no your right the bad ring was'nt limiting the rpms we did find a BROKE rear cam sensor and i mean bad broke like it was two piece's mybe this was the cause

Strange - that should have been throwing an ecu code...

well get this after i preassure tested it & compression tested it put it all back together to put i back on the trailer to take it vback to my house she fired up ran like shit but no check engine light!??

Sorry, I mean there should have been an ecu code *before* you fixed the cam timing sensor...

no no we havent fixed it yet

So let me get this straight: Your rear cam sensor is broken in two pieces, and you have no check-engine light??? Are you still running the oem ecu, or have you switched to the AEM?

still running the stock ECU man this car has got the bugs or somthin, as of right now the block being bored .20 over the roating assemble is getting balanced (wisco pistons eagle rods AC bearings) so if i see a sensor that even looks like it might be messed up then ill replace it this thing has been broke to long!

I don't know if I'm not getting the complete story here or what, but the approach to finding the problem doesn't make a lot of sense. From your description it seems like the answer to an rpm limit problem was to bore the block and rebuild the bottom end. In truth, even a piston with a very low compression/leakdown won't limit your rpm. What were the compression/leakdown numbers before you all decided to tear down the shortblock? And again, was the ecu showing any codes?

At the very least, I'd ask that you don't tell anyone that we said you should rebuild the engine because of an rpm problem - because we didn't! :) Thanks in advance...

Dude I am telling you the whole story. The only reason we pulled the motor because of was wore out but for all we know it still has the rpm limiting problem

How do you know it was worn out? Was a leakdown test done? Again, was it smoking (whitish-blue) from the exhaust?