help w headgasket selection.
 

hey guys. liek i said i blew my head gasket and wanna put a metal one in. im doin it all myself w sum help from a friend. im lookin to put the metal oen in and have a quention. r the metal headgaskets u all used made of steel? or what r they made of? cause if so i found an ideal set.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-92...QQcmdZViewItem

would that be what im lookin for?

thanks guys
marc

or this 1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...QQcmdZViewItem

any1..anybody at all?

Here's what I see. The first one says its a MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket, that's not a solid metal head gasket like the HKS's. So its a good gasket set but don't buy it if you are looking for a solid metal head gasket. That second one is for a non-turbo only so you can ditch that one.

titan motorsports metal headgasket....it works fine so far..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-92...QQcmdZViewItem

it says multi layered steel , but the other ones, liek the other metal hg for sale also say multi laytered. is multi layered no good?

see here. http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...e/Head_Gaskets
the hks mhg offered by horse power freaks is also multi layered steel.

whats better to use, arp bolts, or studs. and y?


thanks
marc

studs
better, more even clamping power
but harder to work with while engine in bay

On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it's probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car. For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being twisted while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a relaxed mode, never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. The stud should be installed finger tight then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis.

Studs are much more difficult to install with the engine in the car, but are stronger and less prone to stretching. Head Bolts will be easier to install with the engine in the car, but are not reccomended for high-boost applications. On the 7MGTE engine, the most common source of headgasket failure is due to the factory head bolts stretching and failing, therefore, when replacing a headgasket, ARP hardware is a must.


JSCSpeed.com gets credit for this.

well im keeping my engine in my car, and never plan on running more than 25lbs thru it. so botls or studs? im buyin them today.

im just ganna go bolts

I may need some education here ,I don't know a ton about turbos but 25 lbs boost sounds pretty intense.By my calculations that would put you at a little over 14:1 compression ratio under full boost.Although according to wikipedia that's an ideal ratio ,wouldn't you need to run race fuel for that?

First of all if you are running anywhere close to 20psi you will need more than head studs, a metal head gasket and race gas. You will need rods, ARP rod bolts, pistons, lexus maf, 550's, walbro pump, and something to tune it, at least a S-AFC. But to do it properly "I" would strip the block, send it to a shop, do it right.

Use bolts only if you are going to keep it fairly stock, like no more than 10psi. If you are using a metal head gasket then don't skimp out, use head studs.

lol ok realasticly maybe 18 lol. i wwouldnt run that much with this car. a future one def tho.

and that wont be any time soon.

k studs it is.

Just remember what I said in the last post on the first page of this thread.

"Studs are much more difficult to install with the engine in the car, but are stronger and less prone to stretching. Head Bolts will be easier to install with the engine in the car, but are not reccomended for high-boost applications."

It's a 2 way street. Studs are very hard to install with the block in the car but will hold up to alot of abuse. Bolts are VERY easy to install but are not meant for high boost.

Thats why I just used bolts, very easy.

It's not like that for all cars. Like transverse mounted engines such as an EVO, studs are no harder to install than bolts because the head doesn't have to clear the firewall.

y are studs so much harder?

hacks how old r u? im 17 and im ganna be doin this pretty much all myself, i have ebnough knowledge of cars to be confortable doing it. i wonder if this is a record or sumthing lol.

Age doesn't matter. It's experience that counts. If you really want to know just look in my profile.

They are "harder" because when the studs are installed in the block and the block is installed in the car, the head will not clear the firewall. And vice versa, if you wanted to take the head off with ARP studs installed with the block in the car you won't be able to. You would have to pull the motor to take the head off if you use ARP studs. You can try to install the studs after you fit the head on the dowel pins on the block. ARP studs might or might not have a small allen hole in the top of the stud to allow you to install the stud with the head in place. Some do, like my friends EVO. He installed ARP head studs and they had an allen wrench hole.

I hope you understand what I'm trying to say.

i am, but how od u torque an allen head to 80lbs/ft2

you have to get an allen socket. I would recommend somthing like a snap on socket so you dont take a chance of stripping out the bolt head.

First of all, if you've been reading my blown head gasket post, ARP bolts are 12 point 1/2" socket size. Stock head bolts use the 10mm allen head socket. And obivously the ARP stud nuts would not be allen head. So if you are reusing the stock bolts or using new stock bolts then you will need a 10mm allen head 3/8" drive socket. I bought one for $4.65 from NAPA and it fit perfectly. If you are using ARP bolts then you will need a 1/2", 12 point, 3/8" drive, shallow socket. I bought one at NAPA for $2.99 and it fits perfectly. The only thing Snap-on I'd suggest is their 3/8" drive digital torque wrench.

im not doin bolts, im goin studs

Then why are you asking how to torque allen head bolts?

And if you don't know how to torque allen head bolts I highly suggest you let a professional work on your vehicle.

I can just see you now trying to remove the stock head bolts with an allen wrench.

And if you are asking how to torque an ARP head stud with an allen hole, the answer is you don't. I feel like I'm talking to a wall but I'll repeat myself once again.

A stud should be installed in a relaxed mode, never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. The stud should be installed finger tight.

In your case I was suggesting you use an allen wrench to INSTALL the stud with the head lined up on the dowel pins. Try fitting your fingers down in the head enough to turn the studs, not happening. So you "SIMULATE" using your fingers by using an allen wrench to "THREAD" the stud into the block.

thank u that all i needed to know. i thought u torques the stud into the block. my mistake.

Your welcome. Sorry I'm sounding kind of harsh.

If I was done with my car, I'd come up and give you a hand with yours seeing as you are not that far away.

yea sorry just wasnt readin them, but ill start this once the weathers nice, im puttin my new bumbper on today. i got a 91 bumper for it. itsp primed right now and looks sexy as hell lol.