codes 22 24 31 - Page 2

JunkerMK3gte · 04-07-2007, 06:17 AM

now, last i knew theres not a manifold out there for you to buy. all the other stuff you can peice together, but yeah money. i plan on getting stuff together(kits/ performance parts) but im sure you arent about to wait. look under bang for the buck page. if you plan on all new stuff. ebay the old. if the turbo is rebuildable, you should be able to make quite a bit of money

Reeves · 04-12-2007, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JunkerMK3gte

now, last i knew theres not a manifold out there for you to buy.

Last time i talked to Turbonetics they said they had some manifolds in stock. So i donno..

supramacist · 04-12-2007, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Hey I build turbo cars too and black smoke=fuel, too much of it I might add. Blue smoke=oil. White smoke=coolant/water.

Kidthunder if I were you, I'd get the ignition timing sorted out first. It is not hard if you know what you are doing. I can post a detailed procedure on how to find TDC and correctly install a CPS, but everytime I give out this info people don't care to use it or don't understand engine dynamics so they just ignore me. Let me know if you wanna correctly set your ignition timing yourself.

I am interested in this information. If you would be so kind.

IHateHacks · 04-12-2007, 03:36 PM

Ok you asked for it.

The crank pulley is keyed to the crank on the 7M with a woodruff key, so whenever the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover, the No.1 piston is at TDC. NOW, there are 2 TDC's on a 4 stroke engine, one on the exhaust stroke and one on the compression stroke. The TDC you need to install the CPS correctly is the one on the compression stroke. That is also the TDC when the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches on the inner timing belt cover. If you have the upper timing belt cover off and spin the crank by hand, you will see that for every 2 times the crank revolves, the cams revolve once. So you hit the 0 degree mark once and the cam gear marks line up, then you spin the crank again and hit the 0 degree mark and NOW the cam gear marks are 180 degrees to the notches on the inner timing belt cover. So what I am trying to explain is, you can't just line the crank up to the 0 on the cover and think you are at the correct TDC. Like I said there are 2 TDC's on every single 4 stroke engine whether its SOHC, DOHC or OHV. SO, the only way to know what is the correct TDC on a supra is, 1. take the upper timing belt cover off and line the crank to the 0 when the cams line up with the notches. Or 2. take the no.1 spark plug out, spin the crank by hand and listen for when air rushes out of the spark plug hole when the crank nears the 0 degree mark. When it rushes out, the valves are closed and the no.1 piston is on TDC of its compression stroke. If air does not rush out then the exhaust valves are open and its on the exhaust stroke.

Obviously the method with taking the upper timing cover off is easier but you have to take the thermostat housing off and then you need to buy coolant. Either way will work and then you can properly install the CPS by lineing up the drilled mark on the shaft with the groove on the CPS housing and you are done.

supramacist · 04-12-2007, 04:48 PM

Alright this makes sense and is basically what I have done. I followed the tsrm and I have 1 and 6 on the top. I guess I was hoping for more of an explanation on the distributor rotor. I marked mine on the dist and the head before I removed it. But I am sure my mark will no longer be on the head. How do I know if it is lined up sinse I am sure my marks will be gone due to the machine shop?

FYI..., I tried to send you a pm but your box is full to capacity. lol.

EDIT: my power steering pump also has a woodruff key. I had to shave it down with a file to make it fit.

IHateHacks · 04-12-2007, 05:25 PM

Ok forget about the marks you made on the head. That is only if you only removed the distributor and its so you don't have to set the ignition timing. When you get your head back and bolt it back on, make sure the crank is dead even with the 0 degree mark and install the timing belt with the cam marks lined up (Im sure you know all of this, just making sure). Then when you put the distributor in, before you put it in look at the shaft right next to the gear on the distributor. You'll see a drilled mark, don't confuse it with the pin. It's a drilled hole about 1/8" deep. Now look at the housing right before the O-ring. You see that groove? Line up the drilled mark with the groove and install the distributor by aligning the center of the eccentric hole with the bolt hole for the distributor hold down bolt. Look on page IG-20 in the TSRM if you need a visual. Then proceed to set the BASE ignition timing by bridging terminals E1 and T with the engine at full operating temp.

JunkerMK3gte · 04-12-2007, 11:54 PM

yaeah but i honestly cant stand any of the manifolds. if you have ever seen one you would understand. its ground down to minimum standards and the welds( where applicable) are pitted and uneven..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reeves

Last time i talked to Turbonetics they said they had some manifolds in stock. So i donno..

04-12-2007, 03:36 PM	#14
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Ok you asked for it. The crank pulley is keyed to the crank on the 7M with a woodruff key, so whenever the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover, the No.1 piston is at TDC. NOW, there are 2 TDC's on a 4 stroke engine, one on the exhaust stroke and one on the compression stroke. The TDC you need to install the CPS correctly is the one on the compression stroke. That is also the TDC when the cam gear matchmarks line up with the notches on the inner timing belt cover. If you have the upper timing belt cover off and spin the crank by hand, you will see that for every 2 times the crank revolves, the cams revolve once. So you hit the 0 degree mark once and the cam gear marks line up, then you spin the crank again and hit the 0 degree mark and NOW the cam gear marks are 180 degrees to the notches on the inner timing belt cover. So what I am trying to explain is, you can't just line the crank up to the 0 on the cover and think you are at the correct TDC. Like I said there are 2 TDC's on every single 4 stroke engine whether its SOHC, DOHC or OHV. SO, the only way to know what is the correct TDC on a supra is, 1. take the upper timing belt cover off and line the crank to the 0 when the cams line up with the notches. Or 2. take the no.1 spark plug out, spin the crank by hand and listen for when air rushes out of the spark plug hole when the crank nears the 0 degree mark. When it rushes out, the valves are closed and the no.1 piston is on TDC of its compression stroke. If air does not rush out then the exhaust valves are open and its on the exhaust stroke. Obviously the method with taking the upper timing cover off is easier but you have to take the thermostat housing off and then you need to buy coolant. Either way will work and then you can properly install the CPS by lineing up the drilled mark on the shaft with the groove on the CPS housing and you are done. Last edited by IHateHacks; 04-12-2007 at 05:37 PM.

04-12-2007, 04:48 PM	#15
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Alright this makes sense and is basically what I have done. I followed the tsrm and I have 1 and 6 on the top. I guess I was hoping for more of an explanation on the distributor rotor. I marked mine on the dist and the head before I removed it. But I am sure my mark will no longer be on the head. How do I know if it is lined up sinse I am sure my marks will be gone due to the machine shop? FYI..., I tried to send you a pm but your box is full to capacity. lol. EDIT: my power steering pump also has a woodruff key. I had to shave it down with a file to make it fit. Last edited by supramacist; 04-12-2007 at 04:51 PM.

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04-07-2007, 06:17 AM	#11
JunkerMK3gte Stock Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Akron, Ohio Posts: 22	now, last i knew theres not a manifold out there for you to buy. all the other stuff you can peice together, but yeah money. i plan on getting stuff together(kits/ performance parts) but im sure you arent about to wait. look under bang for the buck page. if you plan on all new stuff. ebay the old. if the turbo is rebuildable, you should be able to make quite a bit of money

04-12-2007, 05:25 PM	#16
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Ok forget about the marks you made on the head. That is only if you only removed the distributor and its so you don't have to set the ignition timing. When you get your head back and bolt it back on, make sure the crank is dead even with the 0 degree mark and install the timing belt with the cam marks lined up (Im sure you know all of this, just making sure). Then when you put the distributor in, before you put it in look at the shaft right next to the gear on the distributor. You'll see a drilled mark, don't confuse it with the pin. It's a drilled hole about 1/8" deep. Now look at the housing right before the O-ring. You see that groove? Line up the drilled mark with the groove and install the distributor by aligning the center of the eccentric hole with the bolt hole for the distributor hold down bolt. Look on page IG-20 in the TSRM if you need a visual. Then proceed to set the BASE ignition timing by bridging terminals E1 and T with the engine at full operating temp.