See, now thats one thing I don't believe in. Re-torqueing head bolts or studs on jap engines. It doesn't say to do it in the TSRM. And I've put 2000 miles on my head gasket and the only time I had a socket on my ARP bolts was when I installed the head 4 months ago. PLUS, you have to remove the intake, exhaust and turbo (if applicable) braces and the turbo oil feed and return line in order to be able to properly torque the head bolts. You won't get an accurate reading if you try to torque head bolts with all that shit still bolted to the block.

My buddy installed ARP head studs on his 05 EVO and he never re-torqued them. Has close to 20K miles on them with no problems.

85lbs of torque is tight. I honestly don't know how much they could really move. It's one of those things you hear so often that it must be true.

Kind of like Jimmy Page worshiping the devil.

I don't know if it's a myth or not but the sound of not messing with them sounds appealing to me. I know how I built my car. I don't know why it won't crank.
But it's built right from the MHG up. No expense was spared.

Other than my lapping the block myself. Machine em guys cause if you don't you'll just wish that you did. Even though I am confident in my job done.
The car could reject it again.

Well let me just say this: anyone that claims they re-torqued their head bolts on a turbo MK3 is full of shit. You have to remove the turbo to remove the exhuast manifold brace and turbo oil line. Now that is retarded, removing the turbo just to retorque head bolts. I doubt anyone has ever done that. If you just pulled the cam covers off and torqued away, the torque didn't go to the head bolts, it got distributed through all of the braces that bolt to the block. Thats why I used a digital torque wrench, very accurate. Do it right, do it once :cool:

I didn't just torque away. But I get your drift.