Car runs like crap, spits, sputters etc! HELP - Page 2

Z'mnypit · 05-02-2007, 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by j3pz

i have a suggestion: next time you decide to wash the hood, take it off...

/smartassness

I have a suggestion, next time you try to use smartassness re-read the thread. I didnt wash the hood. I washed under the hood meaning the engine, engine bay!

/smartassness

Z'mnypit · 05-02-2007, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IHateHacks

Thats is a big no no.

I find it hard to believe you didn't know you aren't suppost to do that.

Ive done it a 1000 times on my bike, truck, mustang, and my camaro. Never had one problem. Its not that I didnt know, just never had any problems with it until I get this car.

Z'mnypit · 05-03-2007, 01:07 AM

Just finished the compression check and heres what I got:

1- 130psi
2- 130psi
3- 130psi
4- 130psi
5- 136psi
6- 134psi

Sound about right? Car was still hot from just getting back from driving it. 142psi should be perfect so 4 of them are getting close!

I also put my NGK's back in there and now it has a miss under load. So looks like tommorow ill be swapping the NGK's back out. Always something!

IHateHacks · 05-03-2007, 01:20 AM

Those numbers are a little low, minimum cylinder pressure is 128psi on turbo models so you are pushing it to the limit.

Unfortunatly, I was right about the rod knock. Definately from running the engine with all the coolant in it. Not saying you did it. I'm sure the retard that you bought it from drove it like that for awhile.

Glad you got it running. I knew it was either the coil packs, MAF or igniter that got soaked and took a dump.

Keep us posted!

Z'mnypit · 05-14-2007, 01:54 PM

Alright guys I know its been awhile since Ive been back here. Ive been fighting with this stupid car for the past week with no luck. Heres my issue now: Got rid of all the SES lights except for the 52 (knock sensor) I dont know whats up with this code, Ive rewired the sensors and it still does it. Guess next Ill swap them out. The MAF is new, and all the other codes are gone. Now, it will start up fine, run fine but when the boost kicks in it will fall on its face. You literly have to let out of the gas watch the boost gauge drop then get back in the throttle to get it to move. As long as you dont go WOT or under a load its fine. But once you hit boost it nose dives. Ive checked every clamp, every pipe and I cant find any leaks. Ive checked the BPV and you cant blow through it at all. Ive backed the timing way off and all it did then was black smoke. So I know its getting the gas then. Im all out of options. I have a uncle who is a head mechanic at a local toyota dealership and was going to take him the car friday but hes in the hospital now so that puts a damper on that. Im open to any suggestions to try, Im on my last nerve with this car.

Thanks!

supradaddy0803 · 05-14-2007, 03:50 PM

Ok I know this is gonna sound a bit silly but when I first got into mark 3's I did it and I have worked on cars since I was about 12. The thing was back like 1999 I didnt have internet access and I was stuck in the military in South Dakota with no reference to anything 7MGE so when doing the timing belt I got it 180 out. Sad thing is it still runs fine at idle but when you push the gas it will die real fast. Sounds funny but it will run beleive me I have seen old fords and chevy's run 180 out and they sound like crap. I am just saying this since you did the head gasket maybe check it because it shouldnt throw black smoke if you retard the throttle the computer shouldnt let it. I know you are running out of options might as well a shot in the dark it is a none interferance motor or so the toyota techs tell me so you wont bend anything. And by 180 out the cam marks were pointing down instead of up and the crank mark was pointing at them at the zero mark. But it is worth a try with what you are describing.

Z'mnypit · 05-03-2007, 12:00 AM

IT FINALLY RUNS! Replaced the igniter with one off my parts car and bam, runs like a champ. Still got the MAF code and its a little low on power but its running is the main thing. About to do a compression check on all cylinders and seewhere that stands. Also have some rod knock. Thought maybe it was something loose but its defiantly rod knock. Im going to track down a MAF and see if I can rid of that code and then Ill start form there. Going to pull the motor from the donor car this weekend and start getting it ready to be swapped when this one dies. I did shim the waste gate .022 so the boost was right at 7psi. I dont guess ill up the boost until I get the new motor ready. But thankfully she's running.

j3pz · 05-04-2007, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Z'mnypit

Ok, a little backgound on the car. I bought it with a BHG. got that fixed and ran good for a couple days then I washed under the hood with some greasedlighting to clean it up a bit. Well needless to say that was a bad idea. Everysince then its ran like pure crap. Spits, sputter,no power, backfiring idles fine, want rev past 2500rpm even when it does rev that high its all it will do to get there. I have one SES code being 31 for the MAF. Im pretty sure that isnt the problem though beings the code was there the couple days it ran good.

Ive swapped out all plugs with new ones, changed air filter, cleaned all electrical plugs with start fluid and still runs like crap. Timing is right at 10-12* everything is lined up right. Then again it ran fine for two days with nothing being changed other then washing under the hood.

Yesterday, I found a vacuum leak right at the TB where it bolts up to the intake. Replaced that and the fuel filter today and still runs like crap. Im all out of ideas and cant think of anything else to try since Im new to these cars.

The car is an 87, 5spd, turbo.

Any suggestions?

im sorry i often confuse smartassness with dumbassness... my confusion cause you said under the hood and i thought you meant underside.

supramacist · 05-04-2007, 01:22 AM

You shouldn't hose a supra engine down, the main reason being that there are 2 different types of metal parented together at the head gasket.

I think this is why they were giving you a hard time. But I could be wrong.

05-03-2007, 01:07 AM	#3
Z'mnypit 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Springville, AL Posts: 57	Just finished the compression check and heres what I got: 1- 130psi 2- 130psi 3- 130psi 4- 130psi 5- 136psi 6- 134psi Sound about right? Car was still hot from just getting back from driving it. 142psi should be perfect so 4 of them are getting close! I also put my NGK's back in there and now it has a miss under load. So looks like tommorow ill be swapping the NGK's back out. Always something! __________________ -99 Z28 A4 6.7L "2006 LS1tech Calendar cover car" 408ci, Comp 244/248, Patriot Stage III LS6 heads, FAST 90mm Intake, NW 90mm TB, SVO 42lb'rs, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, 4L80e, Yank 3400, Motive 3.73's, Racetronix, TNT 200shot, Fikse FM10's -2005 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L (Towing), Silverbirch, Hooker Aero Chamber, blacked out windows, sittin on 22's - Two 87 turbo'd/targa top'd supras (Under Construction) Last edited by Z'mnypit; 05-03-2007 at 01:15 AM.

05-14-2007, 01:54 PM	#5
Z'mnypit 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Springville, AL Posts: 57	Alright guys I know its been awhile since Ive been back here. Ive been fighting with this stupid car for the past week with no luck. Heres my issue now: Got rid of all the SES lights except for the 52 (knock sensor) I dont know whats up with this code, Ive rewired the sensors and it still does it. Guess next Ill swap them out. The MAF is new, and all the other codes are gone. Now, it will start up fine, run fine but when the boost kicks in it will fall on its face. You literly have to let out of the gas watch the boost gauge drop then get back in the throttle to get it to move. As long as you dont go WOT or under a load its fine. But once you hit boost it nose dives. Ive checked every clamp, every pipe and I cant find any leaks. Ive checked the BPV and you cant blow through it at all. Ive backed the timing way off and all it did then was black smoke. So I know its getting the gas then. Im all out of options. I have a uncle who is a head mechanic at a local toyota dealership and was going to take him the car friday but hes in the hospital now so that puts a damper on that. Im open to any suggestions to try, Im on my last nerve with this car. Thanks! __________________ -99 Z28 A4 6.7L "2006 LS1tech Calendar cover car" 408ci, Comp 244/248, Patriot Stage III LS6 heads, FAST 90mm Intake, NW 90mm TB, SVO 42lb'rs, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, 4L80e, Yank 3400, Motive 3.73's, Racetronix, TNT 200shot, Fikse FM10's -2005 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L (Towing), Silverbirch, Hooker Aero Chamber, blacked out windows, sittin on 22's - Two 87 turbo'd/targa top'd supras (Under Construction)

05-14-2007, 03:50 PM	#6
supradaddy0803 12psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: Athens, TX Posts: 308	Ok I know this is gonna sound a bit silly but when I first got into mark 3's I did it and I have worked on cars since I was about 12. The thing was back like 1999 I didnt have internet access and I was stuck in the military in South Dakota with no reference to anything 7MGE so when doing the timing belt I got it 180 out. Sad thing is it still runs fine at idle but when you push the gas it will die real fast. Sounds funny but it will run beleive me I have seen old fords and chevy's run 180 out and they sound like crap. I am just saying this since you did the head gasket maybe check it because it shouldnt throw black smoke if you retard the throttle the computer shouldnt let it. I know you are running out of options might as well a shot in the dark it is a none interferance motor or so the toyota techs tell me so you wont bend anything. And by 180 out the cam marks were pointing down instead of up and the crank mark was pointing at them at the zero mark. But it is worth a try with what you are describing. __________________ 1987 supra NA 5 speed 1JZGTE swap Tokico Illumina 2 and Eibach springs Tokico pillow blocks Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bar HKS super dragger cat-back exhaust plus test pipe Greddy Profec B spec 2 boost controller HKS type 1 turbo timer Supra sport solid steel drive shaft Walboro 255 fuel pump JZA70 Front end mod 18" Volk Racing AV3 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 rear

05-03-2007, 12:00 AM	#7
Z'mnypit 3" Exhaust Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Springville, AL Posts: 57	IT FINALLY RUNS! Replaced the igniter with one off my parts car and bam, runs like a champ. Still got the MAF code and its a little low on power but its running is the main thing. About to do a compression check on all cylinders and seewhere that stands. Also have some rod knock. Thought maybe it was something loose but its defiantly rod knock. Im going to track down a MAF and see if I can rid of that code and then Ill start form there. Going to pull the motor from the donor car this weekend and start getting it ready to be swapped when this one dies. I did shim the waste gate .022 so the boost was right at 7psi. I dont guess ill up the boost until I get the new motor ready. But thankfully she's running. __________________ -99 Z28 A4 6.7L "2006 LS1tech Calendar cover car" 408ci, Comp 244/248, Patriot Stage III LS6 heads, FAST 90mm Intake, NW 90mm TB, SVO 42lb'rs, Pacesetter LT's, ORY, 4L80e, Yank 3400, Motive 3.73's, Racetronix, TNT 200shot, Fikse FM10's -2005 Silverado Crew Cab 5.3L (Towing), Silverbirch, Hooker Aero Chamber, blacked out windows, sittin on 22's - Two 87 turbo'd/targa top'd supras (Under Construction)

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05-03-2007, 01:20 AM	#4
IHateHacks 20psi boost Join Date: May 2006 Location: New Haven/Hamden Posts: 793	Those numbers are a little low, minimum cylinder pressure is 128psi on turbo models so you are pushing it to the limit. Unfortunatly, I was right about the rod knock. Definately from running the engine with all the coolant in it. Not saying you did it. I'm sure the retard that you bought it from drove it like that for awhile. Glad you got it running. I knew it was either the coil packs, MAF or igniter that got soaked and took a dump. Keep us posted!

05-04-2007, 01:22 AM	#9
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	You shouldn't hose a supra engine down, the main reason being that there are 2 different types of metal parented together at the head gasket. I think this is why they were giving you a hard time. But I could be wrong.