2 Questions: 1 About Overheating, 1 About HeadUnit Adaptor
 

Ok ill start with the easier question first,

Anyone know where I can get an adaptor for the console that will hold a CD player instead of the stock radio? Right now I just have my headunit resting there. Also the headunits heatsink, at least I hope thats what it is, is getting hot and im afraid if it hits the wires it will melt them. Im already getting some slight connection issues from time to time with flickering/etc.




2nd and more difficult question.

Ive had my car for a couple days now, 1989 NA 5speed 190k miles. When I got it, it hadnt been driven for a year or so. Needed a new water pump which I replaced. It was then driveable, and after a tune up and some little parts here and there it was ready to go.

Driving on the highway I realized it was overheating after 20-30 mins of 60+mph. The RPms were at about 4k or so from what I remember, and the cars engine sounded loud. But I just figured thats how these cars run.

Anyways, I replaced the thermostat, then did the whole HG job which was a royal pain in the __. That still didnt fix the problem. Next I tried flushing the system incase of any air pockets/bubbles. STILL overheated on the highway. Radiator cap looks ok too.


Weird part is, it only overheats on the highway. If I keep it under 60 mph, it wont overheat. That is unless I drive it a little harder, then it will run hot. But when I granny drive it, it doesnt overheat.

Also I noticed, if I drive it at about 50-60 for 20 mins or so, sort of agressively, and then drop down to 20-40, it seems to almost immediately begin to overheat and run hot. It didnt when I was at the 50-60, but when the speed decreased it ran hotter, which may make sense since I was in a lower gear, but my RPMs might have been the same.


In any matter, im hoping this isnt still a faulty HG, im not sure what else it is. I seem to have a lot of problems with overheating since my other car which is a 94 Eagle Talon, also had a bad water pump and thermostat, and now needs a new engine due to a crack in the block.

Is there any opinions out there as to what I should do? The car drives fine all day long at low speeds, it gets me around fine and sounds and drives beautifully. The car does slightly burn oil, but not badly at all. Coolant and oil levels are normal.

Thanks in advance for any help!

?? Can anyone help me out here??

What are you running as coolant?

Is there oil in your overflow cannister?

What is it about the engine that seems loud?

Can you see into the radiator? Is it covered with crap or is it clean?

When you top off the coolant is it always low and by how much?

Are you running stock hose clamps?

Is your fan shroud in good shape?

How's your fan clutch?

Are you smaller fans working?

Thanks for the reply, im not a big gear head so I apologize for my naivety on some of the parts. Appreciate the help so far!

your fan clutch it the aluminum piece between your fan and water pump. to test it get the car hot and turn it off, you should not be able to turn the fan.

the smaller fans are for the A/C, which wouldn't really have anything to do with an overheating problem.

is there sufficient flow to the radiator? like is there shit in front of it that would cause it to get no airflow?

The head unit adapter that your looking for you can get at wal-mart and even best buy. It is a multiple adapter that fits pretty much all toys just look for the year and fit on the back. As for the wireing harness pigtail that I recommend you get you can get it the same place.

If he's running the ac and the fans aren't functioning, he may overheat.


Now...., coolant. You can fill the rad with straight coolant. You will overheat more quickley. You want to maintain the 50/50 mix. Unless you live somewhere like alaska or the north pole or some shit.

Damn I just sat down for a check and I haven't the time to go into it and I want to think about those questions.

But straight coolant will mess your shit up. And also..., only distilled water goes into the rad unless you want to rust it out from the inside.

I'll post up again.

I have to split right now.

(QUOTE) your fan clutch is the aluminum piece between your fan and water pump. to test it get the car hot and turn it off, you should not be able to turn the fan.

You WILL be able to turn the fan. It should be firm, and not 'free-spin' more than 1/2 a turn. New clutch is approx $90.

Do a block-test to make sure your HG is sealing good. You descriptions sound like BHG.

yea, my bad, it should just be firm to turn

Alright...., hose clamps. I just drove my supra for the first time the other day and are taking a break from it before tweakage.

During the test drive I blew a coolant line. The one on the back of the head straight down the galley.

I coasted into a buddies place and tightened it up. I had burnt coolant from hitting the block. Coming in through the vents. When I got home.

My low coolant light came on so. I topped it and now it needs a burp.

But hose clamps...., I noticed while reving the engine from under the hood.
That I had a few coolant lines that would spit high pressure streams. At high rpm's. It has to be because the stock clamps are weak. So I have to flush and worm clamp the entire coolant system.

Just something to think about during your build.

Right now it will over heat if you have to much coolant and not enough water.
So I would flush and any other maintenance in that area. Fill with 50/50.

Get it's head in the game and see what it does and we can go from there.

Ofcourse if anyone disagrees with this now would be a good time to chime in.