where did i go wrong
 

ok i have a HKS BOV SSQV, it came with a straight pipe with the flange welded on it, i have this flange put onto the IC pipes up by where the Filterbox is then i blocked off the pipe comeing from the 3000 pipe to the air filter hose with a soild metal cylinder, bought a longer hose for the vacume line and ran is from the stock location of what the bypass valve was hooked up to and ran it to the HKS bov. now when im driving it is cutting out like crazy bogging? fuel cut? boost leak somewhere?

if it may be a boost leak where would be some prone spots to look, and also i would like to add that i am venting to the atmosphere and not useing a HKS recirculation kit if anyone needs a picture please ask i will start taking them :)

leave the stock bov hooked up and have the hks one hooked up separately. if you need to have a 3 prong vacum thing to let you hook two vacum lines to the stock location. i plugged up my bov one time and it ran like shit and wouldn't go past 40 mph. so i would reccomend not plugging it up for some reason it screws everything up.

pictures
 

well ill post some pics anyways

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0930061419.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...0930061420.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...930061420a.jpg


PIC 1: just an overall shot of the setup
PIC 2: the pipe im useing to block off the pipes
PIC 3: i poped open my hood yesterday and this was smokeing, the little rubber houseing AHHH THE PAIN

so where am i wrong on this

justin i did have it hooked up like that and it was still running the same theres something wrong

also block the 3000 pipe and intake pipe separately do not join them

we have that same bov and flange pipe on another car here and the bov is loose which will cause a boost leak, make sure it is not loose "at all" as this will cause cutting

have you done a diagnostic?
you do realise that a diagnostic will tell you what is wrong with your car, it is an extremely useful tool that toyota decided to put in our cars ;)

when you hooked up that bov y did u block off all those pipes?

well i was told at my local performance shop to block off those pipes, im not shur really what they do, but just a good guess is that the 3000 pipe blows air while the other one sucks, i dont see why a diagnostics would be in hand considering there is no check engine light on at all, will it still work even though the light is not on?

its really starting to get worse the exhaust is starting to smell bad to the point of where it is burning my nose when you rev it

errr this is really starting to bug me now, mmm suppra how would you say to seal that loose BOV, i mean i could like maby silicone it or something cause im not planning on driving it anymore till i get this issue fixed. and is this bov an issue since im only running the stock amout of boost im reading maby 7-8psi right now its reading about 3-4psi and then it starts to spudder like crazy

p.s. i also noticed some oil spots on my engine cover dont know what type of oil it is, but i did check my engine oil and it was reading almost nothing and just had it done at my mobile 1 about 1 month ago. so im feeling either its leaking or burning
AHHH i cant have this car die yet.

get some oil in there asap altho it may be too late :(

you will need to get a thicker o-ring if the bov is loose
just see if you can wiggle it, if so.. it's loose therefore buy a thicker o-ring

yes diagnosis does not always throw a check engine light... you may still have codes stored

most importantly.. block those pipes how i told you, not how you have them
i shall explain

air gets sucked in through the turbo, to the intercooler up to the 3000 pipe meanwhile the turbo is sucking the air that is in the 3000 pipe back through to the turbo due to you having it joined
i.e no air is basically getting to the engine, it is overfueling like a mofo and can't run properly

maybe my drawing will help some
http://www.supra.co.nz/piping.jpg

oh hang on... is that pipe solid? as in no hole in the center?

if so... then do a diagnostic

solid pipe

ok i did the diagnostics, and man thats a sweet deal, nice not having to drive to a dealership, um

while the engine is running i got a flash flash .. flash flash "water temp. sensor signal"?

while just in the on possition it did the same flash flash .. flash flash with a long pause then flash flash .. flash flash

heres a link to a video of the light

check engine light

in order to play this you may need quick time and a codec for .3gpp2 files

but try to play it anyways

saw the video...its a code 22.

how do i fix this sensor, and where is it located

may i also mention i just talked to a person at my local theater who was driving a 87 supra turbo if he had any knowlege on the car, and his reply back was 4 motor swaps :) he said it sounded like a boost leak garenteed.

so where would i find this boost leak, where should i be looking for this, and is it possible that the o-ring gasket on the BOV could cause such harm? and is there anything wrong with the way i have blocked off the original pipe?

plus where can i find the HKS 3000 pipe and chrome valve covers?

you can just have the valve covers powder coated. as for the hks 3000 pipe, you see them for sell every once and a while, havent seen a shop or store that sells them.

i was just curious as to what the light was beside the check engine light. my car doesnt have that and i couldnt read what it was in the video

its a antilock brake light

could someone tell me where they might think my boost leak may be?

ive put the stock bypass back on and its still running like crap, so would you say its where the BOV is on the IC pipeing? the o-ring

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1003062034.jpg

well i have put the original one back on with a T adaptor and now running vacume lines to both the Bypass and BOV and its still running like crap, ive tested my bypass and it does stay shut up intill vacume is on it then it opens wide open. nightvision camera COOL! i dont know where to even look for any problems should i just give it up and bring it to a mechanic.oh and i put 1 quart of oil and now its full again, still have 2 extra just in case. still running like poopy and i went to many places yesterday, shucks/autozone/home depot/ lowes and no one had a thinker version of the o-ring. so i just used some sylicone for it and it looks like it should do good i need to add a tad bit more and then ill test it see if thats where my leaking was comeing from, cause i cant here any hissing :(

again everyone i really want to thank you guys for all of your help, im sorry if i have been bugging you on this subject, but you guys are all smarter than me on the supra, im coming from the world of domestics to import and there is a huge diffrent in the engines but bassically the same setups.
thanks again

if i was trying to find the boost leak, i would start the car, pop the hood, then rev the engine up and look/listen

Yipee!!
 

well id like to say thanks for everyones help once again, i would also like to put that it ended up being a missfireing, 4 spark plugs were F$%ked up and my wires where pretty shot, put some new ones in last night and its running like a champ, my performance shop also plugged the 3000 pipe up with a lug nut, and left the other one to the air filter unplugged and it doesnt bog or cut nothing runs like a champ, and i love that great feeling of pushing on the throttle fully :)
and now the BOV is even working. i think i need more boost though the BOV is a low pitch sound, like someone with their mouth wide open and blowing out still better than it was :)

I hearsd about a guy who put a modified Supercharger on his 89 supra. Is that possible he was in our car club. and could beaqt alot of peopel so i dunno.Is it really possible?

you must block the intake one or it will suck in unmetered air you will run lean and blow it up

so block that up ;)

thats the weird thing its not running lean at all, its running like it did when i bought it. perfect. exhaust smells great well not really but normal at least. ill put a gauge in there to see how its running

hi you need cut off recirculation pipe where the old bov use to be, i can take picture off mine to show how it should be if you want and also you have not got the right hks kit because the pipe that come with hks kit should replace the hole rubber pipe for intake

how he had it was fine

3000 pipe blocked and intake blocked

i have told him to change how the "performance shop" told him to route it as now he has a leak in the intake and will be running lean
hopefully he has corrected this

also.. once again, if you think the bov might be the cause
wiggle the damn thing... if it moves.. it's loose and you need a bigger o-ring which goes inside the flange

altho it may not be the way most do it, its still going to work :)

altho pics of yours would be nice anyhow ;)

ok
 

so wait you want me to to block both the 3000 and the intake, or else my block will go bomb? my Bov dont wiggle anymore cause i couldnt find a bigger o-ring so i just used some silicone to seal up the bov flange. so there is no leaking there, so far it is running great, no cutting out exhaust smells somewhat fine, gas mileage still seems right, nothing wrong running at all, i still havent tryed to block that intake pipe since the repair, ive got an extra lugnut to block it off so ill give it a try.

oh and please do post some pictures of your BOV setup

if you have a hole venting/sucking to atmosphere in your intake you MUST block it

here's how the list works

air filter
afm
intake
turbo
intercooler
throttle body
intake manifold
combustion

now after the air filter you have the afm (the air METER device) it measures how much air is coming into your engine so it can squirt in the right amount of fuel for the air that you sucked in

BUT

you have an extra hole in your intake AFTER your air metering device which when your turbo sucks in air now it is not only sucking air from the filter it is now sucking in unmetered air

too much air = not enough fuel

the ecu is only putting in enough fuel to support the air it metered not the air you sucked in afterward

so to sum it all up
answer = detonation = pitting in the pistons = (depending on boost) meltdown of internal engine parts = new engine

not a fun exercise ;)

silicon on those sorts of parts is not recommended.... you can get a new o-ring from anywhere, you just take them yours and ask for a thicker one but same diameter

so are you still having misfiring problems or are they gone?

wow that was a great explaination to how that all works, i understand it all now. i did look for a thicker o-ring and i coulndt find jack. thats why i siliconed it, its not mis-fireing/bogging/cutting at all, its driving great, but ill plug up that pipe with the lug nut that the shop forgot to take out of my engine compartment after they were done :) now for one last question, if i was to get a boost controller how far would i be able to get my stock turbo to push, its only doing 6-7 lbs right now. and also what would be a good boost contoler to get, and im also kinda on a budget right now so maby a cheaper one also :) thanks again

fyi ct26 arent for high boost, after like 13, 14 psi they start to become inefficient. also any manual boost controller would work, unless you want something you adjust on the go or electronic or high priced, w/e. sure you can find on ebay...