7mgte vs 1jz TT vs 2jz TT
 

right now my car is running the 7mgte motor but im planning on doing a motor swap...But im not sure what motor would be better im driving(well its in the shop gettin painted and re-aposterd) a 1989 targa top supra. Can anybody tell me which motor would be better for the swap and which one would gain me the most improve power in..the 1/4mile...0-60time and fastest accleration overall...thank you



car...1989 targo top super...white paint blue interior...stock..so far

le me see where to start

ok

the 7mgte vs 1jzgte
almost the same identical engine except the 1jz has twins
you can achive this with the 7m also with the help of a custom downpipe
thier capabilities are almost the same
power is almost the same (not stock to stock of course)
but stock the 1jz has more power than the 7m
but once again it can be duplicated

7mgte vs 2jzgte
there is almost no comparison
2jz is the best engine that toyota ever made
power is no comparison
i dunt think the 2jz has the headgasket problem like the 7m (look that up)
all you need to do is port the head maybe oversized piston, and your good to go with the bolt-on power
but the big issue is the power:money ratio
the 2jz engine itself is expensive enough already
plus the only thing you can get is probly from an aristo
not the original 2jz's that came from supras

1jzgte vs 2jzgte
2jz all the way since it can handle more abuse than the 1jz
and the other stuff is above about this engines

my suggestion: see how much the 1jz conversion is gonna run you
then see how much to get a custom downpipe and other stuff so u can get a second turbo with your 7mgte

whatever is cheaper or easier go for that one

i did this researches online
this is to the best of my knowledge
cuz im also looking for a new engine
hope this helps you out

thanx it helps alot. Ive looked online and seen a 1jz for 1900 and a 2jz for 2300 but im just mainly concern about the issue of labor cost and etc to swap and convert it....but i know dats the down side buh its a major upside cuz the 2jz does not have the headgasket problem....ive thougth about doing the twin set up on the 7mgte but then again...i dont think the gasket will hold even if i replace it and resurface it install a better one. but if i find out it works i would prolly do the conversion to the twin set up but righ now i prolly will go with a 2jz swap...cuz money come and money go

if by any chance you do this soon
can you sell me your 7mgte
im looking for an engine right now
and its hard to find

my friend can import a 1jz for around $1000cdn. i was thinking of the swap in my 87 7mge.. but there i need the new tranny and everything. what do you think? find a 89+ with a blown engine and swap it instead of doing a conversion?

well is ur 87 in good condition already if so i would stay with the 87 buh i think the 89+ is better i know a supra fanatic dats has a 1jz in his 91 or was it 92 supra with a custom Intercooler and hes frame holds the power hes pushing aorund 350 and his bro has a 92 supra with a 2jz motor pushing 500 and they have no problem with the body at all so i say to go with the 89+ unless u love ur 87...and or get a good 89+ and sell the motor and use that cash to help pay for the 1jz swap....hope that helps and doesnt confuse you

if money is tight i wouldnt even think of a motor swap. but if money aint a problem then ok. the thing with the 1jz is the limited aftermarket support, its hard to find parts out there. if you got money falling outa your pockets, you got a shop you can take it too, and you have alot of experience working on motors and such then the 2jz would be what you want, but if you got money to throw around im sure you wouldnt be fiddleing with a mkiii. point is i would suggest sticking to the 7m

thats true
the 7m and the 1jz
are almost close to each other
that the conversion wont even be that much

2jz is the way to go (if you have money)
if not stick with the 7m
its not a bad engine
only the headgasket
but inline6 doesnt stink

My 7m-gte just laid down 667rwhp and 591tq. It's not stock though...

thats cold

why dont list sum of the mods that you got
so the rest of us will get an idea what we need to do?
when your running high horses like that,
did you get a mhg?(assuming you did already)
but does it still blow?

dats what im scared of..even if i repalce the HG's will it still blow on me if i upgrade the parts and push the horse power your pushing out...and does n e body know how much to convert the 7mgte to a twin set up will cost me..cuz im only 18 and im going to college and money is a lil tight..and i want power buh reliable power...so is my best bet to stay with the 7mgte with just upgrades and if so...can someone list the upgrades i should first do to the engine and tranny plz thank you

hey guys one more major question can the 7mgte hang with the big boys..such as the 2jz and the corvets and mustang and sti's in a drag race cuz if so i think ima save me alot of money and keep the 7mgte and or just go cheap and swap the block for a 3.0 liter and make a ghetto version of a 2jz type set up

500hp 7m is no different then a 500hp 2jz. I was at a huge Suprameet this weekend and only 2 2jz's made more hp then me and the closest 1jz was 150whp behind me.

Build list! Probably forgot a bunch...

Engine Management:
-AEM CPU
-Apexi AVCR
-AEM Wideband

Engine:
-Wiseco .40 forged pistons
-Eagle H beam Rods
-Toyota bearings
-ARP Headstuds, Mainstuds, Rod bolts
-HKS 2mm Metal Headgasket
-Stage 3 Port and polished head
-AEM adjustable cam gears

Induction:
-Custom Short runner Front facing intake manifold
-Q45 88mm Throttle body
-GT 4067R Turbo
-Tial 50mm BOV
-24x12x3.5 Custom intercooler

Drivetrain:
-HPF's Feramic full faced clutch disk w/ RPS 3200lb pressure plate
-Fidanza lightwieght flywheel
-Titan motorsports aluminum drivshaft

Exhaust:
-HPF's tubular manifold
-Tial 44mm wastegate
-3.5" Downpipe, midpipe and test pipe (Stainless)
-HPF's 4" Stainless cat back w/ 4" in/out aeroturbine muffler

Fuel:
-RC 750cc injectors
-LIPP High flow fuel rail
-Aeromotive a1000 external pump
-Aeromotive filters, 10 micron and 100 micron
- -08 line from pump to fuel rail
-Aeromotive FPR

Interior:
-Sparco Torino racing seats
-JZA70 Momo steering wheel

Suspension:
-Tein Flex coilovers
-Tein EDFC (coilover controller)
-Suspension technique sway bars
-JIC rear strut bar
-Cusco Front strut bar

Wheels:
-Racing Hart c4, 18x9f 18x10 r
-Nitto 555, 245/40 f 275/35 r
-94 Supra TT wheels 17x8f 17x9.5 r

Brakes:
-Precision brakes 13" slotted rotors front and rear
-Willwood 4 piston calipers

Other:
-Autometer Cobalt gauges
-Oil pressure
-Fuel pressure
-Boost pressure
-EGT
-Water temp
-Voltmeter
-Fuel level
-HKS turbo timper
-Battery relocated to trunk w/ Jegs aluminum sealed box
-Optima Red top battery
-Earls aluminum oil cooler with -08 lines
-Oil filter relocation kit with -10 stainless braided lines

There was a topic not too long ago in a next forum and some one posted this

"WHat i am trying to say is there is NO engine swap that i would reccomend for u. That motor can make alot of power(2j) but your car will always be heavy. If you were to add up the costs of putting a 2jz 3.0 L engine from a mark 4 into your mark 3 supra, you could own a much much better car simply by purchasing a mark 4. What you should be asking yourself is what u want from your car. more power? better handleing? This car was designed as a grand touring auto, and it does that admirably."

I was also told that the bottom end of the 7mgte vs the 2jz is a little stronger stock fo rstock. I was thinking about doing a 2jz swap, but some one told me to just find the top end from a 2j and slap he ron to the bottom end of your 7m.

I guess it all comes down to money, but in the end, the mk3 is still going to be a heavy beast, but we love our heavy beast, so do it up.

Peace.......

That is some gross misinformation. A 2j head will not fit a 7m block or vice versa. The 2j's stock bottom end is good into the 700whp range iirc and the 7m is good in to the low 500's as long as its in very good shape.

A 1j head on a 2j bottom end will work. It's refered to as a 1.5jz

nate, buddy, talk to me... how much have you droppped into the car? give me a break down, car, parts, etcs. also what kind of gas mileage does a car of this caliber get? is it your dd? guess not since you put it away for the winters... im sorry im just drooling... so impressive, good job

Thanks! It's not a daily driver, I haven't tested it for mpg but it isn't bad. I bought the car for $6200 (shoulda talked him down a bit more) but I'm happy with it.

Cost, well lets put it this way, If I wanted a mk4 I coulda had one with plenty to spare... I think I made the right choice :)

Well i guess the swap biz is false. I dont know what the deal is with how much a 2jz can take, i just been told by several people that bottom end vs bottom end the 7m's is better. I would love to have the stats form your car, but if its going to run me $$$ to the point i can get a mk4, i might have to start saving

Peace.......

thanx guys...with all this talk and nate's car pushing all that damn power.. i think im safer with just fixing the HG's and sticking with the 7mgte and just building it up beyond my own belief and letting the become a black whole were my parents will slap me sill and yell at me for not just buying a new car...cuz im into track racing and drag and drift buh i just wonder will a swap gasket hold down the power i wanna push its around 650to700 and i want it DD...i know gas will kill me cuz here in LBC 91 gas is 3.40 or so depends as always...thanx alot guys the 7mgte sounds way better now and wayway WAAAAYYYY cheaper then a swap

I got the mgte myself. I noticed on the net some people claiming they can get it upto 650 HP (even more). And yes, we're talking an MKIII, not IV. The issue is, the car is powerful enough. But I guess the true way to get speed... is by getting it lighter. Does someone know where to get carbon-fibred bodies for our car?

Claiming? This is a dyno sheet where I only reved to 6250rpm. It made 667 at 7000rpm.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...84_45_full.jpg


If you want a carbon fibre body for your car your best bet is to go to sleep tonite and hope you dream about it.

lol :bow: yeah I know we're talking about big money. But then again, I plan on keeping the car as a classic in the end. So like spending 6000 bucks on bodywork doesn't hold me back. Right now, I'm trying to figure out how to get the car at its absolute top.

If $6000 is your budget for the body work alone you should be fine. Of course no carbon fibre body... Plan on spending 6 times that to safely push the car to its limits. You don't have to spend that much, but when you're talking about 5, 600+ hp you can break stuff or kill yourself really quick. Cutting corners is not a good idea, Good luck.

Yeah I know what you mean. it's not my main intention of just blowing it up to make it go fast for some time. Like you kinda said, it needs to be done safely. I know that performance parts cost alot more. Last time I checked Greddy Turbo's were like 4000 bucks easily. And that's just a Turbo, nothing more. But I can't really talk about my plans on performance yet. I'm trying to find out what parts give best performance. I'm overviewing many top configurations. I'm trying to find out about engine conversions right now. And then I'm going to purchase what I need.
People down here race for 500 bucks easily. And they're like mostly running Honda Civic Coup?s. Not that powerful, but light as hell. So I wanna know what I can get out of this car first.
Respect for ya ride! You got some muscle in there!