Somebody help me with my car!!!! calling all smart people

[mrnickleye]

Damit, I had nightmares after reading the above posts...NOT !

Do you have ABS ?? YES ? That may be where your problem air is.

Plugged off EVAP lines won't cause your running problem. Plugged off 'most' vacuum lines won't cause your problem.

Look for a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gaskets by (during idle) spraying some WD40 or brake cleaner spray along the gaskets.

Is the EGR stuck open ??

And actually, as you will learn in class sometime, the 7M PCV system is very functional, and virtually trouble free.

A PCV valve meters the air going into the intake on every engine that has one. The valves get oily and can plug up, which is VERY BAD for the engine.

The 7M's system has a fixed (calibrated, designed in) orifice that does the same thing. You should check the tubes and clean the orifice every year. A 5 minute job.

[f00g00]

I didn't see anything about your ISC valve. If its dirty or has a bad connection there is no telling where your idle will be. If its putting your idle too high and everything else is good then your system would normally cut the fuel when it gets too high and you would get the idle cycling up and down between 1600 to 2000 or so.

[IHateHacks]

What about checking the codes first? Or are you all just going to continue to guess and throw your 2 cents in what "might" be the problem. Yes, I understand OBD I is ancient and is very vague, but its a logical start. It's the first thing "real" techincians do when properly diagnosing an engine. Not ripping off the EGR to see if its stuck open or ripping off the ISC to clean it. I guess you all are too smart to check codes, oh yea I forgot you went to school for this so you are exempt from running diagnostics.

"racism is something we joke about."

And by the way, racism is nothing to joke about.

[mattfurlani]

The gasket should be fine, we just replaced it. But the EGR looks factory. My friends who work in a shop are going to look at it because i just don't have the time to fix it. I'm sure its nothing big. PLus they have a pressure bleeder. and no i don't have ABS

I think that running the code is just going to tell us where it is. I'm not saying its not a good idea but I allready know what the problem is but its just on what is causing it.


I don't want to hear anything else about whatever it is you got upset about IHATEHACKS. Look I know you don't know me but so you understand a little better you have to realize that I have probably endured a whole lot more shit than most people in america. My mother was killed by my father when I was 3 and I whitnessed it. The amount of mental diseases from that are like a mile long. I'm by no means of the imagination rich. I'm going blind and deaf. I'm a marine and veteran of war so i've lost friends and seen some people die. I lived with blacks, whites, hispanics, asians, and pretty much any other flora or fauna you can think of. Racism is funny because of the absolute wasted effort in hating someone because of their race. Its as dumb as all the other "isms" in the world. Its also equally as stupid to get upset about it. I'm also willing to agree with some of the other guys who monitor the threads by saying it needs no more attention.

[rnoswal]

Everyone has a life story to tell, but there is no reason to have to tell it to explain just why your problems with your car are magnified because of them. If you can't figure out your brake problems, especially with no ABS, then you are not qualified to work on them. If you think you finally got it and went cruising down the road and the brakes failed because you missed something, you are out of your area and explaining how and what to look for here is not going to help.


The guys and gals that offer assistance here have helped most of us and we are grateful to them, but they can't know it all and sometimes you just have to take it to a qualified mechanic to get it fixed properly. Ghetto fixing or definitions don't mean anything here where a normal handshake is more welcome than slapping hands.

The PCV system is well thought out and works as well as the old style american "valve" system, but as with them they do need attention and have to be handled differently than "just replacing the valve". There is going to be carbon throughout the system and all of those areas need to be cleaned. The system is not perfect and many have gone to a JAZ catch system to catch the candensed oil vapors before they go into the intake.

The brakes are something that has gone over your expertise and needs to be handled by a specialist. If you have replaced everything and still have a problem, then you have wasted time and money not diagnosing the problem correctly and STILL have the problem.

When you come into a strangers house, do not expect them to conform to your ways. Be polite, leave your attitude outside and try being a little humble. You will be surprised at the difference it shows to the people you are asking for help. Attitude won't help and your car is still not fixed.

Good luck

Russ

[abhattan]

If the car has ABS, like the other dude said, you might have air in the unit. First of all, make sure you only use DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. I don't care if it's high performance or whatever. If you have ABS, Only use these two types. DOT 5 will airate and cause the air or spongy feel. Maybe even loss of function. You also might have to look up a specific procedure for bleeding with ABS. It's not always the same as conventional brakes. I don't know what the procedre would be, but look it up on ALL DATA or SHOP KEY. I'm pretty sure your school has at least one of these internet reference tools available to you. As far as the extremely high idle, I'm not sure. If it were only a vacuum leak, it shouldn't be that high. O2 sensors only start working after normal engine operating temperatures are reached. Before that, the ECU depends mainly on the TPS, ECT and MAF. Check those out and see what's up.

[mrnickleye]

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

What about checking the codes first? Or are you all just going to continue to guess and throw your 2 cents in what "might" be the problem. Yes, I understand OBD I is ancient and is very vague, but its a logical start. It's the first thing "real" techincians do when properly diagnosing an engine. Not ripping off the EGR to see if its stuck open or ripping off the ISC to clean it. I guess you all are too smart to check codes, oh yea I forgot you went to school for this so you are exempt from running diagnostics.

"racism is something we joke about."

And by the way, racism is nothing to joke about.

He basically said he's not going to check for stored codes.
But my my, only 23, and totally arrogant. You'll learn, arrogance has no place on THIS forum. So play nice.

[mattfurlani]

yeah well i'm a friggin idiot. the bcalipers say L and R for a reason... i knew it was something simple.

yeah i got a new problem now. the inspectors refuse to inspect my car because the signal to the efi relay is dead so i just jump the circuit on the load side with a jumper wire. anybody had experience with testing the computer? i don't want to buy one and then put it in and find out its not the problem or fry it out...

[mattfurlani]

So It turns out most of my car problems were due to wire gremlins in the wiring harness and interior.

So much for any education or deductive reasoning.

Who needs that when it turned out to be random shit.

pshh

[grygst76]

have you tried to gravity bleed it?? works like a charm every time we had the same problems, gravity bleeding means jack your car up and take one caliper and open the bleeder and take the cover off the master, wait until it is a steady drip, and then rebleed it, then move to the next and keep doing it, you will go thru like 6 or 7 cans of fluid, but at the same time you will have brand new fluid in a 19 year old brake system!!!