Rear hatch latch revisited

finaltable · 08-14-2007, 04:52 PM

I went to a Toyota dealership today armed with my keycode read off the cylinder. The key they cut opens every lock on my car EXCEPT the rear hatch, which is stuck in lockout mode. The only thing left to do at this point, I think, is to take the entire back part of the car apart to get to the latch mechanism.

This sucks.

cre · 08-15-2007, 03:26 AM

In most cases I've found that the hatch lock cylinder is bound up. Either pins are clogged with debris from lack of use or the cylinder is frozen. I pulled mine and polished the cylinder and housing with 600 grit sandpaper, then replaced a couple wafers, lubed it up with graphite and haven't had a problem since.

You'd be amazed how often I hear other MKIII owners say "Whoa! You're key open the trunk!?".

I've fixed them for a couple of local folks now.

finaltable · 08-15-2007, 03:30 AM

How do you get the back apart? I've actually attempted this once already and had several of the nuts off and it didn't feel like I was getting any change in the status.

BTW...the mechanism itself does turn a little. It would not surprise me to think that the pins just aren't moving properly when I put the key in. I wonder if squirting some WD-40 in there wouldn't help.

If I am seeing this right, the mechanism itself is under the external reflector in which it is mounted. It also appear that the center section containing the key hole is overlapped by the sections to the left and right and I will need to remove (or at least loosen) those as well.

As I am getting VERY tired of opening the back with a stick I keep in the back seat any guidance you can give me on getting access to this would be appreciated.

cre · 08-15-2007, 03:44 AM

Opening the hatch with a stick? What? Bad hatch strust or the release by the driver's seat doesn't work either?

Do NOT spray WD-40 into a lock! It can make things much worse. It gives dust and other debris something to cling to and can cause dry lubricants to pack into a solid mass which may bind the cylinder or pins.

You could try spraying some powdered graphite into the lock, but if it's the cylinder that's binding it won't do much good. pulling the lock is a bit of a pain. If I remember correctly, you have to pull the center interior panel, loosen the tail lights and then unbolt the exterior center panel. Just take your time with it.

finaltable · 08-15-2007, 03:50 AM

When I got the car from the previous owner the only key she had was the valet key. She didn't realize this was the valet key because she rarely opened the back and when she did she used the latch. I inadvertently turned the lock counterclockwise and put it in lockout mode, thereby disabling the lever by the driver's door as well. Since my top was in the trunk at the time this happened I climbed into the back via the backseat (in 90 degree weather, mind you) and took apart the back so I could get access to the latch mechanism. Since it remains exposed I can open it by pressing it with a long stick. I have since taken apart the passenger door to get the keycode and had a genuine Toyota key made for it. While this key will open the passenger door and glovebox it does NOT open the hatch.

cre · 08-15-2007, 04:07 AM

Never heard of the lock out mode. Yeah, the valet key won't open the hatch (dunno why, they could just cral back there) or the glove box. If you've got a new master (NOTE: When talking about cars a master key is NOT a key that will open all toyotas... sorry, I just hate hearing that) you shouldn't have any problem opening the trunk lock unless there's something wrong with the lock itself.

08-14-2007, 04:52 PM	#1
finaltable 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Texas Gulf Coast Posts: 99	Rear hatch latch revisited I went to a Toyota dealership today armed with my keycode read off the cylinder. The key they cut opens every lock on my car EXCEPT the rear hatch, which is stuck in lockout mode. The only thing left to do at this point, I think, is to take the entire back part of the car apart to get to the latch mechanism. This sucks. __________________ Current ride: Not a Supra :-(

08-15-2007, 03:30 AM	#3
finaltable 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Texas Gulf Coast Posts: 99	How do you get the back apart? I've actually attempted this once already and had several of the nuts off and it didn't feel like I was getting any change in the status. BTW...the mechanism itself does turn a little. It would not surprise me to think that the pins just aren't moving properly when I put the key in. I wonder if squirting some WD-40 in there wouldn't help. If I am seeing this right, the mechanism itself is under the external reflector in which it is mounted. It also appear that the center section containing the key hole is overlapped by the sections to the left and right and I will need to remove (or at least loosen) those as well. As I am getting VERY tired of opening the back with a stick I keep in the back seat any guidance you can give me on getting access to this would be appreciated. __________________ Current ride: Not a Supra :-( Last edited by finaltable; 08-15-2007 at 03:32 AM.

08-15-2007, 03:50 AM	#5
finaltable 3" Exhaust Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Texas Gulf Coast Posts: 99	When I got the car from the previous owner the only key she had was the valet key. She didn't realize this was the valet key because she rarely opened the back and when she did she used the latch. I inadvertently turned the lock counterclockwise and put it in lockout mode, thereby disabling the lever by the driver's door as well. Since my top was in the trunk at the time this happened I climbed into the back via the backseat (in 90 degree weather, mind you) and took apart the back so I could get access to the latch mechanism. Since it remains exposed I can open it by pressing it with a long stick. I have since taken apart the passenger door to get the keycode and had a genuine Toyota key made for it. While this key will open the passenger door and glovebox it does NOT open the hatch. __________________ Current ride: Not a Supra :-(

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Rear Hatch Won't Open-HELP!	Benesesso	MKIII Supra	4	07-21-2008 12:37 PM
rust rear hatch l&r lower window corners	hayduke	Non-Generation Specific Questions	0	12-17-2007 06:24 PM
Styrofoam Inserts in Rear Hatch	bpalmer21	MKIV Supra	0	08-01-2006 04:48 PM
Rear Hatch Cover, retractable	scorpmatt	MKII Supra	4	01-30-2006 05:12 AM

08-15-2007, 03:26 AM	#2
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	In most cases I've found that the hatch lock cylinder is bound up. Either pins are clogged with debris from lack of use or the cylinder is frozen. I pulled mine and polished the cylinder and housing with 600 grit sandpaper, then replaced a couple wafers, lubed it up with graphite and haven't had a problem since. You'd be amazed how often I hear other MKIII owners say "Whoa! You're key open the trunk!?". I've fixed them for a couple of local folks now.

08-15-2007, 03:44 AM	#4
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Opening the hatch with a stick? What? Bad hatch strust or the release by the driver's seat doesn't work either? Do NOT spray WD-40 into a lock! It can make things much worse. It gives dust and other debris something to cling to and can cause dry lubricants to pack into a solid mass which may bind the cylinder or pins. You could try spraying some powdered graphite into the lock, but if it's the cylinder that's binding it won't do much good. pulling the lock is a bit of a pain. If I remember correctly, you have to pull the center interior panel, loosen the tail lights and then unbolt the exterior center panel. Just take your time with it.

08-15-2007, 04:07 AM	#6
cre Toyota Racing Development Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 5,038	Never heard of the lock out mode. Yeah, the valet key won't open the hatch (dunno why, they could just cral back there) or the glove box. If you've got a new master (NOTE: When talking about cars a master key is NOT a key that will open all toyotas... sorry, I just hate hearing that) you shouldn't have any problem opening the trunk lock unless there's something wrong with the lock itself.