2JZ-GTE Crank Pulley Removal
 

can anyone help me? im currently trying to change my crank pulley and am unable to get the bolt undone. any ideas please, i have tried bars, spanners hammers and air guns. i have got a 3/4 drive air gun but but am unable to get it in because of the air con rad, will i jus be better off getting it de-gased and re-gased or anyone now of any other way to lock the pulley. the cars a 94 manual. cheers will
p.s it is definatly right hand thread isnt it?

Yep, I can definitely help. Try these few suggestions - if they don't work, I can probably come up with a more options (I've done it a bunch of times). Please keep me informed:

1. Put the car in 6th gear (or park with an auto) with the emergency brake on, and use a breaker bar with a six foot long pipe (really!). Worst case, the clutch will slip. If that happens, onto the next suggestion...
2. Put the breaker bar+pipe onto the crank pulley nut, and angle the pipe in such a way that it is resting against the floor. Bump the starter - sometimes this will pop it loose. Warning: This method can be dangerous if you aren't careful about which way the engine will turn and which way to ensure the breaker bar+pipe needs to be braced.
3. Make a tool that allows you to hold the crank pulley steady. There are two bolt holes on the crank pulley - just make a large Y-shaped tool out of two pieces of flat steel bar stock. Drill holes near the inside edges of the center of the two top sections in the Y - kind of like this:

___............___
\...\ ........../.../
.\...\ ......../.../
..\..o\....../o../
...\\..\..../.../
....\...\../.../
.....\...V.../
......\./.../
......./.../\
....../.../_\
...../.../
..../.../
.../__/

...again, the holes in the Y bolt to the crank pulley (I don't recall what size the bolts are - probably something like M8 (get a good grade of steel bolt!), about 2" long (please verify this with some bolts you have laying around - post back here when you find out the correct size). You simply brace the 'bottom' of the Y against the floor or the frame, and then use the breaker bar with the pipe again. This method is pretty much guaranteed to work. If you still can't budge it, all you need is a longer pipe. You just have to be sure the holes in the tool are close enough to the edge to not interfere with the socket.

Btw, Toyota sells an SST that makes this pretty easy. I can provide you with info as to how to purchase it if these methods don't work.

Like I said, post back here and let me know how it goes.

thanks mate, i did manage to undo it and change the pulleys yesterday using an air gun whilst getting someone to hit the bolt with a hammer and chisel. thanks again.

Yet another method! Interesting...

Btw, not too sure about how generally recommendable the hammer and chisel part of this method is - worst case, the crank bearings could be affected. *shrug*

lol, yes i was geting desperate but have run the car all weekend and all seems ok, so can only hope.:x:

eeeeeeek
 

yOU MAY WANT TO DROP THE OIL PAN AND MAKE SURE YOU DONT HAVE CRANK WALK NOW !
NEVER TAP ON THE CRANK PARTS !