shifting trouble
 

when i m driving and i take my foot off the gas pedal while in gear(manual), my entire car jerks. im thinking maybe a transmission mount is bad but honestly, im just guessing. does anyone know what might be the problem? it happens in every gear at every rpm.

I would check the mount and the carrier bearing on the drive line I have a heavily modified 5m-ge mk2 I go threw them Like crazy ive been looking for solid mounts for the motor and trans im about to weld them together

what/where is the carrier bearing? ive never heard of it.

your drive line connects from the back of the trans to the rear diff duh im sure you know that but in the middle there is a bracket that attaches to the body that the drive line somewhat floats in there is a rubber bushing that surrounds the drive line that keeps your drive line strait and absorbs vibration [img]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/faddy/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.jpg[/img]
http://www.penguinhosting.net/~bigmac/homepage/cars/faqs/driveshaft/driveshaft.html
I added the link as a visual aid you can remove the driveline thats easy and take it to your local custom driveline shop wile your at it get new ujoints this stuff is always overlooked by tuners but is critical for proper performance and piece of mind if you like launching your car at 5000to6000 rpm I know I do thats why I bought the damn thing

cool thanks. ill take a look at it soon

Pull the shaft and check the joints & bearing
 

My problem yesterday may assist you.

For about a week I noticed a little vibration in the seat, when I was 'first' taking off. It lasted only a moment, then was gone. Not in reverse.

I finally had some time, so I put it on the rack at work. I saw the center support bearing was sagging in the rubber donut. I tries prying one way then the other on each of the u-joints to see if I could see any play in them. (I've done many customers u-joints over the years).
Nothing. Everything 'looked' tight.

So...I removed the driveshaft. When I tried to move the u-joints around, all 3 had 'stiff' spots in them.
(factory joints seldom have grease fittings, so they had never been greased).

I took it over to the driveshaft shop (as I am way too busy to do them) and had all 3 joints replaced, and the support bearing, and balance the whole setup.
My cost was $197. retail is $300.

And I put a new output shaft seal in while the shaft was out. $8.

wtf
 

Is it me our did the guy who posted above just tell you the same thing i told you! lol

I was just trying to re-inforce what you were saying, with my personal experience. And my vibration wasn't even feeling very bad yet, but I pay attention to how it runs and feels, so I can catch things early.

And you are so right about the driveshaft being a component that is overlooked, usually only getting attention when it starts to fail (like mine).

My car is 18 yrs old next month, with 170k on it. I doubt the shaft has ever been repaired/replaced.

Probably the average supra shaft is still original (which does say something for the quality of Toyota u-joints).

thanks for all the advice guys. i havent had a chance to look at it yet, but i will let yall know whats up when i do.

so its definitely 57 here today so i got out to look at my car. i have a significant leak coming from where the transmission and the engine meet, by the oil pan. i couldnt move my driveshaft up more than maybe 1/8 of an inch, so i dont know what the jerking is. unless its just me being low on tranny oil sice i dont know how long its been leaking. also, where the transmission mount is, there is a gold bolt like thing coming from under the brace. that bolt like thing is sticking down about half an inch, should it be?

mine does that too but only when its cold

change it
 

damdog05 (quote) also, where the transmission mount is, there is a gold bolt like thing coming from under the brace. that bolt like thing is sticking down about half an inch, should it be?

I was gonna start a thread on just this question.

That "bolt" looking thing is NOT turnable. Last week I replaced my tranny mount (cost me $24, list $48).

I saw that the bolt is just a 'guide pin', so the rubber won't move too much to one side or the other. It was welded in place at the top (in the threaded nut) after it was installed at the factory.

I will say that if yours is down 1/2" or more, the rubber suports are worn out, so change the mount.

My car has another rubber piece that acts as a 'safety support' in the event that the trans mount wears out and lets the trans sag too low. Mine was not touching that rubber, but almost.

My car had a just a bit of engine vibration, that I could feel sometimes. Now I don't feel any vibration at all.

I took a 5 hr drive in the mtns last Sat. and it was totally smooth.

So I'd suggest changing the trans mount to everyone that hasn't done so.

about the leak. my room mate and i prolly have the tools and combined knowledge to drop the tranny and change the gasket but we live in an apartment complex so it would be done in a parking lot. i have 2 options. 1.try and do it in the parking lot or 2. my room mate works for kauffman tire and i would be able to use his discount at a store and have it done professionally. what is the difficulty level in doing this job? id need the car done in a few days. i cant afford to have it out of commision for more than that

The oil could be either engine oil coming from the rear main seal (crank seal), or the front trns seal.

You need to determine which it is. Engine oil, or gear oil.

Rear main seal is a hellofa job to do. Tranyy seal is a 'pull the trans' job. Not as difficult, but still a bunch of work.

Hopefully you'll have a friend that's removed a tranny help you the first time.

what exactly does manual trans fluid look like?

Where'd you find that mount for $24? I think I need one

I run a repair shop, so that's "my cost", from Parts Plus.
List is $48. The exact same part (exactly !!) at Kragen's was $48 my cost, List $105. You really have to shop around for the best prices.

Anchor 8218 [Transmission Mount]; With A340e-4at, W55-5MT, R154-5MT, W58-5MT; 1 Required Per Vehicle