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Old 04-20-2007, 02:48 AM   #21
Monkey
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Check fuel, air, spark, and timing.
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Old 04-20-2007, 04:41 AM   #22
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god damn i need to get someone to help me with this, im tired of pulling this motor apart.i swear i have taken it apart 20 times now. replaced plugs and wires again, also the coupler to the TB was cracked all the way down replaced that, redid my redone wireing job to make shur it was all staying connected. and still running like shit.

ihatehacks you are probably right but, in order for me to do my timeing i need a timeing gun, which i dont have.

and also i noticed that i can hear the engine at idle popping and everytime it does the RPMs will jump a about 100rpms - 200rpms. and it jumps really quick, just thing pop and and thats how fast it goes and ive only noticed it doing that at idle or returning to idle when its warmed up.

my friend thought it was the plugs, nope he just said it seemed like it was missing bad. very bad.
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7MGTE - 500hp never dyno'd
exhaust: 3inch pipes no cat/powerhouse manifold/garret gt47 18psi/HKS SS racing wastegate
fidenza cam gears
intake: PHR 4inch intake/K&N filter/3 inch intercooler/ pipeFMIC/greddy type R bov/
fuel: 550cc PTE/ walbro 255lp / Aeromotive adj pressure regulator
transmission: Fidenza flywheel/ACT extreme kit
electronics: map ecu 1 / HKS EVC 9
gauges:boost,EGT,oil temp & pressure/aem AFR
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Old 04-20-2007, 12:26 PM   #23
IHateHacks
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Timing guns are $39.99 at autozone.

If your valve timing is off, (you said one cam was a tooth off) it will cause missing and very poor drivablity.

Stop throwing parts at your car and fix what you already know (You said it!) is wrong. Fix the valve timing then set ignition timing, then you can further diagnose your problem if necessary.
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Old 04-20-2007, 05:05 PM   #24
west_side_supra
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so basically pull off the timing belt and turn both cams to top dead center?
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7MGTE - 500hp never dyno'd
exhaust: 3inch pipes no cat/powerhouse manifold/garret gt47 18psi/HKS SS racing wastegate
fidenza cam gears
intake: PHR 4inch intake/K&N filter/3 inch intercooler/ pipeFMIC/greddy type R bov/
fuel: 550cc PTE/ walbro 255lp / Aeromotive adj pressure regulator
transmission: Fidenza flywheel/ACT extreme kit
electronics: map ecu 1 / HKS EVC 9
gauges:boost,EGT,oil temp & pressure/aem AFR
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Old 04-20-2007, 11:48 PM   #25
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Make sure the crank pulley notch is lined up with the 0 mark on the lower timing belt cover. Loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt and use a flathead screwdriver to release the tension, then tighten the bolt with the tension relieved. Pull the timing belt off the cam gears, line up each cam gear with its matchmark on the inner timing belt cover. Install the timing belt on the cam gears, loosen the tensioner pulley bolt to tension the belt, then torque the tensioner pulley bolt. Torque spec is 36ft/lbs.
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Old 04-21-2007, 01:30 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHateHacks
Timing guns are $39.99 at autozone.

If your valve timing is off, (you said one cam was a tooth off) it will cause missing and very poor drivablity.

Stop throwing parts at your car and fix what you already know (You said it!) is wrong. Fix the valve timing then set ignition timing, then you can further diagnose your problem if necessary.
Here we go again, with "Oh, go to Auto Zone and get a crappy timing light." You get what you pay for. You buy cheap, you get cheap, and didn't i tell the dude with the 14/21 codes not to throw parts at his car, like so many people do when they go to AUTO ZONE? Why is it that noone listens to me? Oh, that's right, they do so much work on one car, their own car, and they think they know everything there is to know about working on any car. Maybe one day some of you will learn. Anyone have any clue as to why Auto Zone stays in business, and Advance and O'Reilly's? Becuase they sell shitty inferior substandard parts to people who won't shell out a little more cash for the good parts because they're cheapasses, and when those parts wear out fast, they go back and spend money again on the same shitty parts that they just bought, like six months ago. Geniuses, i see this shit EVERY SINGLE DAMN DAY at my shop. BELIEVE ME. I work on the edge of a poor town. They bitch about the prices of automotive repairs every day. If they're gonna bitch about it, then they need to sell their car and start riding a bicycle. I don't understand what some of you have such a hard time at understand ingwhat i'm telling you. I speak from years of EXPERIENCE. I'm not talking out of my arsehole. When some of you are ready to listen and ask someone who really knows what the hell they are doing and are tired of doing the job over and over and over again on your car and tired of keep pissing money away and throwing parts at your car all the time, then please, pm me. I'll be more than happy to answer any questions, and if i can't, then i KNOW my partner at work can. I have access to a buttload of diagnostic tools, and i do have a computer at work with internet access with ALLDATA. I use any and all tools at my disposal to get the job done right the first time. Time is money, in my profession. If my time is being wasted when i'm working on a job, then i'm wasting my money, and i'll be damned if i do that to myself. Do the job right the first time. If you're unsure, then get someone who knows what the hell they're doing to give you a hand. Asking someone over an internet forum about something is good and all, but it won't solve the problem all of the time. Maybe not even part of the time. It's kind of like being an arm chair quarterback. Making plays from the chair but not actually carrying them out. That doesn't work, either. I know you guys and gals may think i'm an asshat, but you know what? I can't stand a knucklehead that thinks he knows everything there is to know in the automotive world when he/ she has only worked on their own car. I work on every different make and model out there, because i work at an indepent shop. That means i see it all, and i really do see it all. I've seen vehicles that i just shake my head and wonder how in the hell they drove it in like that. With age and maturity comes wisdom and experience. I'm not an old fart, but i've been around in this long enough to have seen plenty.
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Old 04-21-2007, 02:40 AM   #27
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wow. you need to take a breath man.

mmm im not trying to be cheap, its just im low on cash, like im lucky if i have 5$ on me within the week. my parents are the ones who pay for my gas and schooling for automotive. but me on the otherhand dont have enough time for a job. i have a love and passion for cars, i always have had one. i love being able to work on cars and have knowlege of how to fix problems. im the person who learns from being told. if something breaks and i fix it ill remember for ever how to do it so that way if someone else has that problem i know how to help them.
but there shall be no worries anymore because now i had to bug the shit out of my parents to get money to get my car worked on at my favorite tuner shop. love them 12$/hr for me when it should be like 25$/hr. the car goes down there tomorrow and i will keep you informed on what the problem was.

oh and monkey i understand what you are saying im not trying to be cheap and i totally agree with what you said. you get what you pay for. but in that case just for the future when i get my tax returns im going to pick up a digital torqe wrench at the local pawn exchange. 1??$ and i can pick it up for 25 just because i know all the people who work there and i have helped them with their cars when they needed it. oh and stop being an asshat
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7MGTE - 500hp never dyno'd
exhaust: 3inch pipes no cat/powerhouse manifold/garret gt47 18psi/HKS SS racing wastegate
fidenza cam gears
intake: PHR 4inch intake/K&N filter/3 inch intercooler/ pipeFMIC/greddy type R bov/
fuel: 550cc PTE/ walbro 255lp / Aeromotive adj pressure regulator
transmission: Fidenza flywheel/ACT extreme kit
electronics: map ecu 1 / HKS EVC 9
gauges:boost,EGT,oil temp & pressure/aem AFR
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Old 04-22-2007, 01:50 AM   #28
IHateHacks
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Last edited by IHateHacks; 04-22-2007 at 01:57 AM.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:57 AM   #29
west_side_supra
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ok so i checked the timing made shur to short the circut t and e1 and rpms where at 600-650, the cams lined up with the marks and the pully read 10.

changed the fuel filter <that was pretty cloged up.

and drove it around and noticed the rpms where still hopping around and even got it recorded

RPM jump

so i checked the connector on the CPS and when i touched it the car shut off. so i started it up again, idled fine touched it again and it started clunking to its death, so i started to pull of the old electrical tape. didnt see anything started the car up again, touched the wires and it didnt do anything at all. then i drove it, still running like shit.
so what you guys thinking?

and what is this valve?
__________________

7MGTE - 500hp never dyno'd
exhaust: 3inch pipes no cat/powerhouse manifold/garret gt47 18psi/HKS SS racing wastegate
fidenza cam gears
intake: PHR 4inch intake/K&N filter/3 inch intercooler/ pipeFMIC/greddy type R bov/
fuel: 550cc PTE/ walbro 255lp / Aeromotive adj pressure regulator
transmission: Fidenza flywheel/ACT extreme kit
electronics: map ecu 1 / HKS EVC 9
gauges:boost,EGT,oil temp & pressure/aem AFR
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:25 AM   #30
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mmm any ideas?
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7MGTE - 500hp never dyno'd
exhaust: 3inch pipes no cat/powerhouse manifold/garret gt47 18psi/HKS SS racing wastegate
fidenza cam gears
intake: PHR 4inch intake/K&N filter/3 inch intercooler/ pipeFMIC/greddy type R bov/
fuel: 550cc PTE/ walbro 255lp / Aeromotive adj pressure regulator
transmission: Fidenza flywheel/ACT extreme kit
electronics: map ecu 1 / HKS EVC 9
gauges:boost,EGT,oil temp & pressure/aem AFR
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