Main pulley removal.

Kuban · 03-13-2007, 10:28 PM

Well im working on doing the front main seal. And i cant seem to get this thing off. The main bolt came off with out problems and then when i put the SST pulley puller on and started to pull of the pulley it got about 1/8th of an inch and it stopped. I figured i was hitting a rust ridge or something of the sort, so i bolted it back to operating position and spray the shit outta it with penitrating oil and tried it again to the same result. I tried just cranking the shit out of it and it actually started to turn the main bolt back in and left a pretty indentation on the bolt.

SupraDupra · 03-13-2007, 11:56 PM

I may not be real clear on the problem your having ,but when I was pulling my balancer off ,the main bolt on the puller was threading into the crank and pretty soon I was turning the whole engine. I took the pointy bit off the bolt because of clearance issues and it took me a minute to figure out what was going wrong. Is that similar to your problem?

IHateHacks · 03-14-2007, 12:31 AM

That's weird, my crank bolt was the b!tch and the pulley wasn't that hard.

When I removed mine, I didn't have to use the SST. I used a big flat head screwdriver and "walked" the pulley off. I got underneath the car and went from one "side" of the pulley to the other. It moves very slowly but it works. Took me about 30 minutes to get it off. You can check the progress by getting up and looking at the ridge that has the notch in it and seeing how far it has moved away from the lower timing cover.

Once it was off I put ARP moly lube on the bearing surface of the pulley and the crank nose. It slid right on and off by hand after that.

Kuban · 03-14-2007, 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SupraDupra

I may not be real clear on the problem your having ,but when I was pulling my balancer off ,the main bolt on the puller was threading into the crank and pretty soon I was turning the whole engine. I took the pointy bit off the bolt because of clearance issues and it took me a minute to figure out what was going wrong. Is that similar to your problem?

Well sort of. See i left the main bolt in but only threaded part way so i know it has room to go, i was checking on it. I called toyota like i said and they said i am doing it the correct way, and it should come right off.

See the previous owner of my car bought a jdm longblock and had it rebuilt by jasper perfomance in illinios. That was 30k miles ago. I should be having this much of an issue regardless.

Im just going to keep spraying penitrating oil on it. But the way its so tight just scares me. If all else ill take torche to it for a few second to see what that can do.

Kuban · 03-14-2007, 08:22 AM

Does anyone recommend anything i havent already listed? I soaked the pulley last night in every direction with penitrating oil, so im hoping that this morning it will be a little more forgiving or im busting out the propane.

SupraDupra · 03-14-2007, 01:01 PM

'fraid I haven't got a clue. The only time I've ever had difficulty is when I removed pullies with IHatehacks "walking" method. I would be leary of using a torch to heat it ,as you may damage the rubber seal on the balancer.

IHateHacks · 03-14-2007, 03:24 PM

You should not be having this much trouble. I suspect, by what you just said, that the last person to take it off (whoever rebuilt it) didn't torque the crank bolt to 195 ft/lbs (which would explain why you didn't have a problem taking it off) and since then, from running the engine like that, the crank pulley started to "spin" on the woodruff key on the crank and now the part of the key that doesn't contact the pulley is catching on the pulley when you try to pull it off. Its hard to explain but it happens on many cars, on 89-95 SHO motors its called crank cancer.

If you ever do get it off I bet the woodruff key will be in 2 or 3 pieces.

If you can't take it off the way I did with a screwdriver, something is not right.

03-13-2007, 10:28 PM	#1
Kuban 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 174	Main pulley removal. Well im working on doing the front main seal. And i cant seem to get this thing off. The main bolt came off with out problems and then when i put the SST pulley puller on and started to pull of the pulley it got about 1/8th of an inch and it stopped. I figured i was hitting a rust ridge or something of the sort, so i bolted it back to operating position and spray the shit outta it with penitrating oil and tried it again to the same result. I tried just cranking the shit out of it and it actually started to turn the main bolt back in and left a pretty indentation on the bolt.

03-13-2007, 11:56 PM	#2
SupraDupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Cleveland OH Posts: 129	I may not be real clear on the problem your having ,but when I was pulling my balancer off ,the main bolt on the puller was threading into the crank and pretty soon I was turning the whole engine. I took the pointy bit off the bolt because of clearance issues and it took me a minute to figure out what was going wrong. Is that similar to your problem? __________________ 1988 Supra - N/A 5 speed 1974 'Cuda - 318 2001 Cherokee

03-14-2007, 01:01 PM	#6
SupraDupra 3" Exhaust Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Cleveland OH Posts: 129	'fraid I haven't got a clue. The only time I've ever had difficulty is when I removed pullies with IHatehacks "walking" method. I would be leary of using a torch to heat it ,as you may damage the rubber seal on the balancer. __________________ 1988 Supra - N/A 5 speed 1974 'Cuda - 318 2001 Cherokee Last edited by SupraDupra; 03-14-2007 at 01:02 PM. Reason: spelling

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03-14-2007, 12:31 AM	#3
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	That's weird, my crank bolt was the b!tch and the pulley wasn't that hard. When I removed mine, I didn't have to use the SST. I used a big flat head screwdriver and "walked" the pulley off. I got underneath the car and went from one "side" of the pulley to the other. It moves very slowly but it works. Took me about 30 minutes to get it off. You can check the progress by getting up and looking at the ridge that has the notch in it and seeing how far it has moved away from the lower timing cover. Once it was off I put ARP moly lube on the bearing surface of the pulley and the crank nose. It slid right on and off by hand after that.

03-14-2007, 08:22 AM	#5
Kuban 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 174	Does anyone recommend anything i havent already listed? I soaked the pulley last night in every direction with penitrating oil, so im hoping that this morning it will be a little more forgiving or im busting out the propane.

03-14-2007, 03:24 PM	#7
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	You should not be having this much trouble. I suspect, by what you just said, that the last person to take it off (whoever rebuilt it) didn't torque the crank bolt to 195 ft/lbs (which would explain why you didn't have a problem taking it off) and since then, from running the engine like that, the crank pulley started to "spin" on the woodruff key on the crank and now the part of the key that doesn't contact the pulley is catching on the pulley when you try to pull it off. Its hard to explain but it happens on many cars, on 89-95 SHO motors its called crank cancer. If you ever do get it off I bet the woodruff key will be in 2 or 3 pieces. If you can't take it off the way I did with a screwdriver, something is not right.