crank shaft pulley puller
 

Do I need one of these tools to remove the crank shaft pulleys so I can remove the lower drive belt casing???

I jacked this thing up and the casing is built around the crank. I can get a 21mm 3/4 drive on it but I can't bust that nut and hold the pulleys at the same time and get anywhere, anyway.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

First, to get the crank pulley off you are going to have to take the starter out and jamb the flywheel with a prybar through the hole the starter goes in, that is the only way you are going to prevent the crankshaft from turning while you try to loosen the crank pulley bolt. And by the way the crank pulley bolt is 19mm not 21mm. Have a friend hold the pry bar while you crack that sucker loose. Once its off, if you can't just slide the crank pulley off, you can "walk" it off with a flathead screwdriver. Lay under the car with your feet sticking out of the front end and your head just behind the pulley, now use the shank of the flathead on each 'side' of the pulley, do not pry at it with the tip of the screwdriver. It will take you a while and it will seem like its not doing anything, but just get up and look at how much the crank has moved away from the lower timing belt case to see your progress. Should take you about 30 minutes to take the pulley off that way.

I pulled off of it today and I was actually coming back to see what everyone thought about what you said because pulling the starter puts me right where I need to be. But I didn't know if it would damage anything or not.

There's definitley no easy way to do this. I just put the starter on as well about a week ago.

I couldn't get a 19 on it. I used a 21 with hex head grooves, fit's perfectly. My set went from 19mm to 21mm. I thought I was going to have to buy a 20mm socket. These engines are basically the same but they do have differences.

Thanks for the responce.

you can also put a breaker bar or something on, set it against the frame or something else that wont move, and just turn the motor over real quick. i dont know if i would do either way for fear of damage

The stock flywheel is hefty. But I'm picky about what to actually put in there.

I dig the jeeter bar idea. I'm from arkansas.., That's what I grew up calling them.

I'm still open to ideas for certain. Jesus..., I'll need a saw'd off alluminum bat for this, lol.

Anyhow it's soaking in PB Blaster as we speak. I have nothing to lose in renting the pulley puller. I'm just out of pocket 90 bucks till I return it. I need any tool I can get my hands on. A king size pipe wrench would be nice.

I'm not a mechinic. I just work on my own $hit.

i didnt have to, but i would take a breaker bar, prop is against the floor and crank the engine over. Im pretty sure it spins the correct way.

Damn bro, I think you got other issues. :rofl: :outahere:

LOL, sorry I couldn't resist!! But seriously, I've seen people toast their starters doing the starter bump method. I was the same way at first, I was scared of jamming the flywheel with a prybar, I was afraid of breaking a tooth, but you really just have to hold it with the prybar. The flywheel is so big compared to the crank bolt that you have like 100X the leverage or whatever. Trust me, it won't f-up your flywheel and its the ONLY way to stop that crank from moving.

You keep talking about a pulley puller? Are you trying to get the crank bolt off or do you already have the crank bolt off and you are trying to get the crank pulley off?

I don't know. This will be the first time for this one right here.

After thinking about it all night I'm still not sure of how I want to do this.
When I hear you say pry bar. What exactlly are you talking about? Because I see like a stanley nail pulling pry bar in my mind.

As for the other. I'm not sure of wich way the center nut is supposed to turn to loosen. I am assuming it's left and I would turn the pulley to the right.

The tsrm doesn't cover this particular Application.

Prybar is a term used in the auto technician trade to describe a tool that has a handle like a screwdriver but the tool end has a box shank and is about 2 feet long with a big flathead at the end that is usually angled about 30-45 degrees. It's meant to pry things apart.

When you say center nut are you talking about the crankshaft pulley bolt? And every single nut/bolt on a supra tightens to the right and loosens to the left. There are no reverse threaded fasteners on a MK3 supra.

I'm telling you but you seem to not want to hear it, the only way you are going to keep the crank from spinning is to jam the flywheel. I've done it before, I'm not just giving you hearsay like some people do.

I believe you dude. I don't doubt you. I just want to make sure I KNOW what I am doing before I get out there. And I get what you mean by a pry bar now.


Part of the hesitation is I don't have a pry bar. And I'm not into taking the starter off again either..., what a pain. The more I think about it. I am realizing this is probably the best way.
My first thought was I will get flamed if I tell anyone I am jamming the flywheel to break the but. And ya I couldn't resist the nut busting comment either.

I'm calling to find a prybar now..., but I will probably go to Lowes.

Flamed for that? 99% of the people here don't even know how to take the crank pulley off anyway, and the 1% that do, if they have a better way of doing it, IM ALL EARS.

Good luck finding a prybar. I got mine from a tech buddy that works at a dealership, and he bought it from snap-on.

Just, when you do wind up doing it, get someone you really trust to hold the prybar, or you hold the prybar if you only trust yourself with your car (like I did). Someone that is stronger than you so you don't overpower them when you try to loosen the crank bolt and make them slip off the flywheel and possibly damage it.

This may sound stupid. But it just dawned on me. If I take the car out of neutral and puit it in gear...., will it hold it self while I twist on the crank. Just a thought.

I don't trust anyone with my car. LOL. I may have to put the old lady to work. LOL, make her earn her keep. I'm kidding about the wife part not the trust part. Hell half the time I don't trust myself.

Alright...., I went to lowes and purchased a pry bar.
When I got home I pulled the starter. Jeez I monkey'd with those bolts for damn long time.

Now I'm going to phone a friend and see if I can get him signed up for duty tomorrow at his convenience, ofcourse.

^ what i did. I just put it in second so the clutch wouldnt slip off, and pulled the park brake up as hard as i possibly could with out thinking the cable would snap. I used this method about 5 maybe 6 times while doing my front main seal and timing belt, etc all the shit under there. Not as risky as messing up the flywheel, and is ALOT easier. It takes about 2 seconds :)

I put it in every gear with the e brake pulled and someone hitting the main brake. The tranny just won't hold it.

And just for shits and giggles last night I tried the 19mm and it fit perfectly so I was wrong hack hater. I could have sworn I tried that and couldn't get it on.

I have a buddy coming over this evening to help me. I'm not thrilled about the pry bar idea. But it seems to be the only way I have to tame this beast.

I'm going to duck tape it heavily so it won't be metal on metal. I just spent 100 bucks on an idle tensioner pulley for the drive belt. If my other one isn't bad after I get it off and compare the two I'll be taking the new one back. It hurts to spend that much money on a pulley. When I'm doing the entire ignition system for around 120ish.

I'm also going to clean the head one more time reall good today so I can get my ARP studs in place. I should be picking the head up on monday.

Nope, putting the car in gear with the ebrake pulled will NOT stop the crank from spinning 100% of the time. Sure it might have worked for you but it sure as hell didn't work for me, and it didn't work for supramacist either.

And for the last time I DIDN'T MESS UP MY FLYWHEEL WITH THE PRYBAR!!! Like I said, the flywheel is so much larger in diameter than the crank bolt you have leverage on your side, you barely have to hold the flywheel while you crack it loose. It's the only method that is guaranteed to work 100% of the time. Car in gear with the ebrake on will NOT work on every car, period.

The only reason why it worked for you kuban is because your crank bolt wasn't torqued to the 195ft/lbs the TSRM recommends.

Let's all count to 10 and take a deep breath here and squash the hostility.

I trust ya hack hater. No probs, dude.
I bought the prybar and got the starter out.
I even duct taped it nicely as to not have metal on metal.

I gotta say gents, ihatehacks is right on this one.
I have crawled over and under this pig looking for a better way and even with a pulley puller it doesn't hold what I need held so it's worthless.

I say it's funny though how my 19mm and my 21mm fit the same damn stud.

Installed the ARP studs today. I'll bust that nut when it's time. And That's like now's good.

Funny how nobody said to use an air gun. Because that won't work on a Mk3 supra either. I've taken crank pulleys off alot of different vehicles before and an air gun gets most of them off, but most of them are not torqued to 195ft/lbs. Some are torqued to 100, some lower, some higher but not 195.

And now lets think about putting it back on, say you use the starter bump method, ok, now what? How are you going to keep the crank from spinning clockwise? Lets say you use the car in gear and ebrake on method. You aren't going to be able to torque that crank bolt no where near 195ft/lbs. And you certainly won't get it that tight with an air gun. This is where the prybar method works both ways without any problems. I'm going to be totally honest with you now, I only torqued my crank bolt to 150ft/lbs (I said that in my BHG post) because that was the highest my 1/2" torque wrench went (that 3/8" digital snap on only goes to 100ft/lbs). I actually torqued the crank bolt myself, pry bar in my right hand and torque wrench in my left. And when that thing hit 150 it made a click like I've never heard a torque wrench make. But when I had to get it off, I held the prybar and I had a friend loosen the bolt.

You might have a problem fitting the prybar tip inbetween the flywheel teeth with alot of duct tape on there, but just use your discretion.

I didn't put much tape on there because I didn't want any chunks falling down inside. It's just enough on the tip to insert. I think it'll be fine.


This sucks we have hit a spot of nasty weather and it's hard to get my buddies motivated, lol. I could probably tighten it as you did, but I know I can't break it alone.

The tape and the prybar work just fine.

I just can't get the crank bolt to budge. So I'm going to soak it in more pb blaster and try again later. Nothing worth doing is ever easy.

good luck with that bolt

Clearly I'm going to need it.

Thanks.

Alright guys. I bought a 17 inch breaker bar and a deep welled 1/2 inch 19mm socket. I can not budge this damn bolt. Should I try tapping on it with a hammer before breaking it??? I'm running out of options. I'll have my head tomorrow and I need to get this bitch broken so I can replace my timing belt AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAArgh.

Put a pipe on the end of the 17in breaker bar. A nice 3 footer will do the trick.

Glad to hear you stopped the crank from moving.

I just knew I was going to pop this thing like a zit last night. I tried extending it. Either the pry bar slips and jacks up my flywheel or it sticks and I just can't pop it. Hello I'm not a weak dude either.

Are you yourself holding the prybar AND trying to break it loose? Or do you have a helper?

Have a helper hold the prybar, get a long ass pipe and you should be straight.

Never said you were weak.

The problem is the prybar. I have a helper and we have swapped. If I lift up to pop it. The engine shifts and lifts. Pushing down it just rocks, But won't give.

I need something more narrow that what I have I guess as a pry bar. I found an even longer extention for the breaker bar today. It adds another foot onto the 17 inches. I just have to get a more effective prybar before I need a flywheel too.

You can use a heavy duty flathead screwdriver instead. All you have to do is position the tip inbetween two teeth and then as you turn the crank with the breaker bar just let the flathead/prybar hit the bellhousing. I hope you aren't trying to stop the flywheel with the prybar just with your hands. You don't have to use any force on the flywheel directly, just keep the prybar/flathead positioned on the bellhousing and let it do all the work. I actually used a crowbar to stop my flywheel. Just use something that will fit inbetween the teeth and is heavy duty enough to not bend when it hits the bellhousing. Its kind of like taking the starter bolts and nuts out, you put a wrench on the nut and spin the bolt until the wrench hits something like the firewall and that keeps it from spinning. I hope you understand what I'm talking about. Good luck.

I appreciate your' taking the time to break it dowm mr. potator head style.

I'm almost ashamed that you would think that I haven't gotten far enough in this, that you think that. Definitley letting the prybar do it's thing while being held right there while I tighten it into the bell housing and then I put the breaker bar on it and come close to popping motor mounts I think.

I damn near bought a 18 buck screw driver that I could have used in the shawshank redemption.

Side note: Have you seen this new stanley tool called the FUBAR. Go to lowes and check it out.

LMAO @ the mr.potato head style comment.

Sorry, I'm not doubting your mechanical ability.......wait, I guess I am :)

No, but seriously, are you SURE you are trying to loosen it and not tighten it? Seriously. Hey I have to cover all the bases here.

You should not be moving the entire motor.

Here's the deal, its not about strength when getting a bolt off its about LEVERAGE. You said you used a 1 foot pipe to extend the breaker bar? That is your problem, all of your effort is going into moving the motor on its mounts. Go get a 3ft, better yet a 4ft small diameter steel pipe just big enough to slide over the handle of the breaker bar. If you get one long enough, your little sister will be able to break it loose. Its about leverage not strength.

I gotcha man.

I'm going to get the screw driver aforely stated and give it a go.
I'm not giving up yet.

It's like ROCKY VII in this mug, ya here.

lol