BHG problems!!! Please Help.
 

I did the dreaded BHG job. Now I got everything back together and I have no power. I checked the wires, grounds, etc... I cant figure it out. Please help!

I am going to suggest that you go through that TSMR thingy. It gives you full diagrams, and VERY useful stuff like that. Asking someone "I just put my engine back together, it doesn't run, tell me what is wrong...." is a hard thing to answer. There could be TONS of things. I think this one will be mostly left up to you to just fiddle around, and find out what is wrong.


DO NOT get me wrong here, you will get all the help that the people here can give you, just I don't think you will get specific help here...alot of "Well check this, then that, and if those two arn't..maybe these 5,000,000 other things...lol"

I hope you the best of luck. I did a spark plug job a while back, but they were the wrong spark plugs, and I had already thrown out the other ones....anyways, I know how it feels to have a supra sitting in your driveway, and KNOWING you can't drive it. Although my termoile only lasted about 39 hours.....

P.S. Did you check the battery? Is it dead (I am not saying your an idiot, just it gets overlooked)

Its bran new, i tested it its putting out 12.5 volts. The wires are hot as far down into the motor as I can reach. It worked fine before I started the job. I bought a MAIN fuse and it wasnt that 17 bucks down the drain...

I figured it out. It was the small wire comming off the positive terminal. It was broke right were the connector ended. SO I got it started, and it idles like CRAP all the timing is right or close enough. Moving the distributor doesnt seem to affect it much. It almost seems like a vaccum leak. BUT then when it warmed up some it ran better. But it kept dieing at idle when I stopped. Any ideas?

bump......

how are your intake tubes? mine was pretty crappy and a section kept slipping off the rest, and that causes the engine to die since its no longer getting air. maybe check that

They look good. It acts like its not getting fuel. But only at idle. If I give it gas it works fine. Could It be off time?

check the vacuum with a guage at idle and see if it appears to be good or its erratic. Erratic means a leak or some such. Re-check all the vacuum lines.
Could be the throttle body stop screw needs to come up a little. If you adjust that you will also have to check the throttle posistion sensor to make sure the switch inside is closed to let the ECU know your at idle. Check all other electrical connections too as a big job like a BHG means you just about tear the motor down to parade rest.

I checked all the electric and vaccum lines. It all seems to be ok. I dont have a guage to check teh vaccum. I will get one but what line do I check? What do you mean by erratic? Thanks for your guys' help.

maybe the fuel pump is clogged? ... ( long shot but... sometimes the simplest things are the right things... )

erratic means not stable. The needle will be jumping up and down. It could also mean valve problems for an erratic vacuum.
Check the timing with a light and see whare its set too just to make sure.

I just had a valve job done on it. Its more like it not getting gas. Then it jumps up like it got a shot of gas then back down. But if I give it gas its fine. It ran fine besides the missing before I did the BHG job. I think the timing might be a little off. I will re adjust it and see what happens. Thanks for the help.

Ok the timing was a little off. I fixed it and it runs a little better but it still idles rough. It also dies when I come to a stop. BUT now the check engine light is on. Is there a way to flash check the codes in these cars or no? I know with my eclipse I had you could turn the key on and off 3 or 4 times and it would flash the check engine light for the codes. Also with my honda I had you hooked up a wire to make a connection and it flashed the codes. Is there anything like that on these supras or do I have to take it to a shop????

ok really long shot
 

I ran into the same problem when I rebuilt the engine the in my 86.5 b ut mine was a stupid mistake. But the only thing is it was doing the same thing you are describing which makes me wonder. get the car in somewhere dark and then start it up and while you are under the hood hold it at a rev while looking at the exhaust manifold if it is glowing then check all your flanges like your intake manifold flanges and make sure there is nothing stuck in them making a huge vaccum leak. I only tell you all of this because one of my VSV's got stuck between the flange on the lower intake number 2(the middle curve) and made such a huge vaccum leak and it would not stay running. Also you run into a running really lean and it will make the exhaust manifold glow red so dont run it long because this is really bad for it, it will glow real quick. But as everyone else was saying it sounds like a horrible vaccum leak so start looking there. And as for the checking engine codes it is really simple you need a short wire and get under the hood and look for the check engine port on the driver sside behind the battery. Put the wire between the T and E1 port look at the lable on the top of the cap on the port and then get in the car and turn it on to ACC then count the blinks there will be a pause and a succesion of blinks like 3 then 5 then a longer pause so then your code would be 35 which there isnt one but you get the picture.

I noticed my manifold was really hot. Maybe thats what happened to me? Does anyone have a list of codes? That would be very helpful. Thanks again guys.

Well damn I got 3 codes 24 - Intake Air Tempature Sensor Signal 41 - Throttle Position Sensor Signal and 52 - Knock Sensor Signal Oh and on my 89 it was bridging E1 and TE1. But thanks for all your guys' help. What do you think of the codes?

this may sound like a bad idea.. but it happened to mine. the idle screw wasnt out far enough and it was idling too low? hopefully its something as simple as that. good luck

Bumpin fo help. lol.