what the hell
 

my car cant seem to work perfect for more than a month i swear.

ok so these past 2 days my car has been being a little biatch when it comes to starting it cold. i mean leave it over night and come back the next morning to start it. it will sit there and turn over and keep turning over. then i stop and try again it will sit and turn over and over with maby a little hicup here and there. i can smell what smells like exhaust coming out of the exhaust pipe. so im guessing its getting fuel.

once i get it running i can start it up again no problem. im guessing maby something to do with the cold start system, ill run a diagnostics to see if anything pulls up.

oh and me and a friend put on some hard pipes for the upper ic pipeing. i dont think its leaking at all anymore but ill spray some like carb cleaner in around the pipes to see if the RPMs raise up at all.
thanks again guys

ok so codes 14 and 34

The first thing that comes to mind is fuel pressure drop. The check valve at the pump, or an injector may be sticking open, which allows the pressure to drop after sitting for a while.

The fuel pump comes on in the 'start' position, so the lines take time to fill up and get the pressure up.

Check the fuel pressure, and drop, per specs. Or have it done by a shop.

ok dont know what was going on with the car for them couple of days, but whatever it was its fixed itself.

but now im haveing an issue with the car not only running rich as hell i mean it burns your eyes rich, getting about 8-11 mpg now. there is i guess a cloud of smoke that comes out of the back of the car when i push the motor hard <its not blue smoke or white, just dark> i dont know this now for a fack because i never look behind me when i go.

but other than that ill be going along, fast, and then the BOV will purge and then the rpms will just drop down under 500rpms either it will sit low for about 2 seconds then recover itself or it will go down to about 200rpms and then usally it will just shut the motor off.

well thinking it might have been the new hard pipes for the IC i sprayed starter fluid all over the place to see if i could get the RPMS to jump, there was nothing, did an eye inspection still aint seeing nothing.

the vacume lines are all good, i dont see anything really that has any cracks or sounds like its leaking.

but here is a video of what im trying to say, oh this is running slightly cold, but its the basically the same thing as when its warm. oh and it only does it when im pushing the car hard, or to the point of where the turbo is spooling up. inbetween shifts it feels like turbo lag, then the turbo kicks in and then weeeee here we go again. well try to imagin the bov releasing but not closing all the way untill the turbo kicks in again, you have a boost leak. so it drags along then it flys. i think i explained this problem pretty good :)
oh heres the video.

idle drop

anyone have any ideas

what kind of bov?

when i bought my car it had a hks ssq bov and it would do that same thing. but then i traded it for a friends stock recirculatory valve (and a 100 bones in my pocket) and now my car doesn't do that anymore.

hks ssq bov, but the spring is cut and i put in a longer adjustment screw, i have tightened it to the point of where it is impossible for the bov to even open and i still am having that issue, but the point that it is running very very rich is what scares me. is there a way to figure if the 02 sensor is working good. and also my friend said something about the collant temp sensor might have something to do with it running rich. i checked the timing again and it was 2 degrees high but i also didnt short the circute. so that should be very close to being right.

and now i have put 4 clamps for each intercooler pipe because they keep poping apart :) and also there is a little RTV for each one of them.

so yea, besides the BOV what else you think could have caused such richness?

checked the timing, the left cam is almost on mark, the right cam is off from what looks like 2 degrees, and the main crank is reading 10. if i remember right it should be on 12, it was idleing at 670-700rpm's and i shorted t and e1 like the tsrm says to. do you think this is bad enough to cause this much of an issue. because im driving about 12-15 miles and used 1/4 of a tank of gas.

i also checked the egr valve, the filters looked fine, the tsrm said there is only 2 filters in there, but i had 2 flat ones and a thing that looked like a cotton ball. then i pulled off the line going to the intake and it felt like it was blowing on my finger when i gave it throttle, the other line didnt do anything, but when i pulled both off and blew through the intake side i didnt feel any air going through.

if your not recirc'ing the bov, and im guessing since you have all hardpipes, you no longer have the midpipe with the bov recirc male end. It can cause issues like that if your not map tuned or have your maf relocated.