still getting code 52
 

ok i fixed both knock sensor and i found were the wire goes to on the knock sensor close to the firewall. everthing is fixed for code 52.
the thing is after fixing the knock sensor and the wire im still getting code 52. its making me so mad too. what is it that im missing...

this has been a problem for me now for 2 months. i cant get it on since i cant get it smoged till the check engine light is off.

plz help. anthing that you think im missing "post"

88 turbo

check the vsv switches near the knock sensors

one for egr <----- probably toast
one for fuel

a simple continuity check
see the manual for exact specs
about $35 each

I just fixed mine today. Did you get the right wires?
I didn't notice any gain really.

dothey check your codes when they do the smog test? if not and thats all thats keeping you from passing, maybe take that light out from the dash, get it passed, and fix the car after. unless they check then that wouldnt help at all.

well im going to take it to a guy who knows a guy that will just pass me in CA. its just ticks me off that i have done everything that in the books on how to fix this and i cant get the stupied light out. im going to take a look at the egr. what the size of wire is everyone using?

have u tried reseting your ecu? just remove the ground from the battery terminal for about five minutes, then reconnect and start it up.

You should be able to buy enough time with the light off by pulling the EFI fuse from the front fuse box for at least 15 minutes just prior to testing the car.

It will stay inactive for at least an hour of drive time.
Jim

Just asking this makes me think you got the wrong wire.

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69
There is also a link on the top of this site that has a somewhat more detailed fix.
It tells you everything you need.

from what i read its says that you sould us speaker wire and then wrap it with a gard.

no...use a shielded wire as said on this link

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69

I did mine,not with this kind of wire but nevertheless, it was shielded. dont forget to ground it close to the pcm...there is a 10 mm bolt on the dash beam..remove it and ground it with that bolt. it it very easy, the hardest part is getting the connector off from the knock sensor close to the starter.

some people say they dont notice A difference in power after the repair, but I noticed a big difference when accelerating and under boost. it now feels like it revs freely and quicker. before it would hesitate a bit under boost and you could also feel like a fishbite under boost. If you noticed this let me know also..