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92FoxBody 10-09-2010 09:55 PM

I'm talking about a 1/4 mile race here. No roll races in my stang! They're dogs on the top end. And they might not have been designed for boost or spray but I know people who have been running a 150 shot for 3+ years... And still have the same head gaskets ;) ALL in the tune. I'm not worried about twisties either...My car can go around a turn, don't ge me wrong. But I'm not going to walk up to a supra owner and tell him I'll rip him a new one... :D Thanks for the info guys! :D

pwpanas 10-10-2010 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92FoxBody (Post 88796)
I'm talking about a 1/4 mile race here. No roll races in my stang! They're dogs on the top end. And they might not have been designed for boost or spray but I know people who have been running a 150 shot for 3+ years... And still have the same head gaskets ;) ALL in the tune. I'm not worried about twisties either...My car can go around a turn, don't ge me wrong. But I'm not going to walk up to a supra owner and tell him I'll rip him a new one... :D Thanks for the info guys! :D

For what it's worth, I agree. I have some experience tuning nitrous in 1000hp+ Mkiv Supras...normally to help spool a large turbo more quickly. Nitrous is nothing more than chemical-based forced induction. If you tune properly for it, including 'net' a/f ratios, and timing adjustments, with proper control systems for the nitrous to include (but not limited to) bottle heater for consistent pressure, a test system to ensure the fuel solenoids are working, rpm limits, WOT switch, progressive/multi-stage control, etc. then nitrous can be just as reliable as any other forced induction system. It's only when folks take short-cuts and (for example) add in a quick-and-dirty 'dry-shot' that problems occur.

92FoxBody 10-11-2010 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pwpanas (Post 88823)
For what it's worth, I agree. I have some experience tuning nitrous in 1000hp+ Mkiv Supras...normally to help spool a large turbo more quickly. Nitrous is nothing more than chemical-based forced induction. If you tune properly for it, including 'net' a/f ratios, and timing adjustments, with proper control systems for the nitrous to include (but not limited to) bottle heater for consistent pressure, a test system to ensure the fuel solenoids are working, rpm limits, WOT switch, progressive/multi-stage control, etc. then nitrous can be just as reliable as any other forced induction system. It's only when folks take short-cuts and (for example) add in a quick-and-dirty 'dry-shot' that problems occur.

Yup yup. I'd be going with a wet shot and I would have a bottle warmer, nitrous progresser etc. It'll kick at 3K and stop at 6,000 (where I shift). The only thing I'm worried about is possible missing a shift and blowing my motor :mad:

pwpanas 10-12-2010 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92FoxBody (Post 88861)
Yup yup. I'd be going with a wet shot and I would have a bottle warmer, nitrous progresser etc. It'll kick at 3K and stop at 6,000 (where I shift). The only thing I'm worried about is possible missing a shift and blowing my motor :mad:

I'm not sure if this will help, but we also add in controls based on boost (forced induction) pressure (psi) within the intake system. Boost pressure drops like a stone if you miss a shift, which causes the spray to stop. I'd bet there are measurable differences in intake vacuum pressure depending upon whether or not your n/a foxbody's engine is under load. If so, you could use this to trigger the spray (eg. via a Hobbes switch).

92FoxBody 10-16-2010 05:43 AM

Thanks for the advice ;)

92FoxBody 11-08-2010 06:38 PM

delete thread please.

pwpanas 11-09-2010 01:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 92FoxBody (Post 89878)
delete thread please.

Why are you requesting the thread delete?


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