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#1 |
AEM EMS
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: UK
Posts: 891
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Mine started knocking at start up from cold and then disappeared until about 2,000 revs to 2,500 revs. At any other revs you couldn't hear it. Once the engine had warmed up it sounded normal at tick over.
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#2 |
Stock
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Denmark
Posts: 5
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haha ok Bill once the bill from Toyota comes I might wish I never bought the car.
Well, mine sounds like a new car on start up. Only when you drive it at normal town cruising up to 2-3000 rpm you can hear the tapping when one changes gears " a sort of tapping". Actually a bit like this one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0Zq6-YaKDU It sounds just like mine. Only this car has a slight rattle once idling - my car hasn't. It sounds fine! I hope it can be a valve lifter problem. Uhhh, I hope not to find metal in my oil filter. :-( I am not going to drive the Supra before the things are sorted out. But Bill it actually sounds like we don't have the same symptoms after all. At least I hope my problems aren't that big. What did you do to your car? Did you fix it yourself? Bill, I appreciate your replies! thanks! :-) |
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#3 |
Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Billings, Montana
Posts: 1,034
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I don't know if this helps or not, but I used to own a 95 Saturn SC1. I put Mobil 1 oil in it at one of the oil changes, and shortly later it developed a similair condition. The only difference between the video's sound clip and mine is that my knocking went away at about 2000 rpms. I didn't own the car long enough to take it apart and fix (plus it was a POS anyway) cause it got impounded. I had talked to a mechanic briefly about it and he said that the Mobil 1 oil tends to seperate itself when put into engines that haven't used it since the beginning. He didn't tell me why this happens though...
Anyway, I don't really have any advice on how to resolve it, but all I know is it doesn't sound like rod knock (or at least what I've heard from before my Supra's engine blew).
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1989 7MGTE R154 Targa Top White Package w/Blue Interior Driftmotion 57trim CT26, Upgraded Intercooler, 2.25" Hard Pipes, 3" Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe, HKS VPC w/GM 3 bar MAP sensor, APEXi S-AFC, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, ProSport EVO Series Boost / Fuel Pressure / AFR gauges, Lotek a Pillar Gauge Pod, HKS Type 0 Turbo Timer, Eibach Lowering Springs, Tokico Illumina II TEMS struts, custom powder coated Motegi Racing TrakLite wheels |
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#4 |
Stock
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Denmark
Posts: 5
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Well I tried to change all the engine oil this morning. I just had to, to see what happened.
Well. The oil pressure nearly trippeled. :-| No metallic parts in the oil or the oil filter. The engine was quiet and was quiet for a long time even when reving. Then I started the engine again. At start up a short rattle came and then it was quiet. Then the oil pressure came back to low again about 1 kg/cm2 at idle revs. Now it makes a continous rattle and at about 2500 rpm I can sense the engine is a tad bit irradical. I will remove the valve cover to see what is going on underneath.. If it's a valve lifter or several the task is for me now to find a lifter in a stack of 24... :-/ Have a Supra Day. :-) |
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#5 |
12psi boost
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Athens, TX
Posts: 308
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My 7mge was doing the same thing but mine more sounded like ignition timeing. Since then I have removed the motor and took a look I could find no internal damage it was a lift shim that was to far away from the cam and when you get on it the cam would rattle it. From what I heard in that video it doesnt sound like that. Completly off subject did you read the one from that civic guy ROFL because supras are mad fast. Anyways my 86.5 did that when driving it one day and it turned out to be a rod bearing took a dump because my distributor was leaking and it is kinda hard to see underneath it to see the leak. Cost me 1600 in parts to rebuild then I could have bought a 40k motor for that. It sounds like a pain but someone told me on a 7m you could pull the pan in car and check the bearings. I know on a 1JZ it has a two peice oil pan so I know you can on it. Try to get the pan off if the valve cover thing doesnt pay off. Look for metal in the pan and look at the bearings to see there is any bad wear.
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1987 supra NA 5 speed 1JZGTE swap Tokico Illumina 2 and Eibach springs Tokico pillow blocks Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bar HKS super dragger cat-back exhaust plus test pipe Greddy Profec B spec 2 boost controller HKS type 1 turbo timer Supra sport solid steel drive shaft Walboro 255 fuel pump JZA70 Front end mod 18" Volk Racing AV3 18x8.5 front 18x9.5 rear |
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#6 |
Stock
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ireland
Posts: 20
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Hi Arne,
Did you manage to find out what the problem was?, the knocking and low oil pressure? My '89 7mgte has developed the same problem!!! |
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#7 |
Stock
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: three-six-oh
Posts: 11
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if your car sits for a long period of time, the rod bearings can get damaged. it tends to stick which makes the bearing break when you start it. before you store your car, it would be a good idea to change the oil first so the bearings dont stick and get damaged.
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proud owner of a fresh 87' supra
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#8 |
Stock
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Altamonte Springs
Posts: 1
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As of July 31, 2009 I own my first RWD car that's Manual. I'm very happy about owning a Supra especially because the 3rd Gen. is my Favorite. But It has lots of Problems, the 7mge engine is NO GOOD. When the engine turns over It starts to knocking and clunking, then It over heats so much if you try to pop the hood your hand will get burned, it makes so much smoke that the Sheriff pulled me over. Engine OIL is leaking. The radiator literally boils. The Sheriff had the Fire Department on stand by. It's that BAD.
Right NOW I need my supra to run as a daily driver. HOW much do you think I would spend rebuilding the 7MGE? and that means AVOID having the Fire Department on STAND BY. |
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