code 51
 

alright so i've been recently having an issue with my custom intercoller pipes and they keep popping apart, couldnt seem to get the clams to tighten up enough. so i just ordered 3 J-bolt clams "spring loaded" to try out. but thought i would mention that it has came off about 25 times now. care just goes putt putt putt blahhhhh. :) and then i do a quick temp fix to hold it back together. my BOV "HKS SSQV" is in need of serious attention the spring is cut and its needing to be greased every week. i just ordered a greddy type RS bov so i should have that problem fixed soon. but now that pipe has came off today and now when at idle my CEL flashes a code 51. switch condition signal. what you all think i should look for and test out?

any ideas? oh i just got the whole exhaust system done 3inch no cats. sounds awesome. mm and right after that my alternator belt started to fall apart whats going on here lol!?!?!?!?

ok or not, mmm btw the idle is very low and the air/fuel gauge "my inaccurate one" is going all over the place. up and down when under load it is ideal almost lean then i let off the gas and then sometimes it will goto rich. at idle the check engine light will either flash the code or just continously flash. and then the after doing load then going to idle the rpms will kinda pop around a little like go from 900 rpms then pop down to 650 somtimes 600. then about 3-5secs after that the CEL will just start flashing away, but again the light will go away when it is on load

The easiest thing to check would be the idl switch on the TPS. Just pop the connecter and read terminals IDL and E2 with an Ohm meter for continuity at idle. Just read it with the engine off though. If you are reading an open circuit then you will need to see why by first taking off the linkage to the TPS which is how you should read it anywayz and see how that reads.
For a turbo engine it should read continuity until the throttle opens to .9mm on a feeler guage. The feeler guage is checked on the throttle stop and small screw.
The instuctions are on page FI-100 in the TSRM FI section.
You can rule out the NSW if you have a manual transmission Unless you have an automatic trans ECU, then that might be something there.
You didn't mention anything about your A/C so its probably your TPS needing an adjust.

well i dont know if the A/C works right now. because it doesnt have that freeon stuff to begine with, and now there isnt a belt on it, i was planning on just taking the A/C out anyways. i just got the new BOV so far its working great just needs a little adjusting. ill try to test conductuity for the IDL and E2 today. other than that i have another TPS i can try to just put on there and not have to worry about anything. and if i get this right basically when i adjusting the TPS is just by loosening the 2 screws and turning the TPS clockwise or counter clockwise. untill its idleing right? and what stopper screw are we talking about. the one right on the linkage to the TB or the other one kinda under the linkage.

ok so we tested the terminals with the ohm meter. we even tested it with it off the TB. and we were getting readings. then we adjusted it and we tryed it all the way clockwise and the idle went up but when you hit the throttle the rpms would dive down about 100-200 rpms then go up and the motor would die. when it was all the was counter clockwise it get great throttle response but low idle, and was less prominent to the motor shutting off. i even switched off the TPS with the other one i have and it did the same things. i dont know what is going on with this thing but its going all weird. oh and when it dives down after giveing it throttle there is a little puff of smoke that comes out the muffler. but after every shift its having to recover itself.

oh and the CEL is still flashing at idle 2 flashes per sec.

You said your getting a reading? What reading exactly?
The low idle can be compensated for by the idle screw at the base of the stop throttle body. Look at page 101 of the TSRM 07_FI and it shows you exactly where it is. Set your base idle with this screw to what ever you want and then you can fine tune it with the dashpot adjustment. You will still need to make sure your IDL switch is closed at idle and adjust your TPS with the feeler guage after the idle is set to whatever you prefer.
If the light still flashes the 51 code even after clearing the codes by pulling the fuse and the IDL switch is set properly then I would suggest reading the wires from the ECU to everything that you can. You can probably do this in about a half hout to an hour and it gets you familiar with your cars electrical system.