new clutch

thechori · 10-28-2006, 03:54 PM

i've got an 89' n/a, do you guys have any suggestions for a good clutch (i'm not planning on going big HP, can't afford it)? also a cheap reliable place to get one? any feedback appreciated ;]

oh yea, how hard would it be to change my own clutch? i've never really done any deep engine stuff before..what procedures/tools would i need to get the job done?

jfunez · 11-07-2006, 03:30 AM

I used to live in west houston...lol

you can go stock toyota clutch disk and throwout bearing,as far as tools. the more you have the better.

rnoswal · 11-07-2006, 01:51 PM

Any parts store has good enough stuff, but to be sure the original stuff is better quality. You have to have a place to work on the car and a manual for the car. You will have to jack the car up pretty high to get the trans out with a good transmission jack. You may have to drop the exhaust first too. It is not a hard job, but some of the bell housing bolts are a bitch to get at. The wiring is straight forward at least.

Drain the tranny first then remove the shifter. Disconnect the battery because you will have to remove the starter. Take all the wiring off and speedo cable. At this time you will be able to determin if you need to drop the exhaust or not. Some of the bellhousing bolts on the exhaust side are very hard to get at with the exhaust on still. Take the drive shaft out, if you didn't drain the trans oil it will make a mess.

You have to support the transmission and the engine so the engine won't drop down too far in the back when you do remove the tranny. You should remove the cross bar and the engine/trans support mounts too. Like I mentioned earlier, the upper bolts, especially the starter bolts are a MAJOR pain! It might be easier to remove the rear egr pipe to get at the bolts and if possible, cut the pipes and just block that hole off with a trimmed egr fitting.

Remove the slave cylinder. Support the tranny and remove all the bolts. With much swearing and sweating the tranny should slide back and then out. It is a heavy beast so wear gloves and have a helper to help with the swearing an manouvering of the tranny.

When it is out, you really do need to get the flywheel resurfaced, no matter what and then replace the rear main crank seal. Replace the pilot shaft bearing too.

Replacing everything is just eh reverse. Make sure you torque the flywheel, you can use the old flywheel bolts if you want, but new ones are cheap. Put the pilot in the clutch disc and tighten the pressure plate uniformly until it is tight, making sure the pilot is loose to pull in and out when the bolts are tight. Remove the pilot, put the tranny in gear and prepare to swear a bunch when putting it back in. You can slide the drive shaft back in to turn the shaft to get the output shaft to line up with the clutch disc splines. But first, lightly grease the output shaft to help it slide into the new clutch, NOT KY jelly either.....;-}.

Make sure you put oil back in the tranny when it gets bolted back up. I have done this by myself and with help. Much better with help and a concrete floor.

Good luck

Russ

tone loc · 11-07-2006, 03:59 PM

tools you need are a jack, transmission jack (buy or rent the one adaptable to a regular jack), jack stands a really nice socket set (most of the hard bolts are 14mm), get 2 14mm wrenchs too, and if your exhaust is really rusted badly you have to cut the bolts that are holding the cat to the downpipe. i took it to a shop to get that done and they used like a grinder to just grind them off($22). driveshaft you can just put a 14mm wrench or the rachet and just get out from under the car put your foot on the wrench and put pressure on it.(it will come losse.) when you get all the bolts loose then use a mallet and hit it a few times and it will come off. im working on the starter right now so thats all i can tell you.

tone loc · 11-07-2006, 04:27 PM

rnoswol how did you get the last starter bolt off? i got the one you can see from under the car but what about the one on the other side of the little lump on the bellhousing.

thechori · 11-07-2006, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnoswal

Any parts store has good enough stuff, but to be sure the original stuff is better quality. You have to have a place to work on the car and a manual for the car. You will have to jack the car up pretty high to get the trans out with a good transmission jack. You may have to drop the exhaust first too. It is not a hard job, but some of the bell housing bolts are a bitch to get at. The wiring is straight forward at least.

Drain the tranny first then remove the shifter. Disconnect the battery because you will have to remove the starter. Take all the wiring off and speedo cable. At this time you will be able to determin if you need to drop the exhaust or not. Some of the bellhousing bolts on the exhaust side are very hard to get at with the exhaust on still. Take the drive shaft out, if you didn't drain the trans oil it will make a mess.

You have to support the transmission and the engine so the engine won't drop down too far in the back when you do remove the tranny. You should remove the cross bar and the engine/trans support mounts too. Like I mentioned earlier, the upper bolts, especially the starter bolts are a MAJOR pain! It might be easier to remove the rear egr pipe to get at the bolts and if possible, cut the pipes and just block that hole off with a trimmed egr fitting.

Remove the slave cylinder. Support the tranny and remove all the bolts. With much swearing and sweating the tranny should slide back and then out. It is a heavy beast so wear gloves and have a helper to help with the swearing an manouvering of the tranny.

When it is out, you really do need to get the flywheel resurfaced, no matter what and then replace the rear main crank seal. Replace the pilot shaft bearing too.

Replacing everything is just eh reverse. Make sure you torque the flywheel, you can use the old flywheel bolts if you want, but new ones are cheap. Put the pilot in the clutch disc and tighten the pressure plate uniformly until it is tight, making sure the pilot is loose to pull in and out when the bolts are tight. Remove the pilot, put the tranny in gear and prepare to swear a bunch when putting it back in. You can slide the drive shaft back in to turn the shaft to get the output shaft to line up with the clutch disc splines. But first, lightly grease the output shaft to help it slide into the new clutch, NOT KY jelly either.....;-}.

Make sure you put oil back in the tranny when it gets bolted back up. I have done this by myself and with help. Much better with help and a concrete floor.

Good luck

Russ

thanks alot for that, if i can maybe get a friend that has a little more experience i'll see if my boss'll let me use the lift at work. but if all falls through i guess i'll just pay someone to do it for me :[

10-28-2006, 03:54 PM	#1
thechori 3" Exhaust Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: west houston Posts: 57	new clutch i've got an 89' n/a, do you guys have any suggestions for a good clutch (i'm not planning on going big HP, can't afford it)? also a cheap reliable place to get one? any feedback appreciated ;] oh yea, how hard would it be to change my own clutch? i've never really done any deep engine stuff before..what procedures/tools would i need to get the job done?

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11-07-2006, 03:30 AM	#2
jfunez 12psi boost Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: georgia,usa Posts: 338	I used to live in west houston...lol you can go stock toyota clutch disk and throwout bearing,as far as tools. the more you have the better.

11-07-2006, 01:51 PM	#3
rnoswal Lexus & 550's Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bossier City LA Posts: 556	Any parts store has good enough stuff, but to be sure the original stuff is better quality. You have to have a place to work on the car and a manual for the car. You will have to jack the car up pretty high to get the trans out with a good transmission jack. You may have to drop the exhaust first too. It is not a hard job, but some of the bell housing bolts are a bitch to get at. The wiring is straight forward at least. Drain the tranny first then remove the shifter. Disconnect the battery because you will have to remove the starter. Take all the wiring off and speedo cable. At this time you will be able to determin if you need to drop the exhaust or not. Some of the bellhousing bolts on the exhaust side are very hard to get at with the exhaust on still. Take the drive shaft out, if you didn't drain the trans oil it will make a mess. You have to support the transmission and the engine so the engine won't drop down too far in the back when you do remove the tranny. You should remove the cross bar and the engine/trans support mounts too. Like I mentioned earlier, the upper bolts, especially the starter bolts are a MAJOR pain! It might be easier to remove the rear egr pipe to get at the bolts and if possible, cut the pipes and just block that hole off with a trimmed egr fitting. Remove the slave cylinder. Support the tranny and remove all the bolts. With much swearing and sweating the tranny should slide back and then out. It is a heavy beast so wear gloves and have a helper to help with the swearing an manouvering of the tranny. When it is out, you really do need to get the flywheel resurfaced, no matter what and then replace the rear main crank seal. Replace the pilot shaft bearing too. Replacing everything is just eh reverse. Make sure you torque the flywheel, you can use the old flywheel bolts if you want, but new ones are cheap. Put the pilot in the clutch disc and tighten the pressure plate uniformly until it is tight, making sure the pilot is loose to pull in and out when the bolts are tight. Remove the pilot, put the tranny in gear and prepare to swear a bunch when putting it back in. You can slide the drive shaft back in to turn the shaft to get the output shaft to line up with the clutch disc splines. But first, lightly grease the output shaft to help it slide into the new clutch, NOT KY jelly either.....;-}. Make sure you put oil back in the tranny when it gets bolted back up. I have done this by myself and with help. Much better with help and a concrete floor. Good luck Russ

11-07-2006, 03:59 PM	#4
tone loc 20psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Chicago Posts: 706	tools you need are a jack, transmission jack (buy or rent the one adaptable to a regular jack), jack stands a really nice socket set (most of the hard bolts are 14mm), get 2 14mm wrenchs too, and if your exhaust is really rusted badly you have to cut the bolts that are holding the cat to the downpipe. i took it to a shop to get that done and they used like a grinder to just grind them off($22). driveshaft you can just put a 14mm wrench or the rachet and just get out from under the car put your foot on the wrench and put pressure on it.(it will come losse.) when you get all the bolts loose then use a mallet and hit it a few times and it will come off. im working on the starter right now so thats all i can tell you.

11-07-2006, 04:27 PM	#5
tone loc 20psi boost Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Chicago Posts: 706	rnoswol how did you get the last starter bolt off? i got the one you can see from under the car but what about the one on the other side of the little lump on the bellhousing.