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Old 10-26-2006, 11:03 AM   #11
SilvaT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
I would say the max goal would be around 520rwhp, yeah if you could recommend a clutch that could hold that without needing to be changed that would be great. With regards to pedal pressure, i would really have a problem with that.

I'll pass on your advise when i speak to my installer, and let you know what he says.

Cheers

T
Sorry ,meant to say WOULDN'T really have a problem with extra pedal pressure!
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Old 10-26-2006, 11:15 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
I would say the max goal would be around 520rwhp, yeah if you could recommend a clutch that could hold that without needing to be changed that would be great. With regards to pedal pressure, i wouldn't really have a problem with that...
The best all-around single disk clutch I'm aware of, for durability and holding power, and all applications except maybe hard-core drag racing is by South Bend. It's their full-face model with the Kevlar disk. Here's a link:
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/supra.html
Click "Skip Intro", then "Catalog", then "Toyota", then "Supra"
"Toyota Supra - Street Series", Part# K922 - TZ Series Stage 2

You might ask why I believe it's the best single disk clutch available for the Mkiv Supra Turbo, for most applications, and my response is that I've seen almost every other single disk clutch break or prematurely wear out in various conditions. In other words, most of the others have serious weak point(s). Note that a common weak point is the ability to stand up to regular old stop-and-go rush hour traffic. For example, it saddens me to say that I personally saw an expensive carbon-carbon clutch reduced to a pricey pile of carbon dust in the bottom of a bellhousing simply because it was daily driven in slow stop-and-go rush hour traffic (slipped as normal when speeds were slower than 1st gear) for a couple of months. I've also seen a carbon-ceramic clutch disk chew up a brand-new oem flywheel with one single drive up onto a steep set of ramps, slipping the clutch for control. Note that an oem clutch would have handled these two situations without any difficulty at all...but of course the oem clutch setup does not handle the power. South Bend's kevlar disk will stand up to all of that (without destroying your flywheel) AND aggressive road course or drag strip driving AND it will hold 520rwhp+ with ease.

Use the South Bend Kevlar clutch ($565) with an RPS 'Cyn-R-G' flywheel (2nd item on the page, Part#RP BF-22170) (~$425) (again, as long as you don't mind the additional tranny noise), with new bearings&snap-rings (from Toyota) and you're set. Do not re-use the oem flywheel, the existing bearings or the existing snap rings. If you decide not to go with a lightened flywheel, do NOT re-use the old flywheel - get a new one from Toyota (~$400). Your old flywheel will have heat spots and will not work properly because of it. Note that the overall combo is just over $1k+shipping, and is MUCH cheaper than most multi-disk clutches...

Here's a clutch install article, but you have to skip past the outdated&biased 'evaluation' section in the beginning. Start reading with this paragraph:
"Prior to putting that nice polished looking flywheel and pressure plate in your car, make sure you sand the metal with some 100 grit sand paper to ruff it up. This will help the surfaces mate once installed..."
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/clutch/index.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
...I'll pass on your advise when i speak to my installer, and let you know what he says.
I'm not sure I offered him any advice...I simply corrected an error in what he was telling his customer(s). I guess my advice to him would be to research and be 100% sure before you pass along critical information...because when you find out your installer has been 'BSing' you, your first thought is that he's trying to rip you off (at least, mine would be). Whether he's actually unscrupulous, or he just made an honest mistake, we may never know. Either way he failed in his responsibility to be MUCH more careful before he passes along inaccurate information like that.
__________________
Phil '94 Supra Turbo, 6spd, 'APU'+
Displacement is no replacement for boost.
Life begins at 30psi.


NB: Please consider posting any help requests in a new thread instead of asking me for help privately. About 99.9+% of the time, private help requests end up covering great information that could be very valuable to other forum members. If you have a good reason for needing the help request to be private, I'll consider it. If not, then why not give everyone else the opportunity to pitch in too, and/or learn from the information? Remember, there's no such thing as a dumb question. We're all here to help within this family of Supra owners.

Last edited by pwpanas; 10-26-2006 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 10-26-2006, 12:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwpanas
The best all-around single disk clutch I'm aware of, for durability and holding power, and all applications except maybe hard-core drag racing is by South Bend. It's their full-face model with the Kevlar disk. Here's a link:
http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/supra.html
Click "Skip Intro", then "Catalog", then "Toyota", then "Supra"
"Toyota Supra - Street Series", Part# K922 - TZ Series Stage 2

You might ask why I believe it's the best single disk clutch available for the Mkiv Supra Turbo, for most applications, and my response is that I've seen almost every other single disk clutch break or prematurely wear out in various conditions. In other words, most of the others have serious weak point(s). Note that a common weak point is the ability to stand up to regular old stop-and-go rush hour traffic. For example, it saddens me to say that I personally saw an expensive carbon-carbon clutch reduced to a pricey pile of carbon dust in the bottom of a bellhousing simply because it was daily driven in slow stop-and-go rush hour traffic (slipped as normal when speeds were slower than 1st gear) for a couple of months. I've also seen a carbon-ceramic clutch disk chew up a brand-new oem flywheel with one single drive up onto a steep set of ramps, slipping the clutch for control. Note that an oem clutch would have handled these two situations without any difficulty at all...but of course the oem clutch setup does not handle the power. South Bend's kevlar disk will stand up to all of that (without destroying your flywheel) AND aggressive road course or drag strip driving AND it will hold 520rwhp+ with ease.

Use the South Bend Kevlar clutch ($565) with an RPS 'Cyn-R-G' flywheel (2nd item on the page, Part#RP BF-22170) (~$425) (again, as long as you don't mind the additional tranny noise), with new bearings&snap-rings (from Toyota) and you're set. Do not re-use the oem flywheel, the existing bearings or the existing snap rings. If you decide not to go with a lightened flywheel, do NOT re-use the old flywheel - get a new one from Toyota (~$400). Your old flywheel will have heat spots and will not work properly because of it. Note that the overall combo is just over $1k+shipping, and is MUCH cheaper than most multi-disk clutches...

Here's a clutch install article, but you have to skip past the outdated&biased 'evaluation' section in the beginning. Start reading with this paragraph:
"Prior to putting that nice polished looking flywheel and pressure plate in your car, make sure you sand the metal with some 100 grit sand paper to ruff it up. This will help the surfaces mate once installed..."
http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/clutch/index.html

I'm not sure I offered him any advice...I simply corrected an error in what he was telling his customer(s). I guess my advice to him would be to research and be 100% sure before you pass along critical information...because when you find out your installer has been 'BSing' you, your first thought is that he's trying to rip you off (at least, mine would be). Whether he's actually unscrupulous, or he just made an honest mistake, we may never know. Either way he failed in his responsibility to be MUCH more careful before he passes along inaccurate information like that.

That sounds great, will most likely go with that! however have you seen exedy-Hyper link clutch,

http://www.wrc-tech.co.uk/exedy.htm

sounds pretty good, wat do you think.
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Old 10-26-2006, 12:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
That sounds great, will most likely go with that!
Good to hear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
however have you seen exedy-Hyper link clutch,
http://www.wrc-tech.co.uk/exedy.htm
Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
sounds pretty good, wat do you think.
Which clutch at that link are you referring to? "Multi plate"? "Hyper single"? "Cerrametallic"? "Oganic"? ???

Either way, here's what I think (since you asked), fwiw:
If you are referring any of the Exedy clutches with "cerametallic" material, I think that material is harder than steel. As a result, I think it will be tough to drive because the "cerametallic" clutch disk material will strongly grab the steel flywheel and steel pressure plate, and tend to either stall the car or spin the tires (depending on rpm when you disengage the clutch pedal). I think if you try to slip that clutch in stop-and-go traffic, or slip it while driving it up onto a ramp or in an incline at stop lights, or slip it when going in reverse uphill (sometimes required when parallel parking), the cerrametallic material will quickly wear into the steel flywheel, which will cause the clutch to hold less power and eventually fail. Did you read the page? It says: "As with all cerametallic clutches, the street drivability may be marginal due to chattering and harsh engagement characteristics." That chattering comes from the cerrametallic material BITING into the steel!!! (Pardon me 'ranting' about this, but I just HATE how it seems that many of these 'racing' clutch manufacturers don't seem to give a rat's @rse about clearly communicating just how poorly their 'racing' clutches may hold up to normal street-driving conditions) Also, I think the Excedy clutches with "organic" material aren't much better than the Mkiv's oem clutch. In short, I think these Excedy clutches are not anywhere near as good a choice as a South Bend kevlar clutch.
__________________
Phil '94 Supra Turbo, 6spd, 'APU'+
Displacement is no replacement for boost.
Life begins at 30psi.


NB: Please consider posting any help requests in a new thread instead of asking me for help privately. About 99.9+% of the time, private help requests end up covering great information that could be very valuable to other forum members. If you have a good reason for needing the help request to be private, I'll consider it. If not, then why not give everyone else the opportunity to pitch in too, and/or learn from the information? Remember, there's no such thing as a dumb question. We're all here to help within this family of Supra owners.

Last edited by pwpanas; 11-06-2006 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 10-26-2006, 12:56 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwpanas
Good to hear.
Yes.
Which clutch at that link are you referring to? "Multi plate"? "Hyper single"? "Cerrametallic"? "Oganic"? ???

Either way, here's what I think (since you asked), fwiw:
If you are referring any of the Exedy clutches with "cerametallic" material, I think that material in clutch disk(s) is harder than steel. As a result, I think it will be tough to drive because the "cerametallic" clutch disk material will strongly grab the steel flywheel and steel pressure plate, and tend to either stall the car or spin the tires. I think if you try to slip that clutch in stop-and-go traffic, or slip it while driving it up onto a ramp or in an incline at stop lights, or slip it when going in reverse uphill, the cerrametallic material will quickly wear into the steel flywheel, which will cause the clutch to hold less power and eventually fail. Did you read the page? It says: "As with all cerametallic clutches, the street drivability may be marginal due to chattering and harsh engagement characteristics. " That chattering comes from the cerrametallic material 'biting' into the steel. Also, I think the Excedy clutches with "organic" material aren't much better than the Mkiv's oem clutch. In short, I think these Excedy clutches are not anywhere near as good a choice as a South Bend kevlar clutch.
Cool, will go with the South Bend clutch and flywheel then.... ill let you know how it goes!

Thanks heaps for the advise, good to talk to someone that actually knows what they are talking about, im sure ill be back for more advise..so be ready...ha ha!!

Last edited by pwpanas; 10-26-2006 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 10-26-2006, 01:02 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
Cool, will go with the South Bend clutch and flywheel then.... ill let you know how it goes!

Thanks heaps for the advise, good to talk to someone that actually knows what they are talking about, im sure ill be back for more advise..so be ready...ha ha!!
I'm glad I could help. Please do come back to post whenever you have a question, or if you can help out one of our other members...
__________________
Phil '94 Supra Turbo, 6spd, 'APU'+
Displacement is no replacement for boost.
Life begins at 30psi.


NB: Please consider posting any help requests in a new thread instead of asking me for help privately. About 99.9+% of the time, private help requests end up covering great information that could be very valuable to other forum members. If you have a good reason for needing the help request to be private, I'll consider it. If not, then why not give everyone else the opportunity to pitch in too, and/or learn from the information? Remember, there's no such thing as a dumb question. We're all here to help within this family of Supra owners.
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Old 10-26-2006, 02:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwpanas
I'm glad I could help. Please do come back to post whenever you have a question, or if you can help out one of our other members...
Added you to my buddy list, in case i wanted to ask anything else.... hope you dont mind.
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Old 10-27-2006, 05:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
Added you to my buddy list, in case i wanted to ask anything else.... hope you dont mind.
No problem at all!
__________________
Phil '94 Supra Turbo, 6spd, 'APU'+
Displacement is no replacement for boost.
Life begins at 30psi.


NB: Please consider posting any help requests in a new thread instead of asking me for help privately. About 99.9+% of the time, private help requests end up covering great information that could be very valuable to other forum members. If you have a good reason for needing the help request to be private, I'll consider it. If not, then why not give everyone else the opportunity to pitch in too, and/or learn from the information? Remember, there's no such thing as a dumb question. We're all here to help within this family of Supra owners.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:41 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilvaT
...I'll pass on your advise when i speak to my installer, and let you know what he says...
Any updates?
__________________
Phil '94 Supra Turbo, 6spd, 'APU'+
Displacement is no replacement for boost.
Life begins at 30psi.


NB: Please consider posting any help requests in a new thread instead of asking me for help privately. About 99.9+% of the time, private help requests end up covering great information that could be very valuable to other forum members. If you have a good reason for needing the help request to be private, I'll consider it. If not, then why not give everyone else the opportunity to pitch in too, and/or learn from the information? Remember, there's no such thing as a dumb question. We're all here to help within this family of Supra owners.
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Old 11-07-2006, 11:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwpanas
Any updates?
Not as yet, i am still awaiting the parts, they take around 10days or so to arrive......need to get the car back on the road ASAP
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