Starting Problems

[turbo jim]

Please help i have a Supra 3.0 turbo with a wierd starting problem.

If the car is started from cold it will start within 1 second every time. If i go out for a run in the car and try to restart it it sometimes will not restart no matter how long i try and i have to leave it for about 5 - 6 hours before it will restart or push start it.

The car sounds as if it is on the edge of starting but does not quite get there.

Does anyone have any ideas ?

Thanks Jim

[jfunez]

check for codes first dude....

[turbo jim]

How do i check the codes do i need to go to a service center ?

Also if i start the car from cold the revs idle at 1000 rpm and runs ok if left switched on.


If i run the car for 5 mins and restart it it idles at 500 rmp and can cut out and needs to be run for 10 - 15 mins before the car will idle at around 1000rpm without cutting out.

I have changed the plugs but still no joy.

Any ideas please ?

Thanks

[Ungoliant]

Well, from my experience with cars in general, your starting problem (Where it's turning, but not quite igniting enough) could be one of the following:

Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Plug wires
Rotor/Rotor Cap
Distributor

If I'm leaving something out, let me know.

The other one sounds like an idle problem, but I may be wrong.

[IHateHacks]

To check the codes you must jumper terminals E1 and TE1 at the diagnostic connector (behind the battery). Then turn the igniton on but do not start it and watch the check engine light flash. Count how many times it flashes then pauses and flashes again and you will have your trouble code(s). If it just flashes 4 times a second you have no codes.


Usually when an engine won't start when hot it's ignition related. Here's what I'd do-

First you will need a multi-meter. It's a tool to measure resistance, voltage, and amperage.

Drive the car till its warm and go somewhere to work on it. Measure the resistance of each spark plug wire. Maximum resistance is 25,000 Ohms per wire or 25K Ohms.

If that is ok next will be to inspect the power source to each coil pack. With the ignition in the on position and the plug wire disconnected from the coil, disconnect the connectors at the coils and measure the voltage between terminal 2 and ground (terminal 2 is the one farthest from the connector release clip). You should have approximately 12V at all three coils.

If that is ok then you can inspect the primary coil resistance. Between terminals 1 and 2 of the coil itself there should be between .3-.6 ohms of resistance.

If that is ok then you can inspect the ignition coil ground by using the ohmmeter and making sure there is no continuity between the coil terminal 2 and ground.

If any of these tests fail, that coil is bad or there is a problem with the wiring harness (if there's not 12V present).

If all of these tests check out ok you can test the igniter and the cam position sensor. But I think thats enough to get you started, if you want info on how to test the igniter or cam sensor just let me know.

[marc]

it sounds liek one of the windings in ur ignition coil might have broke sum where, that explains why it would start at cold, but when the car warms up and the coil heats up, the metal will sexpand and create a gap on the winding. i dk. but i agree w them, do a diagnostics 1st


marc

[javan23]

im havining the same problems what was it

[Bill UK]

See post 2 Link