01-27-2007, 09:37 PM | #1 |
walbro fp
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: arizona
Posts: 432
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Did a diagnostic.
Well the problem with the car is that its hard to start in the mornings and my Idle is like at 1500 to 2000, but sometimes it drops to normal working RPM's.
These are the codes I got: Code 22 Code 25 (not sure) Code 26 Code 52 I was thinking maybe code 22 maybe(water temp sensor signal) causing some of my problems, but im not sure.
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MK3, Auto, Turbo. |
01-28-2007, 12:01 AM | #2 |
3" Exhaust
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Cleveland OH
Posts: 129
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Is the idle that high most the time ,or just during warm up? That's still high even for warm-up ,just wondering.Unfortunately my book is hiding or I'd know what the codes meant...
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1988 Supra - N/A 5 speed 1974 'Cuda - 318 2001 Cherokee |
01-28-2007, 12:49 AM | #3 |
walbro fp
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: arizona
Posts: 432
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I think i found where the problem is. Just right now I moved my wiring from the air box sensor while the car was at high idle and the car just rapidly dropped the Rpm's at normal working conditions. Theres probably something wrong with one of the wires.
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MK3, Auto, Turbo. |
01-28-2007, 04:18 AM | #4 |
20psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: New Haven/Hamden
Posts: 793
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Code 22- Coolant temperature sensor signal
Code 25- (1988 California models only) Air-fuel ratio lean condition Code 26- (1988 California models only) Air-fuel ratio rich condition Code 52- Knock sensor signal I would check the coolant temperature sensor's resistance. Should be 4-6K ohms at 32 degrees F. The resistance should go down as the engine warms up. At 212 degrees F it should be .17-.22K ohms. So check it when its ice cold then check it when its fully warmed up. You will have to remove the PS reservoir to get to the sensor. If the resistance doesn't change or is not in the ranges I specified, the sensor is bad. You're on your own with the lean AND rich conditions. I would bet, since you said your not sure about the code 25, that it was 26 repeating twice and you missed a flash. That would make sense since a bad coolant temperature sensor usually defaults to completely rich (i.e. 20k ohms never changes). And for the last code, your knock sensor or knock sensor circuit is bad. The TSRM doesn't show you how to check the circuit so I can't help you there. |
01-29-2007, 04:11 AM | #5 | |
1000whp postwhore
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Mojave Desert, Calif.
Posts: 1,705
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Quote:
Then remove the EFI fuse for 10 minutes, in the fuse box next to the battery. This will clear all the codes. Start the car and let it idle for about 10-15 minutes, then drive it for about 20-30 min., city/neighborhood, and a bit of hwy. This will allow the computer to 're-learn' the system. Your problems may be gone now. If you are still having troubles, recheck for any codes, and follow the TSRM proceedures for each code pulled.
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Had a Red 1989 N/A. Automatic. Sports Pkg. w/wing. TEMS, and some nice MODS. Sold to a friend 10/08/08. |
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02-04-2007, 04:43 AM | #6 |
walbro fp
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: arizona
Posts: 432
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Finally fixed my Idle problem. It was the cooling temp sensor connection, it was connected backwards probably from the mechanic who fixed my BHG.
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