stupied question on head removal
 

I have got all the right tools now the hex sockets and got most of the parts off the engine like the cam shafts, valve covers, exhast manifold, and other parts. All I need is the intake mainifold off, the bolts are jamed on there and some of them have been rounded off. so my stupied question is can you just loosen the head bolts and take them all out, to where the head is ready to come off and pull the head with the intake mainifold off togheter and work on the manifold where I have more room and can get some chananal locks on the rounded off bolts is this possible

You should have enough room to get to that screw but since their it two parts to the intake manifold you first need to remove the one where the throttle body sits on and the isc sits on. Once you get that then remove the lower intake manifold and it would make it very easy to get to.
Also you did not need to remove the camshafts you just needed to rotate them maybe once or twice to get to the headbolts.

One more tip, when you remove either bolts that are old or rusty dont apply full force just tap it with your palm a few times and that will break it loose and then you will be able to remove the screw or screws and wont have to worrie that much about breaking them.

Hope thie helps and G/L.

Pull the head with the intake on. As long as you remove down to the y pipe you should be good.

The you can figure out how to the get them off a bit easier.

so it is possible to remove it all together

Yeah you can pull the head with the intake plenum attached. Make sure everything else is out of the way though.

At your local auto parts store you can get a set of sockets made for stripped heads. Usualy called "easy outs" ,they have a design that bites into the metal (for removal only). I lost a couple bolts myself ,but home depot is great for replacing all your low grade bolts. Good luck!

do places like home depot or lowes carry any grade 8 or 5 bolts

I'm afraid not. You need to order head bolts and the like from an auto parts supplier. I only use home depot bolts for "low stress" applications.

Home Depot does (or at least used to) carry grade 8 bolts, but not in metric sizes. I have found that most of the smaller chains around here carry or can order them though.

Let's get back on topic here.

If you are still on stock head bolts. The least you can do is order toyota oem's.
But you should go ARP and sleep alot easier. You are going to need a torqu wrench. pay attention to your head. Place the washers on the grooves before your studs or bolts. I went with studs. Hard to beat a studded engine if your'e going for a DD big boy toy.

HKS Stopper MHG. You want one.
How is your block? Did you have it machined?
Give us details man. Help us help you.

You can remove the exhaust mani from the block and leave it plugged up if you like. Just bungy cord it out of the way. You can leave the upper and lower plenum on. And remove the head..., you'll want help removing it. I would remove the fan shroud and the fan and probably drop the alternator just to be on the safe side. Hell. I would remove the radiator, you have to empty it first anyhow. It's nothing to pull out. Climb in and break the head loose. They tend to be a pita. A long a$$'d screwdriver / prybar. Don't fluck anything up.

what is all the fuel parts you have to remove I have unhooked to injector plugs but not removed the injectors yet but do you have to remove the fuel rail and all the hoses because I did not see that in the haynes manual but I might have read it wrong and for the head can you tap it gently with a soft hammer instead of using a pry bar and maybe mest up something

You can leave the fuel rail attached if you choose.

Just dis-connect from the wiring harness.

cool thanks then every thing is about ready to come out

You know you are going to have to strip the head for machining, right.

What are you really trying to accomplish here, if I may.

The radiator and friends does come out so easy ,and you would realy hate yourself if you damaged it by getting in a hurry. One of my favorite methods for encouraging head off is a hammer and wooden block. Hold the wood against the head ,and no harder than tapping ,work your way around untill it's loose. Saves the scratching that prying can do to sensitive aluminum.

supramascis I know I have to replace the head gasket, in another forum I had a question about the engine. the motor would only turn so far with a breaker bar when trying to rotate it by hand because, the engine just locked up when I first tried to start it. and what alot of people said was it could be a rod thrown through the engine and told me to look places under the car, I did not see any places that looks like a rod or bearing was thrown out of the engine so I had to save some money and buy a head gasket and started to tear it down. and Im hoping to find a bent valve because It would make me fill better than see nothing and try to find another problem that would be more difficult to repair or replace the whole engine entirly. do you know how much it cost to do the machine work.

okay I have worked all today on the supra the head is lose and can move but it will not come all the way out, what could it be stuck on. there are some sensor wires that look like they go under the intake manifold, but it does not say much in the haynes manual about removing wires. what are all the wires you have to unhook to get the head off, and what to do with the fuel rail hook ups they seem to be in the way also, {I have unhooked them but they are a weird shape to get out from under the intake maifold}

This is a perfect example of what trying to cut corners gets you when working on these cars guys.

I am going to need more input to be able to figure out what's holding it.

I bet it's your egr coupled to the upper plenum.