Tell you fella's what. - Page 3

supramacist · 06-26-2007, 07:58 PM

Alright. I went over the cr with the voltmeter today and everything is as it should be.

I jacked the car up and found a connect about 6 inches long coming from the transmission. I had the male end in the wrong place. And I found the plug that I didn't know went to the starter. The tsrm insisted there was one.

Well now the starter is hot and clicking but won't spin the flywheel. So I have a new one on the way from toyota. I have a buddy with small arms that can remove the starter without having to disconnect the air intake.

Praise ye the lord. I'll know more when I get the new starter in and installed. The car should fire then. Everything is where it should be.

Can't wait to get the walbro pumping and see what I have done here come to life. I still have to get a new hatch glass put in asap. And then the eibacks and tokico's. We should be good. I hope.

cre · 06-27-2007, 02:19 AM

Excellent!!! You sure your battery has enough juice to turn the starter over? I'd just hate to see you get a new one in there and it does the same thing.

supramacist · 06-27-2007, 05:16 AM

The battery was peaking out at 12.2/3 Under load was pulled to 11.5

I'm sure the battery is good. It's the optima red top 6 pack style. This battery is soooooo the shit. I highley recomend you gents getting your hands on one.

It's kind of like ARP hardware for your electrical system.

edit: I'll be taking this new starter to a parts house and having it tested before I install it. I will probably have the one I remove tested as well before I relenquish it as a core. Something janky is a foot and I intend to to snuff it out.

I'm ready to hear this biotch growel.

I took the volt meter to everything today. It has to be the bendix in the starter. It is nothing else. It's all as it's supposed to be. We'll see. This crapolla never goes as we want it too.

cre · 06-27-2007, 05:24 AM

I'd give it a thorough charge and then try again.

Don't get me started on Optimas.

EDIT: If you really want a wicked battery look into the DieHard Platinum. They're deep cycle like the blue top Optima, are far better built and have a higher reserve capacity, CA and CCA than the same size Optima... by the way, both are manufactured by the same company: Johnson Controls.

supramacist · 06-27-2007, 05:30 AM

NO. let's get you started on optimas. tell me what you know that I do not.

It's the shit battery bro. I mean that was with the engine lugging it down.
That's not bad but it could use a charge.

I mean my engine is dead. It's all stopping at the starter.
That's a walbro fuel pump pulling on it as well. it's not the strongest battery in the series. I'm digg'n it like a grave cat daddy. It's so damned pretty.

cre · 06-27-2007, 07:17 AM

Hey if it works for you that's great. I just replaced mine after a year of use and a refused warranty claim... it would still hold 60% of a charge after a couple hours, so it's "fine". It won't even start my '71 Super Beetle. I know a few people who've had them fail.

I really don't think they're the worst thing out there, but they're MILES from being called "the best" much less "better".

I won't go filling the forum with poorly remembered info. Do a search on Google. There was a good automotive electronics site which had a huge thread full of info and pics of dissected bad batteries (all types) and explanations of what the source of failure was. The issues here are the very thin electrodes and the volume of electrolyte. Basically, they're demanding a large yield from components that are, if anything, weaker than those of conventional batteries.

Of course talking to JetJock only served to ingrain my dislike for that big gray with red top doorstop presently sitting in my dad's garage... I've even got to pay to get rid of that lump. Of course, Sears would have disposed of it when I bought my new battery, but I thought hey, I've got a car with almost no electronics that needs a (sealed) battery... well after a few hours off the charger it won't even start that tiny VW engine. I figure when I get ready to sell the Bug, I'll head over to Optima central (they're HQed here in CO) and try one last time to get it replaced.

supramacist · 06-27-2007, 09:56 PM

Damn that sucks. Why did you tell me to get the optima.??????? lol

kidding.

But seriously. I pulled the starter today or my small armed friend did with my help, as it were. And the damn thing tested good. We pulled the starter relay and metered it as well. Looked good on the volt meter.

I am stumped.

06-27-2007, 05:16 AM	#23
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	The battery was peaking out at 12.2/3 Under load was pulled to 11.5 I'm sure the battery is good. It's the optima red top 6 pack style. This battery is soooooo the shit. I highley recomend you gents getting your hands on one. It's kind of like ARP hardware for your electrical system. edit: I'll be taking this new starter to a parts house and having it tested before I install it. I will probably have the one I remove tested as well before I relenquish it as a core. Something janky is a foot and I intend to to snuff it out. I'm ready to hear this biotch growel. I took the volt meter to everything today. It has to be the bendix in the starter. It is nothing else. It's all as it's supposed to be. We'll see. This crapolla never goes as we want it too. Last edited by supramacist; 06-27-2007 at 05:21 AM.

06-27-2007, 05:24 AM	#24
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	I'd give it a thorough charge and then try again. Don't get me started on Optimas. EDIT: If you really want a wicked battery look into the DieHard Platinum. They're deep cycle like the blue top Optima, are far better built and have a higher reserve capacity, CA and CCA than the same size Optima... by the way, both are manufactured by the same company: Johnson Controls. Last edited by cre; 06-27-2007 at 05:31 AM.

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06-26-2007, 07:58 PM	#21
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Alright. I went over the cr with the voltmeter today and everything is as it should be. I jacked the car up and found a connect about 6 inches long coming from the transmission. I had the male end in the wrong place. And I found the plug that I didn't know went to the starter. The tsrm insisted there was one. Well now the starter is hot and clicking but won't spin the flywheel. So I have a new one on the way from toyota. I have a buddy with small arms that can remove the starter without having to disconnect the air intake. Praise ye the lord. I'll know more when I get the new starter in and installed. The car should fire then. Everything is where it should be. Can't wait to get the walbro pumping and see what I have done here come to life. I still have to get a new hatch glass put in asap. And then the eibacks and tokico's. We should be good. I hope.

06-27-2007, 02:19 AM	#22
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Excellent!!! You sure your battery has enough juice to turn the starter over? I'd just hate to see you get a new one in there and it does the same thing.

06-27-2007, 05:30 AM	#25
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	NO. let's get you started on optimas. tell me what you know that I do not. It's the shit battery bro. I mean that was with the engine lugging it down. That's not bad but it could use a charge. I mean my engine is dead. It's all stopping at the starter. That's a walbro fuel pump pulling on it as well. it's not the strongest battery in the series. I'm digg'n it like a grave cat daddy. It's so damned pretty.

06-27-2007, 07:17 AM	#26
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Hey if it works for you that's great. I just replaced mine after a year of use and a refused warranty claim... it would still hold 60% of a charge after a couple hours, so it's "fine". It won't even start my '71 Super Beetle. I know a few people who've had them fail. I really don't think they're the worst thing out there, but they're MILES from being called "the best" much less "better". I won't go filling the forum with poorly remembered info. Do a search on Google. There was a good automotive electronics site which had a huge thread full of info and pics of dissected bad batteries (all types) and explanations of what the source of failure was. The issues here are the very thin electrodes and the volume of electrolyte. Basically, they're demanding a large yield from components that are, if anything, weaker than those of conventional batteries. Of course talking to JetJock only served to ingrain my dislike for that big gray with red top doorstop presently sitting in my dad's garage... I've even got to pay to get rid of that lump. Of course, Sears would have disposed of it when I bought my new battery, but I thought hey, I've got a car with almost no electronics that needs a (sealed) battery... well after a few hours off the charger it won't even start that tiny VW engine. I figure when I get ready to sell the Bug, I'll head over to Optima central (they're HQed here in CO) and try one last time to get it replaced.

06-27-2007, 09:56 PM	#27
supramacist 1000whp postwhore Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Escape from the Prison Planet Posts: 1,356	Damn that sucks. Why did you tell me to get the optima.??????? lol kidding. But seriously. I pulled the starter today or my small armed friend did with my help, as it were. And the damn thing tested good. We pulled the starter relay and metered it as well. Looked good on the volt meter. I am stumped.