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Old 05-04-2007, 04:57 PM   #21
ebang
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no way I can afford to spend 5k on that!!...My wife will leave me...she is still mad enough for me buying this car...looks like i have a lot of work and learning ahead of me
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:15 PM   #22
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Her'es what I tell my wife.


Just wait. You'll see.
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Old 05-04-2007, 11:08 PM   #23
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well today i made a left turn at like 5mph and the light stayed on..im getting a little scared here about the HG going on me..Thanx ihatehack. ima just get the 90arp bolts and the stock gasket. because im thinking of either selling it or gettin a new motor now. I know im gunna miss the supra if i do but i gotta wait till i get a job that can afford the supra


well i have some ishino headgasket that sells for 64bux it says its OEM replacement and some felpro HG for $99
Are those good prices for headgasket and brand..i See that Hack use felpro but i dont need n ething crazy just a simply replacement thank you again guys need this help badly
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Old 05-05-2007, 02:02 AM   #24
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Yep, I used a felpro one. It was a decent quality too. It's held up to a couple hundred miles of complete torture so far

I paid $200 for a complete Felpro engine gasket set including the head gasket, even came with turbo gaskets. I just didn't use the EGR cooler gasket because it was made out of a non-metal gasket and the OEM one is metal, I bought one from the dealer it was like $20.

Light is staying on now huh? You are losing coolant quick. I'm telling ya, go buy a block test kit they are $50 and will give you solid proof if you need to start tearing the motor apart.

I overheated my car 3 times, coolant temps around 230F, when the head gasket finally gave way. I got lucky, no internal damage or warpage was done so these motors are pretty stout, but I suggest catching it before it starts to overheat. No need to take chances.
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Old 05-05-2007, 03:19 AM   #25
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I have a brand new top line graphite hg I didn't use. It came with the kit.

Make me an offer and cover the shipping. Pics if you want.
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Old 05-06-2007, 04:38 AM   #26
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Actually the light isnt staying on just flickers when i make left turn only. But i check my coolant and there all there even in the container. But i went to get estimate on prices for doing my hg and shit 1k holy crap no way

where can i go to get a block test kit im hoping praying to god that its just a bad sensor though but my car hasnt over heated yet "knock on wood"

i think ima take the chance and tear the block down just to get a working motor. My mom is going to be piss and putting this in my face buh oh well I LOVE MY MKIII
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88turbo targa-white
original Pin Stripe
custom intake-Tenzo filter.....Momo racing seats and steering wheel...
apexi exhaust tip-custom 3" piping. Replaced with RSR GT II
NGK plug and wires
HID conversion head lights
HKS Turbo Timer Type-1 (in black)
Tial BOV
BIC DDP
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Old 05-06-2007, 05:28 AM   #27
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I would have loved to have had an MKIII when I lived in the LBC.
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Old 05-06-2007, 10:33 AM   #28
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I'm having my coolant light come on whenI take left hand turns and my car and it isn't warmed up all the way. It goes away once it warms up and I had my HG replaced (with Felpro gaskets) and the head machined so Im positive that there isn't and leaking HG. So could it be the resivor that might have a slight leak in it?
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Old 05-06-2007, 12:42 PM   #29
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Mr.w, it "goes away when warmed up" because as the engine warms up it spits the heated coolant into the overflow causing the level to raise. What is the level in your overflow before you start it in the morning? It should be at or above the full mark, if its any lower than the full mark then the light will flicker when you take left hand turns. I think you just didn't fill the overflow up enough.

88Tsupra you can get a block test kit from any NAPA store for $50. Part # BK 700-1006. If they don't have it in stock, have them order it.

I spent just about 1K just on parts when I did my head gasket. But I replaced every single coolant hose (like the ones for the ISC and the one that goes to the water bypass pipe under the intake manifold), sealing washer (including the 32mm heater union that is on the back of the head), gasket (including the EGR cooler, something a shop won't even take off), o-ring (like the o-rings and insulators for the fuel injectors), timing belt and tensioner (a shop will just reuse your exsisting ones) and ARP head bolts (a shop will just get new toyota ones prone to streching or a hack shop will just reuse them).

Do the block test before you even pick up a wrench. Post your results.
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Old 05-06-2007, 01:48 PM   #30
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I'll do the block test at school when I get a chance but for now I'm a little busy taking NATEF tests. I'll get on the block and post results after I make my breaks stop squeaking(another problem yet to be solved).
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