Your turbo questions will have to be answered by one of the turbo folks, but if ya need help in other areas, I'm always around to ask.
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Old 07-05-2006, 07:36 PM   #3
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I probably wont be of much help either but, Im assuming it has had major work done. You are probably not seeing (feeling) the supposed 400hp because (I think) the afc isnt set right or lost its settings. And since you dont have the password I think you are up the creek on that one. Plus you need a dyno to truly "tune" the afc, unless you have a spec sheet that came from whoever slapped the parts on and tuned it in the first place (if that ever even happened). I dont know if you know, but you will not see 12psi without hitting fuel cut with a stock setup (but thats why you have an afc). And 20psi is not possible without internal engine work on an 87-92 supra so Im glad to see you have a potentially sick supra. And by sick I mean in a good way!

Never heard of The Profec B, is it just a boost controller? Old school?

Wow just saw you said its auto, thats too bad. Maybe thats why you arent impressed with its performance.

But in the mean time the only thing I can think of is check the vaccum line to the wastegate. If it fell off or is cracked and leaking you will not be able to control boost.

Last edited by IHateHacks; 07-05-2006 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 07-05-2006, 08:53 PM   #4
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The profec is a greddy boost controller. Check the afc for a reset button, or a memory battery or something. Im sure it being an auto is not whats causing him not to be impressed. The autos are actually marginally faster, Just not as fun, to most people. I would say check to make sure you arent losing boost somewhere, And def check the wastegate line. Just take the safc out and find a way to turn the boost down, And see if it runs well on factory controls.
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Old 07-05-2006, 10:42 PM   #5
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Ty for the warm welcome and all the responses. The Profec is supposed to be a a really great boost controller, but it hasn't done crap for me, lol. As for it being auto..it does suck...but to be honest it worked out better that way. My wife doesn't drive stick, let alone automatic very well, lol.

I couldn't find my LM-1 today, and got busy with some stuff so no new news for me. I think the AFC is all messed up as after pushing it a bit, it studders at times.

That 20 psi was for seconds too..I'm not keeping it at that, lol. I doubt highly it could hold it for long, but so far no detonation or anything else like that, at least I haven't heard any...for now it's staying out of boost.

At first I suspected it was boost spike, as it jumps up to 20 psi from around 12-14 almost instantly..But after messing with every setting I can on the Profec, still no luck. I'm about to rip all of this pretty equipment out of the car and go old school with an fmu and a manual boost controller : /

Also, I found some more info on the car, apparently it has a lexus MAF and some larger injectors..550cc I think? From what it said in the article that was with the car stuff, it's apparently a really often done upgrade?

If you guys have any more ideas or suggestions let me know, meantime I have to wait until Monday for my next day off to work on the car. If there's any information you need from me to possibly diagnose it let me know I'll see what I can do.
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Old 07-05-2006, 11:14 PM   #6
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Yes, Lots of people do that. It lets you run more air before you hit boost cut, And some people have said it improves the throttle response and driveability. You just the take maf from a v8 lexus, Which reads air slower than the stock one. And the bigger injectors are so your motor isnt running lean. I would say take any aftermarket controls off, And hook it back up as stock as you can. This would rule out the after market stuff being faulty or installed wrong, And if its a genuine toyota problem, Someone will def be able to help. Most notably suprra_girl....shell probably answer this sooner or later. On another note, I think you do have a motor with serious potential if it will even make 20 psi.... That is a crapload. More than it should without fuel cut. Is it an aftermarket boost gauge? because the stock one sucks, And if it is aftermarket make sure its installed/calibrated correctly.
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Old 07-05-2006, 11:29 PM   #7
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The engine is definently holding up to the small bursts in the 20-25 psi range. A lot of low compression engines can do that, so don't get too excited :P And at that boost, it feels like a slug still. I'm really thinking rich.

The turbo from my understanding is larger than stock, so removing all of the aftermarket stuff would surely lean out the A/F ratio right? God I wish I could have found my damn meter at my parents house...

I'll just have to wait until Monday to really get into playing with it. The engine definently has potential if it's hanging around with that. I'm wondering what the difference is going to be between american and japanese specs. I know that in most vehicles the amount the engines can handle is often pretty large..not sure with this particular car though.

I'll keep you guys updated and I'll mess with it a bit on the way to work and back.
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:38 AM   #8
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It definatley shouldnt feel slow at 20 psi lol. I would say you have a fuel problem, If your sure the air is getting there. Make sure your timing isnt off, Or any of your sensors arent off. (cam position, Throttle position) and make sure youre not leaking boost still. Is it smoking black at all? if it was running that rich it would leave some black smoke.
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Old 07-06-2006, 01:10 PM   #9
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hey

and welcome to the forum

i assume you have done the basic of basic and have done a diagnostic?
there is a walkthough in the faq section for this

i suggest removing the boost controller for a start or disabling it so you run stock wastegate boost and see how the spiking issue is

is there a screw in the lexus afm as this is also used to control a/fs a wee bit to control idle n stuff
as for the password lock i have no idea, maybe the memory can be reset somewhere

1am now.. i'm tired, if i think of anything miraculous i'll post it up later hehe
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Old 07-06-2006, 01:59 PM   #10
IHateHacks
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"Just take the safc out"

Yea ok. Too bad its soldered into the ecu harness. They dont sell a patch harness for a supra. Trust me Ive looked.

Im not surprised it feels slower at higher boost levels (20 in your case) Ive seen writeups where at the current state of tune, the motor hits a sweet spot, a level of boost where it is maximizing the efficiency of the engine. Any more boost and power falls off, why? Probably because its getting too hot and running lean at 20psi but thats purely speculation at this point.

I still stick to my theory, get a new afc or get your password and put it on a dyno with someone who has had experience tuning AFC's. You'd be surprized how much you can fuckup your car with it being set incorrectly. The AFC is there for a reason, do NOT take it out that would be a hack move.

Usually in my case the tuner is the owner of the car so there is no need to lock the AFC. So Im speculating that who ever set the password tuned the car, meaning not your Father. Have you asked him who did the work or did he receive the car in this state? There is a lithium battery backup so you dont have to always set it after disconnecting the car battery but im not sure if its removable.

Yes manual boost controllers are the only way to go (in my opinion) Old skool bra.... Thats why I didnt know what it is I dont pay attention to electronic bullshit. Thats for lazy ass i dont know how to set a manual boost controller mofukas.

Get that wideband in there, that will help tremendously for tuning.

Like she said (if you havent already) run diag on the engine, and check/set the timing. Its really not hard, you just have to disable the electronic advance at the diagnostic port. If you need to know how just ask.

And by the way, yea that turbo is f'n huge compared to the wimpy CT26 stocker.

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