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Old 01-08-2007, 11:28 AM   #1
marc
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Default help w headgasket selection.

hey guys. liek i said i blew my head gasket and wanna put a metal one in. im doin it all myself w sum help from a friend. im lookin to put the metal oen in and have a quention. r the metal headgaskets u all used made of steel? or what r they made of? cause if so i found an ideal set.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-92...QQcmdZViewItem

would that be what im lookin for?

thanks guys
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:35 AM   #2
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or this 1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...QQcmdZViewItem
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nothing but the best
-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 01-09-2007, 11:26 AM   #3
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any1..anybody at all?
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-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 01-09-2007, 04:40 PM   #4
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Here's what I see. The first one says its a MLS (multi layer steel) head gasket, that's not a solid metal head gasket like the HKS's. So its a good gasket set but don't buy it if you are looking for a solid metal head gasket. That second one is for a non-turbo only so you can ditch that one.
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Old 01-12-2007, 03:25 AM   #5
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titan motorsports metal headgasket....it works fine so far..
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Old 01-13-2007, 03:54 AM   #6
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-92...QQcmdZViewItem

it says multi layered steel , but the other ones, liek the other metal hg for sale also say multi laytered. is multi layered no good?
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Old 01-13-2007, 04:01 AM   #7
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see here. http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric...e/Head_Gaskets
the hks mhg offered by horse power freaks is also multi layered steel.
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K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:38 AM   #8
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whats better to use, arp bolts, or studs. and y?


thanks
marc
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-mods- so far
K&N intake fipk
3" megan downpipe
3"turbo elbow
4 washers on the wastegate
highflow cat
short shifter
89+ front bumper, pic soon to come
many more upgrades soon
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Old 01-23-2007, 02:18 PM   #9
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Cool

studs
better, more even clamping power
but harder to work with while engine in bay
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:02 PM   #10
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On many street-driven vehicles, where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine compartment, it's probably necessary to use head bolts so that the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car. For most applications, however, studs are recommended. And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder head and gasket assured of proper alignment. Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being twisted while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a relaxed mode, never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. The stud should be installed finger tight then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis.

Studs are much more difficult to install with the engine in the car, but are stronger and less prone to stretching. Head Bolts will be easier to install with the engine in the car, but are not reccomended for high-boost applications. On the 7MGTE engine, the most common source of headgasket failure is due to the factory head bolts stretching and failing, therefore, when replacing a headgasket, ARP hardware is a must.


JSCSpeed.com gets credit for this.
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