05-30-2007, 05:03 PM | #1 |
20psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago
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head bolts on jdm engine
i was in the process of taking the head off to get it machined and i found a stripped head bolt!!!!!!!! its #5 in the tsrm. wtf do i do??
ps: i cant turn it counterclock wise but i can turn it clockwise. can i use wd40? EDIT: i got the bolt loose with first tighting the bolt then i took a mallet and hammered the hex socket so it got stuck to the bolt then i loosened it. at first i thought i stripped it even more so i went into a rage but then when i went back to look i loosended it. so help me with my other question about the crank. thanks. oh and can i use wd-40 on the head bolts? Last edited by tone loc; 05-30-2007 at 08:27 PM. |
05-30-2007, 07:08 PM | #2 |
20psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago
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and how can i take the crank pulleys off? the engine is out of the car andthe flywheel is off
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05-31-2007, 02:27 AM | #3 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,038
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Use WD-40 for what? Assembly? No. Either get some good moly based assembly grease or use motor oil.
getting the crank pulley off with the engine out of the car can be a PITA. I'd recommend an impact wrench. |
05-31-2007, 04:04 AM | #4 |
20psi boost
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago
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no wd-40 on the head bolts? will that help to loosen them?
not having trouble with them now (i already fixed my problem) just for future refrencens |
05-31-2007, 04:21 AM | #5 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
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Okay, so you meant to use WD-40 as a penetrant? There are MUCH better penetrants out there. I still don't think it would do much good. The head bolts thread into the block a decent way down and the tops of the headbolts and the washers seal quite well even at the stock torque level. When I pulled mine they were all bone dry, I doubt even the best penetrating oil would get you very far.
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05-31-2007, 08:06 PM | #6 |
1000whp postwhore
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Alright, Let's play nice now.
Stop using wd-40. You need something with no water in it. If you want a good penetrant, try marvel mystery oil. Or PB Blaster, that's what I uses o'tay. CRC makes great stuff and even if some of there stuff has h2o in it, it's better than wd-40. Save that shit for your vans and your guitar strings. I would use the molly over the motor oil. Something about retorquing head bolts the molly and the oil are different somehow. But with the molly you didn't have to do anything other than read a torque wrench. I have been using a 4$ tube of crc molly. It's been great through the entire build. I'm glad I chose it over motor oil. It's also easily contained and more easy to clean than oil. |
05-31-2007, 08:11 PM | #7 |
1000whp postwhore
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if you stair at it long enough it will build itself
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06-01-2007, 04:29 AM | #8 |
20psi boost
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got all the bolts out. so when i get the arps i put the molly lube on the threads right?
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06-01-2007, 02:09 PM | #9 |
1000whp postwhore
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YA you'll get some molly with the arp's.
Just go ahead and do yourself the favor and spend the 4 or 5 bucks for a whole tube of molly and lube everything. |
06-02-2007, 04:55 AM | #10 |
Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007
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Agreed, use some good moly to lube all the moving parts. Nothing's worse than a dry start. Simply pouring motor oil over the cams doesn't do nearly as good of a job as lubing all the bearings, cam lobes and seals, valves and so on with a proper assembly lubricant.
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