codes 22 24 31

kidthunder650 · 03-28-2007, 10:12 PM

my supra was running ok when i baught it. it had some problems under boost but when crusing it ran good. suposbly has a rebuilt 7mgte and a new stock turbo, and various new parts here and there.

now its running like compleat crap and blows tons and tons of thick black smoke,
it doesnt always start and is not driveable. i changed the plugs and fuel filter.

i just went out and got codes 22 24 and 31 out of the car. i had unplugged the computer and battery and waited about an hour went out got the car started. that was a project in it self, ran it for about 10 minutes and then checked codes. the car ran like ass and wanted to die the whole time.

the person before me didnit align the cam sensor correctly and i can not figure out how ethier. i know this is contributing to my running problems.

my temp sensor is broken so i know thats what code 22 is for. i havent looked at code 24 yet, that is an intake air temp code.

code 31 is what i think might be my problems. that is a air flow meter code for a 7mgte engine. that would be my maf sensor on the intake tube, correct? This would make the car run like crap if it was broken.

if anyone has one laying around i would be glad to buy it as its worth a shot in fixing my car.

JunkerMK3gte · 03-28-2007, 11:36 PM

now your codes r one thing. i build turbo cars for a living. that black smoke is oil. check your turbo. under load oil will seep past the ceramic seals, will end up burnig makin black smoke. now your computer is self componsating. which means it adjusts itelf. the o2 sesor picks up bad exaust, puts more fuel, more air but it gets worse. thats your air code. check the turbo

Quote:

Originally Posted by kidthunder650

my supra was running ok when i baught it. it had some problems under boost but when crusing it ran good. suposbly has a rebuilt 7mgte and a new stock turbo, and various new parts here and there.

now its running like compleat crap and blows tons and tons of thick black smoke,
it doesnt always start and is not driveable. i changed the plugs and fuel filter.

i just went out and got codes 22 24 and 31 out of the car. i had unplugged the computer and battery and waited about an hour went out got the car started. that was a project in it self, ran it for about 10 minutes and then checked codes. the car ran like ass and wanted to die the whole time.

the person before me didnit align the cam sensor correctly and i can not figure out how ethier. i know this is contributing to my running problems.

my temp sensor is broken so i know thats what code 22 is for. i havent looked at code 24 yet, that is an intake air temp code.

code 31 is what i think might be my problems. that is a air flow meter code for a 7mgte engine. that would be my maf sensor on the intake tube, correct? This would make the car run like crap if it was broken.

if anyone has one laying around i would be glad to buy it as its worth a shot in fixing my car.

ddmcse · 03-28-2007, 11:49 PM

the black smoke is a bad air fuel mixture
too rich
oil burns blue

i would check the egr vsv and the fuel vsv on the intake side onder the intake manifold

it's a simple continuity check and they are about 40$ each

kidthunder650 · 03-29-2007, 12:35 AM

i thought oil was blue smoke. this is black smoke. the person before me took alot of things off the car. no emmisions no ps or ac crusise, ect.
what should i be checking on the turbo, i am new to turbo cars, first one.

IHateHacks · 03-29-2007, 01:21 AM

Hey I build turbo cars too and black smoke=fuel, too much of it I might add. Blue smoke=oil. White smoke=coolant/water.

Kidthunder if I were you, I'd get the ignition timing sorted out first. It is not hard if you know what you are doing. I can post a detailed procedure on how to find TDC and correctly install a CPS, but everytime I give out this info people don't care to use it or don't understand engine dynamics so they just ignore me. Let me know if you wanna correctly set your ignition timing yourself.

IHateHacks · 03-29-2007, 02:10 AM

Unless you are blowing clouds of blue smoke under load or WOT, your turbo is fine.

The only thing you can check with the turbo bolted to the engine is axial shaft play. You can check radial shaft play also, but ANY axial shaft play is very bad.

Axial=in and out

Radial= side to side

JunkerMK3gte · 04-01-2007, 03:38 PM

i was in a hurry to get to the shop. it sounded like it was lamens described. sry about that. on your t/b there is the tps. theres a yellow paint mark from the factory(index mark) the screw and mark should line up. the cam sensor should be about a third of the way up from the bottom of the adjustment slot and last pull off the vacum hose from the pressure regulator, put another on long enough for you to suck on. start the car and suck on it. if you taste gas its bad if the idle changes(listen closely) its good. if not its bad. check that stuff and get back

Reeves · 04-02-2007, 03:26 AM

I have some radial shaft play on my turbo. I believe the oil seals are blown because i get a good amount of blue smoke. It only smokes after I push it then put the clutch in and let it idle, blue smoke will pour out for a bit. There is a lot of oil in the intercooler pipes so im thinking it's pushing oil through into the engine. also no smoke on startup..

What do you guys think?

JunkerMK3gte · 04-04-2007, 12:35 AM

yes, it is the seals/bearings. pull it now and replace/rebuild it before you fry the turbo all together. Garrett turbos has the best of anything you need to do. it costs a bit more, but you wont have to worry about it again.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reeves

I have some radial shaft play on my turbo. I believe the oil seals are blown because i get a good amount of blue smoke. It only smokes after I push it then put the clutch in and let it idle, blue smoke will pour out for a bit. There is a lot of oil in the intercooler pipes so im thinking it's pushing oil through into the engine. also no smoke on startup..

What do you guys think?

Reeves · 04-06-2007, 05:46 AM

Im just gonna go ahead and get a whole new turbo from turbonetics.. I think all I need is new manifold, injectors, fuel pump, AFM, and all the electronics that go with it. Plus a good tune.. Right?

Already have a metal headgasket with ARP headstuds and full 3" exhaust.. I also want to get new hardpipes and a blow off valve.. All this money though.. Don't know where Im gonna get it.

If you guys have any advice, throw it my way im. Im always open to suggestions and have found that in fact, I do not know everything =D.

03-28-2007, 10:12 PM	#1
kidthunder650 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: warwick ri Posts: 52	codes 22 24 31 my supra was running ok when i baught it. it had some problems under boost but when crusing it ran good. suposbly has a rebuilt 7mgte and a new stock turbo, and various new parts here and there. now its running like compleat crap and blows tons and tons of thick black smoke, it doesnt always start and is not driveable. i changed the plugs and fuel filter. i just went out and got codes 22 24 and 31 out of the car. i had unplugged the computer and battery and waited about an hour went out got the car started. that was a project in it self, ran it for about 10 minutes and then checked codes. the car ran like ass and wanted to die the whole time. the person before me didnit align the cam sensor correctly and i can not figure out how ethier. i know this is contributing to my running problems. my temp sensor is broken so i know thats what code 22 is for. i havent looked at code 24 yet, that is an intake air temp code. code 31 is what i think might be my problems. that is a air flow meter code for a 7mgte engine. that would be my maf sensor on the intake tube, correct? This would make the car run like crap if it was broken. if anyone has one laying around i would be glad to buy it as its worth a shot in fixing my car.

03-28-2007, 11:49 PM	#3
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	the black smoke is a bad air fuel mixture too rich oil burns blue i would check the egr vsv and the fuel vsv on the intake side onder the intake manifold it's a simple continuity check and they are about 40$ each __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

04-01-2007, 03:38 PM	#7
JunkerMK3gte Stock Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Akron, Ohio Posts: 22	sry i was in a hurry to get to the shop. it sounded like it was lamens described. sry about that. on your t/b there is the tps. theres a yellow paint mark from the factory(index mark) the screw and mark should line up. the cam sensor should be about a third of the way up from the bottom of the adjustment slot and last pull off the vacum hose from the pressure regulator, put another on long enough for you to suck on. start the car and suck on it. if you taste gas its bad if the idle changes(listen closely) its good. if not its bad. check that stuff and get back

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03-29-2007, 12:35 AM	#4
kidthunder650 3" Exhaust Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: warwick ri Posts: 52	i thought oil was blue smoke. this is black smoke. the person before me took alot of things off the car. no emmisions no ps or ac crusise, ect. what should i be checking on the turbo, i am new to turbo cars, first one.

03-29-2007, 01:21 AM	#5
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Hey I build turbo cars too and black smoke=fuel, too much of it I might add. Blue smoke=oil. White smoke=coolant/water. Kidthunder if I were you, I'd get the ignition timing sorted out first. It is not hard if you know what you are doing. I can post a detailed procedure on how to find TDC and correctly install a CPS, but everytime I give out this info people don't care to use it or don't understand engine dynamics so they just ignore me. Let me know if you wanna correctly set your ignition timing yourself.

03-29-2007, 02:10 AM	#6
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Unless you are blowing clouds of blue smoke under load or WOT, your turbo is fine. The only thing you can check with the turbo bolted to the engine is axial shaft play. You can check radial shaft play also, but ANY axial shaft play is very bad. Axial=in and out Radial= side to side

04-02-2007, 03:26 AM	#8
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	I have some radial shaft play on my turbo. I believe the oil seals are blown because i get a good amount of blue smoke. It only smokes after I push it then put the clutch in and let it idle, blue smoke will pour out for a bit. There is a lot of oil in the intercooler pipes so im thinking it's pushing oil through into the engine. also no smoke on startup.. What do you guys think?

04-06-2007, 05:46 AM	#10
Reeves 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: San Diego Posts: 98	Im just gonna go ahead and get a whole new turbo from turbonetics.. I think all I need is new manifold, injectors, fuel pump, AFM, and all the electronics that go with it. Plus a good tune.. Right? Already have a metal headgasket with ARP headstuds and full 3" exhaust.. I also want to get new hardpipes and a blow off valve.. All this money though.. Don't know where Im gonna get it. If you guys have any advice, throw it my way im. Im always open to suggestions and have found that in fact, I do not know everything =D.