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Should i retorque my standard headbolts?
I have been reading a lot of sites and articles about the mkIII in the last month.
There was a website that claimed everyone should retorque their standard headbolts to 75lb from the standard 58, with the chance of actualy CAUSING a headgasket failure, but once the 75 was doing good it wouldn't blow anymore. What do you guys think? Is it an option to do this or are you saying it's bad. Oh, and i'm NOT going to do a metal headgasket unless i have blown one. |
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its hard to say, its pretty much up to preference. people will say its good or bad, it works or it doesnt work....the stock headbolts arent really meant to be reused, they might be able to be torqued higher. its really iffy either way lol....sorry i cant give you a direct answer. |
Hmmm, seems the standard headbolts don't do too well with a retorque after such a long time after install.
I guess i'll just leave em sitting in there till she blows. |
Ok I'm sorry but just leaving it till it blows is retarded.
It's a pain in the a$$ to do this procedure. But it's worth it. ESPECIALLY, if your $hit isn't already blown. Order a set of ARP head bolts. NOT studs. Pull the stockers out in order of the tsrm. 1 at a time. Replace stock hb's with arp hb's. Put them in finger tight. Molly them up nicely. A lil bit of that goes a long way. Get your torque wrench and tighten 1/3rd the way through 3 series of torque sessions. Sorry for the slang. I did mine in 5 series. 10lb and 5lb incriments once they lock up. I took my studs to 85 lbs. Anything around 75 is close enough. I just tend to notice that my rubber slinger likes things more tight than I think within reason. So I went with it. You can do it in a day if you get back on it and stay there. Hope this helps. |
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