another f*** up!!
 

i was told to take the valves out of the head to get the head machined. is this true? that should have been my question before i started taking the vavles out. i went a bought a valve spring compressor. this was the shietiest thing i ever saw. first the thing i got with it to push the spring down didnt even fit on there right so i had to mod it a little. even then it didnt work right and i went to push the spring down and i scracthed were the lifter goes and i think i fucked it up cause the lifter wont fit into its spot anymore. wtf do i do?? can i sand it down a bit or not? please help. thanks

loc

here is the pics

You do not need to take the valves out. You just need to take the camshafts out because the valves will close automatically and you will have plenty of space to resurface the head. That is what I had done to my 87 Turbo Supra.

Also by looking at the picture, I would say DO NOT sand it down because that could throw off the OEM clearences and I would not even try to put that togther.

when i got my head machined i didnt take out the valves or spring or anything just got it down to the cams and they did the psrings and valves for me and put them back in too, so maybe you dont need to .

wtf thats some shit dude


so what should i do?
new head?
just say fuck it, sand it down and try and use it?
any other ideas that have not come yet?

Let the machine shop tell you what to do.

Any decent machine shop will take a head with the cams still bolted in even with the cam gears still on. They will take all of it off so, like stated, the valves will be closed allowing for the sealing surface to get cut. They will replace the cam seals, torque all the caps to spec and make sure they get installed into their original order.

I would just take the head as is to a good machine shop and have them figure it out, they will let you know if you need a new head or not, my guess would be the head is fine.

yeah i took the head to a shop today and they said they will see what they can do about that problem (he said they will tey using cheese cloth) im getting the head maged and milled and possibly a valve job which comes to a grand total of $400 for the head to look like it just came off the factory assembly line

just got the head back today. cost $400 for a mag and mill and then a valve job


taking the block in next week


there is still a little gash do think it will effect anything? (second pic)

Have a better picture of the "gash". The surface looks a little rough, if you're going with an OEM HG it's fine if you're going MHG I'd lap it.

heres some closer pics

what does lapping consit of? how do i do it?

im going mhg

Welp atleast most of that will be removed during the machining process.
So you have nothing much to worry about with the head.

But lapping the block is an entirely different story. It's not a quick job. I sanded on mine for a good while. You'll need a machined straight edge and a feeler gauge. You're going to need a sanding block long enough to lay across the block.

You have to remove the feeler or guide pins on the front and rear of the actual block. You'll need to stuff your cylinder walls with trifolded towels and you want to drop a bit below tdc. So you don't sand on 1 and 6.

Do yourself a favor and pull the damn thing and take it someplace and have it done right if you don't think you can handle it. It takes a bit the first time and you want to do it 1 fail swoop. Don't tear it down and let it sit for a few months.

I spent the better part of a year planning my build. It's nearly completed.

Good Luck.

did you read this full thread supramacist? i have a jdm engine sitting on my garage floor and the picture of the head is after they got done maching

Best of Luck.

I wouldnt use it until that gauge is out of it. But if the machine shop said it was ok, you could press your luck.

I'm leaving this open but if people start fighting, I'll lock it.

Re-machine the head man.

No I hadn't read it all the way through. I had been following loosely.
Unless you caused the damage the machine shop should repair the head.

I can't believe a machine shop would let you have it back with that gash in it.

and another thing is that they didnt tell me how much they took off when i got it machined. they couldnt remeber

:eek3: Uhh, thats kind of important. Now you have to measure the head and compare to what it is stock. I would not do business with them anymore. Take it to another shop and have them look at the gash in the head and tell them to machine it more if they need to.

My machinist took his time with my parts and I didn't get all of my bolts back.

But the head looked sweeeeet. That gouge..., I couldn't lay it on an HKS MHG with good conscience. Definitely DO NOT take it back to the same machine shop.

Find another one. They will have to take it apart and redo it basically all again I would think. So you may as well concider a port and polish. It'll cost a little bit more but it should be well under and not over 500 bucks.

That way you'll feel better about the entire situation. I wish I would have done mine. I ported and polished the air intake. I used a dremel with the pencil grinder attachment and a bunch of flapper wheels. You can go to the nub with those things.

well fuck i cant go spend another 200 for another shop to do what the shop was supposed to do. thats how these fuckers make money. im taking it back to the shop i had it orginaly done so they can fix it for free. but deffintly im going to take the block to a diffrent shop. im so fuckin pissed about this whole situation. im mean its hard enough to find parts and money for this project and then have a bunch of cock suckers half ass what you cant do yourself. its fuckin bullshit!!! im still new to tuning and im workin my summers away making $8.00 an hour in a hot ass kitchen.


sorry for the ramble. i need to vent somehow

oh and can anyone tell me what the stock head is so i can figure how much they shaved off

I wouldn’t be too concerned about marks on the head you highlighted, they are due to the block and stock gasket having a waterway and no waterway in the head, in other words the mark is due to the head having no waterway. Some supra owners have drilled through the head in that location to try and increase the cooling efficacy, not sure of the results or why Toyota didn’t continue the waterway through to the head. The surface finish on the head is normally left to a competent machine shop, lots of info in these links. http://www.aa1car.com/library/ar996.htm

http://www.q-e-p.co.uk/cylinderheads.asp

Stock cylinder head measures 116mm ( 4.567 inch) thick.

no shit. how do you think the rest of the head looks?

Difficult to say looking at the pic`s, there seems to be some surface scratches I wouldn’t expect to see after machining. As I said I will be picking up a head next week from a machine shop I've used often over the years. I’ll post some close up photo's of the head surface which may help you compare yours to. Some heads in this link.
http://www.toyota-supra.info/forums/...&page=11&pp=10

thank


you wouldnt know the orginal size of the head would u?

You should pm Ij. Or one of the forum specialists. They will know off the top of their heads. I do not have that 411 or I would give it up.

It’s the bottom line of my post No22.
Stock cylinder head measures 116mm ( 4.567 inch) thick.

and thats from were the valve cover meets the head tho were the head meets the block right

i went out and bought a caliper to measure and it comes out to about 116mm even

does that sound right?

and i called the shop and they said they have worked with peaple putting mhgs on and that all i have to do is spray the head gasket with cooper. do you guys think that sounds right?

You do NOT spray metal gaskets of any kind with permatex copper spray.

That is for any other type of gasket besides metal and rubber. Some of these guys do that. I used permatex on all of my paper or whatever they are composite gaskets. The stuff works great if you use it on the appropriate seals.

well anyway i took it to another more reliable maching place (carquest) they use a diamond cutter instead of a stone. he said they fucked up on a corner of the head so he had to machine a little farther down. another $60 down the drain.:frown:


so that machine shop really sucked a lot of dick then. i dont even know if they did a valve job and replaced the oil seals. ill post some pics of the head when i pic it up tommorow.

$60.00 is a small price to pay for the repair. It's probably the best 60 bucks you could have spent thus far.

your right it was the best $60 i spent i got a boner when i saw it. heres some pics. the last one is what it looked like before. the new head is 4.563".

It looks good man. I guess you are just going to have to live with the gouges.

I would use an HKS beaded hg, If not the toyota oem replacement. I guess it depends on what you want to do with the car.

There' only 1 machinist here in town that does engines. He works out of the old napa bldg. The closest spped shop is an hour and a half away. But that's like a drive to eat out after having lived in california. So it wouldn't bother me to drive it and drop it off and go back to pick it up a few days later.

next got to score some cash and do the block. deffintly going mhg


most likely going to be hks

The HKS beaded is an MHG. Just fyi.

found a new shop and there ganna do the block. surface the block change bearings and piston rings and put a new timming belt and tensioner on. and clean it. they mentioned something about polishing the crank shaft. will that have any performance boost at all and is it worth it?

The only way that will help is if it is weight reduced, unless you think that's going to make it spin faster at lower rpm's or something. I don't see that as logical. IMO.

i found out that polishing the crank helps it move through oil better.