Head torque

Kuban · 04-23-2007, 08:53 AM

as a few of you know i just received a new jasper engine about 2 days ago. Most of the engine is done and ready to roll, BUT. Jasper torqed the head to complete factory spec. Meaning 55ftlbs i believe. So how much tighter do you think i can torque this thing? I was thinking 75ftlbs or so. Im buying a new rebuilt 60-1 ct-26 to pair with this new engine. I need the hg to be able to hold a little bit of power

IHateHacks · 04-24-2007, 01:36 AM

I'm assuming they used stock head bolts?

If I was doing what you are doing, first I'd order ARP bolts. Then when they arrived at my door, I'd lube them with the special moly lube they come with and looking at the TSRM diagram for LOOSENING the head bolts, I'd remove one at a time and swap them with the ARP's, torqueing them to at least 70ft/lbs. You don't need to do them in increments unless the head isn't torqued yet, but since the stock bolts are already in there and torqued you can just swap one out at a time, that way you won't disturb the gasket.

Or you can retorque the stock ones using the TIGHTENING sequence in the TSRM. But you have no idea what jasper used for lubricant on the head bolt threads, probably 30 weight motor oil which is ok, but not optimal for setting the correct torque. ARP does not recommend using 30 weight motor oil. ARP shows the difference between using 30 weight oil and their moly lube, moly lube only needs 71ft/lbs while 30 weight needs 90ft/lbs. This is because 85% of the torque you apply to a dry unlubricated bolt is lost due to the friction between the male and female threads while the rest is used to actually hold the part on. And not all lubricants are created equal. ARP moly lube is superior to any moly lube on the market.

Kuban · 04-24-2007, 03:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

I'm assuming they used stock head bolts?

If I was doing what you are doing, first I'd order ARP bolts. Then when they arrived at my door, I'd lube them with the special moly lube they come with and looking at the TSRM diagram for LOOSENING the head bolts, I'd remove one at a time and swap them with the ARP's, torqueing them to at least 70ft/lbs. You don't need to do them in increments unless the head isn't torqued yet, but since the stock bolts are already in there and torqued you can just swap one out at a time, that way you won't disturb the gasket.

Or you can retorque the stock ones using the TIGHTENING sequence in the TSRM. But you have no idea what jasper used for lubricant on the head bolt threads, probably 30 weight motor oil which is ok, but not optimal for setting the correct torque. ARP does not recommend using 30 weight motor oil. ARP shows the difference between using 30 weight oil and their moly lube, moly lube only needs 71ft/lbs while 30 weight needs 90ft/lbs. This is because 85% of the torque you apply to a dry unlubricated bolt is lost due to the friction between the male and female threads while the rest is used to actually hold the part on. And not all lubricants are created equal. ARP moly lube is superior to any moly lube on the market.

ok thanks ill call jasper and ask them what they use in the morning. Or i might just consider getting the arp's.

supramacist · 04-24-2007, 05:42 AM

You should at bare minimum replace with new oem head bolt replacements from toyota.

Alot of guys are doing this I guess, but ARP is the stuff man. You can tell it when you pick even a single 1 up. They are heavier. Damn, they are nice to look at even.

Kuban · 04-24-2007, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramacist

You should at bare minimum replace with new oem head bolt replacements from toyota.

Alot of guys are doing this I guess, but ARP is the stuff man. You can tell it when you pick even a single 1 up. They are heavier. Damn, they are nice to look at even.

fine... fine... ill buy the arp's, BUT there getting overnighted cause this engine WILL be in tomorrow. Question. Is it easier to install these with the engine out of the car? Id like to do them with the engine in the car. If thats possible and im sure it is.

supramacist · 04-24-2007, 06:45 AM

I went with studs. They went in like a dream. You may want a tap and dye set.

You put the studs in finger tight. When you start the torque process it will drive them in deeper while you tighten. I foud that nice dab of molly on 1 finger tip was ample. Because you want to have enough to do the tope as well.

There is enought to do the bolts if you choose. I have a pic of my studded block in my build thread. Check it out. You may get an idea that I have over looked or something.

I took those pics with my unsteady blackberry, So heads up.

Kuban · 04-24-2007, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supramacist

I went with studs. They went in like a dream. You may want a tap and dye set.

You put the studs in finger tight. When you start the torque process it will drive them in deeper while you tighten. I foud that nice dab of molly on 1 finger tip was ample. Because you want to have enough to do the tope as well.

There is enought to do the bolts if you choose. I have a pic of my studded block in my build thread. Check it out. You may get an idea that I have over looked or something.

I took those pics with my unsteady blackberry, So heads up.

whoa whoa whoa, what on earth would i need the tap and dye set for?

ddmcse · 04-24-2007, 11:12 AM

studs over bolts is my vote

04-23-2007, 08:53 AM	#1
Kuban 3" Exhaust Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 174	Head torque as a few of you know i just received a new jasper engine about 2 days ago. Most of the engine is done and ready to roll, BUT. Jasper torqed the head to complete factory spec. Meaning 55ftlbs i believe. So how much tighter do you think i can torque this thing? I was thinking 75ftlbs or so. Im buying a new rebuilt 60-1 ct-26 to pair with this new engine. I need the hg to be able to hold a little bit of power

04-24-2007, 11:12 AM	#8
ddmcse 500whp yet? Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT U.S.A. Posts: 966	studs over bolts is my vote __________________ 300+ RW HP Dyno run, jdm,mod turbo,3"exh,electfan,greddyboost Blown HeadGasket info My Supra KiXGaS

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
7M-GE head torque	zer_gravity	MKIII Supra	2	01-03-2007 11:49 PM
Arp Head Stud Torque Settings!?!?!?!?!?	papaleach	MKIII Supra	2	11-22-2006 08:20 PM
torque settings for big end shells and cylinder head	johnkarl	MKIII Supra	4	11-03-2006 04:01 PM
Head bolt torque	kjhsupra	Non-Generation Specific Questions	3	04-06-2006 09:19 AM
Torque Specifications (ARP Head Studs)???	Dejvid1785	MKIII Supra	5	03-06-2006 02:59 AM

04-24-2007, 01:36 AM	#2
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	I'm assuming they used stock head bolts? If I was doing what you are doing, first I'd order ARP bolts. Then when they arrived at my door, I'd lube them with the special moly lube they come with and looking at the TSRM diagram for LOOSENING the head bolts, I'd remove one at a time and swap them with the ARP's, torqueing them to at least 70ft/lbs. You don't need to do them in increments unless the head isn't torqued yet, but since the stock bolts are already in there and torqued you can just swap one out at a time, that way you won't disturb the gasket. Or you can retorque the stock ones using the TIGHTENING sequence in the TSRM. But you have no idea what jasper used for lubricant on the head bolt threads, probably 30 weight motor oil which is ok, but not optimal for setting the correct torque. ARP does not recommend using 30 weight motor oil. ARP shows the difference between using 30 weight oil and their moly lube, moly lube only needs 71ft/lbs while 30 weight needs 90ft/lbs. This is because 85% of the torque you apply to a dry unlubricated bolt is lost due to the friction between the male and female threads while the rest is used to actually hold the part on. And not all lubricants are created equal. ARP moly lube is superior to any moly lube on the market.

04-24-2007, 05:42 AM	#4
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	You should at bare minimum replace with new oem head bolt replacements from toyota. Alot of guys are doing this I guess, but ARP is the stuff man. You can tell it when you pick even a single 1 up. They are heavier. Damn, they are nice to look at even.

04-24-2007, 06:45 AM	#6
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	I went with studs. They went in like a dream. You may want a tap and dye set. You put the studs in finger tight. When you start the torque process it will drive them in deeper while you tighten. I foud that nice dab of molly on 1 finger tip was ample. Because you want to have enough to do the tope as well. There is enought to do the bolts if you choose. I have a pic of my studded block in my build thread. Check it out. You may get an idea that I have over looked or something. I took those pics with my unsteady blackberry, So heads up.